Christmas in Provence and the 13 Desserts

“Les treize desserts” is an old Christmas tradition in Provence. Thirteen desserts are enjoyed after Christmas Eve dinner, traditionally representing Jesus and his twelve Apostles. Each guest must eat all thirteen desserts to guarantee good luck for the year to come. There must be a minimum of 13 desserts, but we have decided to add an extra for you! Check out our 14 desserts here and for the Maison Mirabeau photos.

Holiday Traditions in Provence

The holiday period in Provence is loaded with symbolism. The traditional festivities begin on December 4th with the feast of  Saint Barbara (Sainte Barbe). On this day, families “plant” little packets of wheat on cotton or paper towels to germinate for the Christmas table.

Families gather on Christmas Eve for le Gros Souper (the big dinner) in Provence. The typical December 24th meal is meatless, with seven fish and vegetable dishes. Although, on the lighter side, these dishes are not insignificant. These seven plates might include omelettes, salted cod and potatoes – brandade de morue, ratatouille, and a local garlic soup. The number of dishes represents Mary’s seven sorrows.

Brandade de Morue

This recipe for a salt cod (morue) gratin is easy to make. Serve this seafood dish with a green salad and some crusty bread. The key to the recipe is allowing for the overnight soaking period for the cod, to remove preservative salt.

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Provençal Ratatouille Recipe

The traditional ratatouille recipe calls for vegetables to be browned in olive oil in a frying pan, each one separately, without peeling them at all. All the vegetables are cooked with their skins to preserve the maximum taste. Then, they are mixed and confit together in an earthenware casserole.

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Cod with Tapenade Crust and Rosé Braised Fennel

This recipe has a few steps. However, as long as you prepare the fennel and black olive tapenade in advance, the cod takes no time to cook.

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Following midnight mass, it is time for the 13 desserts. The amount represents the number of participants at the Last Supper; Jesus and his 12 apostles. Although the exact make-up of les treize desserts is not prescriptive, there are a few rules. The assortment of sweets generally falls into four categories. These are dried fruit and nuts, fresh seasonal fruit, fruit preserved in sugar syrup and sweetened bread. Typically the 13 desserts are enjoyed after mass. However, the selection remains in reach for the next three days until December 27th.

The Sweet 13

The Four Beggars: Four monastic religious orders are represented by dried fruit (figs, raisins, apricots) and nuts (walnuts, almonds, hazelnuts).

Almonds = Carmelites
Dried Figs = Franciscans
Raisins = Dominicans
Walnuts or Hazelnuts = Augustines

Good and Evil: There are always two kinds of nougat representing good (white) and evil (black).

Calissons d'Aix

A truly enjoyable treat to make and connect with bakers long ago. Patience will be your reward if you can let them sit overnight to set. And while this is a traditional recipe, it is by no means easy to master. So even if it doesn’t look perfect, it will taste just as delicious. Served alongside afternoon tea or at the end of a delicious evening meal, these sweet delicate Calissons will be a welcome addition to your baking repertoire.

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Quince Paste - Pâte de Fruit de Coings from Provence

Quince resembles large, tough pears. The cooking time for this recipe will vary depending on the fruit. Serve quince paste (pâte de fruit de coings) with a selection of hard cheeses for an appetizer or an alternative to a sweet dessert.

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Candied Clementines (Clementines Confits) with Moroccan spices

This dessert can be made all year! When I am in France, I buy clementines from Corsica. I can find clementines (sometimes known as Cuties in the U.S.) throughout the year in Los Angeles. It’s a simple dessert that can be served by itself or cut in julienne strips and served on top of ice cream, yogurt or a pound cake (The French version of a pound cake is Quatre Quart)! Please note that the clementines will be a burnt orange colour once they are candied because of the Moroccan spices.

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Fresh fruit: the citrus is in season at this time of the year with juicy clementines from Corsica.
Pompe à l’huile: a sweet bread made with olive oil and orange blossom. It is customary that pieces are broken by hand, never with a knife.
Navettes: these dry biscuits are the culinary representation of the modest boat believed to have transported St Lazarus and the two “Marys,” Saint Mary Magdalene and Saint Martha to Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer some 2000 years ago. Traditional navettes from Marseille are 7+ cm (2.5+ inches) long, tapered at both ends, and flavoured with l’eau de fleur d’ oranger (orange flower water).
Dates: symbolise the arrival of Christ from the Middle East.
Chocolate: this shouldn’t need an explanation.

Enjoy the festivities!