5 Reasons Why We Love Aix-en-Provence

Today’s Aix-en-Provence was founded in 122 BC when the Romans moved from Entremont, an oppidum established by the Salyens, a Celtic-Ligurian tribe. The new settlement was Aquae Sextiae (“the waters of Sextius”), a tribute to the highly respected Roman consul Caius Sextius Calvinus. Strategically located, this new city had access to natural water sources. While there are many reasons to visit this city, we have narrowed it down to five reasons we love Aix-en-Provence, which are listed below.

#1 The Fountains

Aix-en-Provence is often associated with the tagline “city of water.” The Romans established Aquae Sextiae in that location due to access to natural water sources, including les Étuves and les Bagniers, which supplied warm water for the Roman thermal baths and domestic needs. By the Middle Ages, there were hundreds of fountains for household use and animal husbandry. Eventually, municipal infrastructure included water and sewage piping to the dwellings, and the fountains slowly disappeared. However, walking around Aix-en-Provence today, you’ll see roughly 30 functioning fountains. Reflecting the city’s prestige at the time, many are decorated.

The most prominent fountain is La Rotonde, one of Aix’s most photographed landmarks. Built in 1860, it once marked the town’s entrance. Today, it stands between the historic sections of Aix and its more contemporary neighbourhoods.

One of La Rotonde’s most striking features is the vast 32-metre basin. In addition, it is adorned with marble statues, often called the Three Graces. They represent Provence’s principal cities, Aix, Avignon, and Marseille. The statue facing the Cours Mirabeau and the Courthouses is called Justice. To its right, looking toward Marseille, stands Agriculture, while the figure facing Avignon is named Fine Arts. There are also sculptures of lions and cupids adorning the fountain, symbolizing the city’s and region’s primary activities.

Self-Guided Walking Tour of Aix-en-Provence

#2 The Art

Aix-en-Provence is a wonderland for art lovers. Besides being the birthplace of renowned painter Paul Cézanne, the city is home to world-class museums and vibrant galleries. Its sun-drenched landscapes and charming Provençal architecture continue to inspire generations of artists. Here are a few highlights.

The Musée Granet, formerly the Museum of Aix, is named after the generous benefactor painter François-Marius Granet. The museum has over 13,000 works of art, including French and Italian paintings from the 14th to 18th centuries and 19th-century paintings by Provençal artists, including Granet.

The museum’s archaeological collection reflects the ancient history of the Mediterranean region. It includes Greco-Roman works, Celto-Ligurian sculptures, and an ancient Egyptian collection.

Whether you’re interested in learning about ancient artifacts or wish to immerse yourself in the beauty of paintings, the Musée Granet is the perfect place to explore history, art, and culture all under one roof.

Aix-en-Provence was home to 19th-century French painter Paul Cézanne (1839-1906). He was a prolific artist. His iconic paintings include still lifes, various landscapes, and over 80 images of Mont Sainte-Victoire. Cézanne’s works, a link between Impressionism and Cubism, significantly influenced many artists such as Matisse and Picasso. Picasso called him “the father of us all.” Today, Cézanne—and the scenery around Aix-en-Provence—continue to inspire artists.

Besides Cézanne’s paintings that hang in galleries and museums, you can learn about Cézanne’s life by walking in his footsteps. Throughout Aix-en-Provence, you’ll find 3,500 pavement markers to follow on a self-guided tour. A free mobile app, Sur Les Pas de Cézanne, provides facts at various points during the tour. The highlights include Cézanne’s childhood homes, favourite cafés, and the Bastide du Jas de Bouffan, where he lived and painted for decades.

©Musée Granet
©Office de Tourisme d’Aix-en-Provence

Jill Steenhuis is one of those modern artists inspired by Cézanne. Jill is an American artist based in Aix-en-Provence. She studied at the Marchutz School of Fine Arts and painted for 14 years at Cézanne’s Château Noir studio. You’ll find her paintings in museums and private collections around the world. Jill offers immersive painting workshops in Provence for artists of all levels. Many of her classes paint “en plein air” in the same landscapes that inspired Cézanne, van Gogh, and Matisse. She arranges all the details for her week-long retreats, from accommodations to supplies, leaving her students free to explore their creativity.

