Things I Wish I Knew Before Spending a Month in Provence

I’ve been slow-travelling full-time for over five years now, spending at least a month in each place I visit. And while I’ve explored everywhere from Thailand to New Zealand and beyond, there was something about Provence that felt entirely different. I’d been to France many times before, but Provence stood apart.

I knew it would be beautiful: the lavender fields, the vineyards, the sun-drenched stone villages. But I didn’t expect to fall so deeply, so quickly, for the rhythm of life here. I spent a month living in a cottage in the Luberon Valley during the quiet shoulder season, and in that time, Provence taught me more than I expected. These are the things I wish I knew before arriving — not to plan better, but to appreciate it more.

1. I Didn’t Know I’d Fall in Love with Provence So Fast

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I’ve spent a month in dozens of places over the years, and most of them take a little time to open up; it’s a slow relationship. But Provence? It was love at first sight.

From the moment I arrived, something just clicked. Biking through vineyards with a picnic tucked in my basket, pulling over for a glass of rosé grown just down the road, standing at the edge of a hilltop village as the sun set over golden stone and olive trees — it felt like I’d stepped into the dream version of France I’d always hoped existed.

It’s everything people say it is… and then somehow more. The beauty isn’t just on the surface. It’s in the rhythm of daily life, in the smell of lavender growing along the trails, in the sound of church bells echoing through sleepy towns on a Sunday. I didn’t just enjoy my time here; I fell thoroughly and quickly for the place.

I thought Provence would be beautiful. I didn’t realize it would become one of the hardest places I’ve ever had to leave.

2. Autumn in Provence Is a Dream – But Timing Matters

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I’ve always been a fan of shoulder season travel: fewer crowds, softer light, and prices that don’t make your eyes water. Provence in the fall is exactly that. I arrived in mid-October and stayed through the first half of November, and for most of that time, it was absolute magic.

October gave me warm, golden days that felt tailor-made for biking through vineyards, lingering at outdoor cafés, and strolling quiet village streets. It was the kind of weather where you could pack a picnic, hop on your bike, and not come home until sunset, with a few glasses of local wine along the way.

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But even in October, you start to notice that some seasonal businesses have already closed. By early November, it becomes more than “some.” Many restaurants, shops, and even village bakeries shut down for the season, and the weather shifts quickly. By the time I left, Provence had gone from a warm autumn haze to brisk mornings, early sunsets, and shuttered storefronts.

Still, the trade-off is worth considering. Would you rather have everything open but share it with the summer crowds, or enjoy the peace, even if it means missing out on a few cafés and market days? For me, the stillness of fall in Provence was part of the charm. But it’s something I wish I’d known more clearly before arriving, so I could’ve left before November.

Visitor’s Guide to Luberon Villages

3. Slowing Down Is What Provence Is All About

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If there’s one lesson Provence teaches you, whether you want it or not, it’s to slow down.

Coming from a fast-paced digital nomad lifestyle, I usually spend my first few days in a new destination getting my bearings: planning what to see, where to eat, and how to get around. But in Provence, I learned pretty quickly that the best moments weren’t the ones I planned. They were the ones I allowed to unfold on their own.

Shops close for long lunches. Markets open early and wind down by midday. Sundays? Nearly everything stops. And instead of fighting it, I learned to lean in. I’d sit with my coffee longer, let conversations stretch, and wander village streets without an agenda. I stopped trying to do Provence and instead started to live it; slowly, intentionally, with space for the small stuff.

Provence isn’t the kind of place that rewards rushing. In fact, if you rush, you’ll miss the best of it: the everyday beauty, the stillness, and the subtle rhythms that make this region feel so special.

4. Don’t Skip the Markets

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Before I arrived, I thought the markets in Provence were mostly for tourists: colourful stalls, lavender sachets, maybe a few good photo ops. I was wrong.

The markets here are the heartbeat of local life. They’re where people shop, catch up with neighbours, and gather over morning coffees while vendors set up their stands. During my month in Provence, I found myself building my week around them. Tuesday? Gordes. Thursday? Bonnieux. Weekends? L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue, if you’re in the mood for antiques after your croissant.

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But if there’s one market that truly shouldn’t be missed, it’s the one in Aix-en-Provence.

Aix is known for its daily markets, but the Saturday market is the biggest and best in the region. It fills the town with colour, scent, and energy: produce, flowers, crafts, clothing, cheeses, spices, street performers, and everything in between. Even if you’re not staying in Aix, it’s worth planning a day trip to experience it. It’s the kind of place where you go for vegetables and leave with a tablecloth, a wedge of cheese, a bottle of rosé, and more than you need.

5. Staying in the countryside Is the Perfect Provence Experience

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There’s a lot to love about the towns and villages of Provence. Their charm is undeniable. But after spending a month in the region, I’m convinced the real magic happens when you stay just outside them.

I based myself in a countryside cottage surrounded by vineyards, olive trees, and views of hilltop villages rising in the distance. Every morning, I could set off in a new direction to explore: Gordes, Roussillon, Bonnieux. Every evening, I returned to complete stillness, sunset light, and a glass of wine from just down the road.

While many visitors choose to stay in the villages themselves (and there’s nothing wrong with that), I highly recommend staying in the countryside if you want to soak in the Provençal lifestyle truly. Wake up to golden light through the shutters. Take your coffee outside with no sound but the breeze. End the day on a patio or terrace, wine in hand, wrapped in the quiet that makes you forget what time it is.

That, to me, is the perfect Provence experience. Not rushing from place to place, but living slowly, with beauty all around you.

Conclusion

Provence surprised me, not because it was beautiful (I expected that), but because it invited me to slow down and really live in the moment. It’s one thing to visit a place and check it off your list. It’s another to stay long enough for it to start changing your rhythm. That’s what happened here.

From quiet mornings in the countryside to market days that shaped my week, everything in Provence nudged me toward appreciating what was right in front of me. If you’re planning a trip here, I hope these reflections help you experience it more deeply. Not just as a destination, but as a feeling you can carry with you long after you leave.

Guest Writer

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About Hayden: Hayden is a full-time traveller and travel blogger who has spent the past five years living one month at a time in destinations around the world — from Thailand to New Zealand, the Caribbean to France. After spending a month slow-travelling through Provence while crafting his Provence travel series, he quickly realized it was one of the most magical places he’s visited — peaceful, romantic, and full of countryside charm. You can follow Hayden’s travels through Provence and around the world at Travel With Hayden.

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