Roam the Enchanting Provencal Countryside When Visiting Aix-en-Provence
Aix-en-Provence is a moderate-sized city in the Bouches du Rhône department of Provence. Home to Aix-Marseille Université (AMU) and several prestigious Lycées, the city has a dynamic vibe and a long history. Initially settled by the Romans in 122 BC, Aix is one of the most visited cities in Provence. Aix’s urban centre offers much to see. Here is our list of 10 things to see and do, including fountains, plazas, and museums.
However, there are also plenty of reasons to explore the countryside surrounding Aix. Below are some highlights, including Mont Saint Victoire, vineyards, villages, a stop for candy, and, if your timing is right, the lavender fields.
Magical Mont Sainte Victoire
Depending on how you approach Mont Sainte-Victoire, the massif looks like a fortified stone ridge or a sharp triangle pointing skyward. Regardless of the time of day or season, the only certainty is that the mountain, located on the outskirts of Aix-en-Provence, never looks the same twice.
Mont Sainte-Victoire’s limestone ridgeline runs 18km east to west outside Aix-en-Provence. The summit is at 1011 metres, lower than Mont Ventoux, but soars above anything else. Under the Grande Cite de France label, almost 50,000 hectares between Aix-en-Provence and Marseille, including Mont Sainte-Victoire, form the most significant wooded area in the department of Bouches du Rhône. Despite a devastating forest fire in 1989, the mountain remains sacred.
Artists and photographers continue to capture the limestone summit in all its glory. Celebrated and revered, Mont Sainte-Victoire has been a protected natural preserve—a Grand Site de France—since 2004. Explore the mountain by car, on foot, on a bike, or while sipping a glass of wine.
“Everywhere, Mont Sainte-Victoire dominated the landscape. It became his favorite subject: 44 oils and 43 watercolors testify to Cezanne’s fascination of the mountain.” ~ Aix-en-Provence Tourism Office.
Mont Saint Victoire – Artists and Hiking Trails
Visit the Coteaux d’AixVineyards
Agricultural land surrounds Mont Sainte-Victoire. The combination of clay, limestone, and sandy soil is a terroir where grapevines and olives flourish. The vineyards surrounding Mont Sainte-Victoire fall under the Coteaux d’Aix-en-Provence appellation, which includes the red grape varietals Cinsaut, Counoise, Grenache, Mourvèdre, Syrah, and several white grapes. This article by Provence WineZine provides additional detail on the AOC.
Coteaux d’Aix-en-Provence – AOP Coteaux d’Aix-en-Provence received its designation in 1985. It is the second-largest appellation in Provence and the furthest west. The region is named after Aix-en-Provence but comprises 49 towns dispersed among the vineyards. Although it has a typical Mediterranean climate of long, dry summers, spring and fall storms bring significant rainfall in those seasons. However, the Mistral winds dry the soil relatively quickly, which prevents the vines from fungal rot.
In this appellation, rosé is the predominant wine (86%). Red wines comprise only about 8% of production, while white wines comprise 6%. AOP Coteaux d’Aix-en-Provence wine blends must contain at least 50% of the main varietals. The region produces dry wines (4g sugar/L). However, the rosés are light, fruity, and floral, while well-balanced reds have floral notes that evolve into richer flavours on aging. Coteaux d’Aix-en-Provence white wines tend to be fresh, fruity, and floral.
Bob Dylan’s Rail Car ©Chateau la Coste
One of Aix-en-Provence’s most fantastic vineyard attractions lies 16 km (10 miles) from town. It’s a winery, art centre, culinary hub, and a beautiful place to stay. Château La Coste is a vineyard set in a lovely hilly landscape dotted with world-class architecture and works of art. Irish businessman Patrick (Paddy) McKillen bought the existing La Coste winery in 2002 near the village of Le Puy Ste Réparade to indulge his two passions: winemaking and creating a centre for contemporary art. Read more about Château La Coste here and here.
French language teacher Virginie van der Wees and her family live in Rousset, a small village outside Aix-en-Provence. Book an immersion holiday; she might even take you to her favourite vineyards near Aix.
Guide: Provence Wine Regions and Vineyards
Villages near Aix
Puyricard is famous for its chocolate factory! It’s a small, quiet village surrounded by vineyards and conveniently located a short drive from Aix-en-Provence. The market is on Friday mornings, and like most towns, it is lovely to visit the stands and chat with the merchants each week. Just 10 kilometres from the centre of Aix, Puyricard is part of the greater metro area, with the benefits of centralized services such as public transport. The town is ideal for commuters who wish to live in the countryside close to urban amenities. Puyricard retains its village feel with a weekly market and the remains of medieval construction.
©Virginie en Provence
Rousset is a small, quiet Provencal village about 20 minutes from the centre of Aix-en-Provence. Vineyards surround the town, and residents can enjoy views of Mont Sainte Victoire from everywhere in town.
Puyloubier sits on the eastern flank of Mont Sainte Victoire. The town is in the heart of the AOP Côtes de Provence Sainte-Victoire, surrounded by 1000 hectares of vines, and has a population of only 1,783 (2021). Although Puyloubier is near the large urban centres of Aix-en-Provence and Marseille, it is a rural community that forms part of the Grand Site Sainte-Victoire. Puyloubier has a small old town and a museum dedicated to the French Foreign Legion – Musée de l’Uniforme – Musée de la Légion Etrangère.
Visit a Candy Factory
Le Roy René factory needs 200 metric tons of almonds annually to produce calissons d’Aix and nougat. As almonds are one of the key ingredients in these typically Provencal sweets, a reliable supply chain is critical to the operation. In 2016, 300 almond trees, which included 22 varieties, were planted around the Roy René Museum and fabrication centre. The garden is a tribute to the almond grows of Provence to rejuvenate the local industry. Interestingly, not all the trees have survived, which speaks to the difficulty of growing almonds in Provence.
©Roy René
While you are at Le Roy René, visit the garden. Public education is the primary goal of establishing the almond grove and the bastide garden (lavender, herbs, roses, and other local plants). Located just outside of Aix-en-Provence, visitors are encouraged to explore the three (3) hectares of the garden – les Jardins du Roy René.
Lavender Fields
Terre Ugo is a 7-hectare family farm located on the outskirts of Aix in Puyricard. In 2017, the family planted 30,000 organic Lavandin Grosso plants on a portion of the property. Now, during the peak of the flowering season, you can visit Terre Ugo to walk through the fields, take a workshop, have a meal, or shop in the boutique.
7 Places to See Lavender in Provence
Terre Ugo ©Camille Moirenc
Provencal Countryside Near Aix-en-Provence
Of course, this article only begins to scratch the surface of what there is to do near Aix-en-Provence. Feel free to send us more ideas for future articles.
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