#3 Mont Sainte-Victoire

Mont Sainte-Victoire is a striking limestone mountain to the east of Aix-en-Provence. Sometimes referred to as the sacred mountain, it holds cultural and natural significance. It towers above the surrounding agricultural landscape and has long inspired artists. Paul Cézanne immortalized it in over 80 paintings and watercolours. Today, the mountain continues to inspire painters and photographers.

Because of its natural beauty and biodiversity, Mont Sainte-Victoire attracts hikers and climbers of all levels. Sport and nature enthusiasts can roam scenic trails and visit historic sites like the Saint-Privat Chapel and “Cézanne’s house,” the shelter he used while painting.

©Camille Moirenc

The fertile agricultural land surrounding Mont Sainte-Victoire is a blend of clay, limestone, and sandy soil. The soil, combined with the unique microclimate, makes this region a home to olive groves and the renowned vineyards of the Côteaux d’Aix-en-Provence appellation.

#4 The Markets

If you enjoy markets, you’ll love Aix-en-Provence. At least one market occurs every day of the week, but the larger ones tend to be on Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Saturdays. Most markets are open from 8:00 am until 1:00 pm, so you should arrive early if you want the freshest, most nutritious products.

Place Richelme, located in the heart of the old town near the Hôtel de Ville, hosts a daily market featuring fresh, seasonal produce from local farmers, fishmongers, beekeepers, and cheese makers. It’s one of the best places for local chefs to source ingredients for their daily menus.

Place des Prêcheurs and Place de la Madeleine markets offer produce, food, and housewares, including linens, earthenware, soaps, antiques, and handcrafted Provençal goods. For fresh flowers, head to City Hall (Hôtel de Ville) for the daily flower market. You’ll find everything from locally grown bouquets to imported plants.

Traditional Christmas markets are open from late November until Epiphany (January 6^th). Visitors will find works by local artisans, jewelry, and items from other areas in France, Europe, and beyond. The crisp air, mingled with the warm scent of mulled wine and freshly baked treats, will instantly spark the holiday spirit.

#5 The Squares

Aix-en-Provence has some lovely must-see squares (“places” in French) at the heart of the city’s culture. The Place des Martyrs de la Résistance hosts the world-famous Aix Music Festival and is home to the Tapestry Museum in the former palace of the archbishops of Aix-en-Provence.

©Virginie in Provence

Besides the food market at Place Richelme, you’ll find the original location of the fish and vegetable market, which dates back to 1360. Place des Prêcheurs is home to the Palais de Justice (courthouse), a fountain designed by Jean Pancrace Chastel, the Church of the Madeleine, and a remarkable antiques/flea market on Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Saturdays.

While larger squares often host parades, concerts, festivals, and seasonal markets, the smaller ones are equally worth a visit. Lined with bistros, cafés, and small shops, residents often gather in their local “place” to socialize and share the latest news. Visitors can get a glimpse of authentic Provençal culture. The best part about the squares in Aix-en-Provence is that you can easily walk from one to the next.

Sweet Tastes of Provence

Like many cities, Aix-en-Provence has a signature food: calissons. Calissons are a traditional candy made in Aix since the 14th century. If you like almonds, you will love these sweets.

Calissons d'Aix

A truly enjoyable treat to make and connect with bakers long ago. Patience will be your reward if you can let them sit overnight to set. And while this is a traditional recipe, it is by no means easy to master. So even if it doesn’t look perfect, it will taste just as delicious. Served alongside afternoon tea or at the end of a delicious evening meal, these sweet delicate Calissons will be a welcome addition to your baking repertoire.

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Calissons d'Aix a Sweet Candy

This recipe takes time, but it's a fun culinary project with a sweet result. You need to leave enough time (about a week) for the fruit paste to reach the right consistency.

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Visit a boulanger in Aix-en-Provence and sample some pain au chocolate or pain aux raisin.

Croissants and Pain aux Chocolate

Ok it's not easy to make croissants and pain aux chocolate, but it's a fun and rewarding weekend project.

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Recipe for (Mini) Pains aux Raisins

This recipe makes approximately 30 mini pain aux raisins. There are several steps to prepare these sweet pastries. You need to allow enough time for the dough to rise (twice) and prepare the filling. It's worth the effort! (Please note the metric measurements are the original recipe.)

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Other Typical Dishes in Aix-en-Provence

Daube à la Provençal

A slow cooked beef stew, the Provencal version of the more commonly known Boeuf Bourguignon is called Daube à la Provençal.

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Stuffed Baked Tomatoes

An easy vegetarian dish. Serve as a side or as a main course with other stuffed vegetables. and a salad

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Les Petits Farcis a Vegetarian Version

I’m going to share with you my family’s favourite one. It’s a very simple version, healthy, and vegetarian. Let’s get cooking! To make it easier, choose round shaped vegetables. For the pleasure of the eyes, choose different colour vegetables: tomatoes, round zucchini, peppers, white onions.

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Pizzaladière Provence Pizza

The pizzaladière is a Provençal variation that combines Italy and Provence in a delicious and very simple dish, using the best ingredients you can. Serve with a salad and enjoy with a glass of Mirabeau Classic Rosé! Bon appetit.

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Les Petits Farcis: Stuffed Provencal Vegetables

Like all great recipes, les Petits Farcis has numerous variations. So have fun experimenting with different stuffings and seasonal vegetables.

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Books About Aix-en-Provence

Cézanne: The Rock and Quarry Paintings – by John Elderfield. “A rich vein of the artist’s mature work, depicting the foundations of landscape and place. From the mid-1860s until shortly before his death, Paul Cézanne (1839–1906) created 27 canvases that take rock formations as their principal subjects.”

The Rough Guide to Provence & the Côte d’Azur (Travel Guide with eBook) – by Rough Guides. “This practical travel guide to Provence & the Côte d’Azur features detailed factual travel tips and points-of-interest structured lists of all iconic must-see sights, as well as some off-the-beaten-track treasures. Our itinerary suggestions and expert author picks of things to see and do will make it a perfect companion both, ahead of your trip and on the ground. This Provence & the Côte d’Azur guide book is packed full of details on how to get there and around, pre-departure information and top time-saving tips, including a visual list of things not to miss.”

An Insider’s Guide to Provence – by Keith Van Sickle – Intended as supplemental reference material rather than a guidebook. Fodor’s, The Lonely Planet, and Rick Steeves are among a long list of in-depth guidebooks covering all aspects of travel, including accommodation in Provence. These books are typically updated regularly by teams of on-the-ground resources.

Two Towns in Provence: Map of Another Town and a Considerable Town – by M.K. Fisher – “This volume brings together two delightful books—Map of Another Town and A Considerable Town—by one of our most beloved food and travel writers. In her inimitable style, here M.F.K. Fisher tells the stories—and reveals the secrets—of two quintessential French cities.”

Carolyne Kauser-Abbott

With her camera and laptop close at hand, Carolyne has traded in her business suits for the world of freelance writing and blogging. Her first airplane ride at six months of age was her introduction to the exciting world of travel.

While in Provence, Carolyne can be found hiking with friends, riding the hills around the Alpilles or tackling Mont Ventoux. Her attachment to the region resonates in Perfectly Provence this digital magazine that she launched in 2014. This website is an opportunity to explore the best of the Mediterranean lifestyle (food & wine, places to stay, expat stories, books on the region, travel tips, real estate tips and more), through our contributors' articles.

Carolyne writes a food and travel blog Ginger and Nutmeg. Carolyne’s freelance articles can be found in Global Living Magazine, Avenue Magazine and City Palate (Published Travel Articles).