The Alpilles Vineyards in Provence for Exquisite Wines and Scenic Views

Running east to west in Provence’s Bouches-du-Rhône department, the Alpilles (“small Alps”) is a mountain range, protected park, and agricultural area. Its rugged, arid alpine terroir suits growing grapes and olives on its flanks. Below, we cover ideas for touring the Alpilles vineyards in Provence, many of which also produce olive oil. Enjoy the wines and the views!

Alpilles Scenic Views

This 30-kilometre stretch of jagged limestone cliffs and scrub brush is a protected regional park infused with the aromas of wild herbes de Provence. Established in 2007, the Parc Naturel Régional des Alpilles covers the mountain range and some surrounding land. As a protected natural area, there are restrictions on construction and park usage.

The massif’s summit is only 498m (1,634 ft) at its highest point. Yet, the gnarled limestone peaks reaching Provence’s blue heavens are an arresting sight, making these hills appear much higher. North of the Alpilles, the soil is suitable for fruit orchards, including stone fruit, apples, and pears. To the south of the mountains, the land, although once quite marshy, is well-suited for grazing sheep and goats and growing olives.

Guide to the Villages of the Alpilles

Sports in the Alpilles

Dotted with rugged trails, the Alpilles is a paradise for hikers and mountain bikers. Climbers love the craggy cliffs, too. A series of rolling hills offers excellent training for road cyclists looking for vertical challenges. Centuries of wind currents carved the jagged mountain ridge, a magnet for glider pilots.

On the eastern edge, the Alpilles start at the Durance River and the town of Orgon and end in Fontvielle on the west. The beautiful thing about this 30-kilometre stretch of mountains is that you might never tire of the opportunities to explore on foot. The Grande Randonnée (GR) #6 traces the summit from Tarascon to Aureille. Look for red and white flashes to follow sections of this multi-stage trail.

Other walking trails marked by yellow paint crisscross the farmland surrounding the peaks. These routes are shorter but no less scenic than the high-level trails. Look for the trail markers from the centre of most Alpilles villages.

Favourite Hikes in the Alpilles

Historical Hills

Artifacts from human settlements discovered in these hills date back to the Neolithic era, and the range is the result of millennia of continuous geological evolution.

Glanum, a Roman oppidum protected by its fortified walls, once housed a flourishing community. The settlement stood on a hillside in the shadow of the rocky crests of the Alpilles slopes. The Franks destroyed Glanum in 260 AD. The population was forced to resettle on the valley floor, giving rise to St Remy de Provence.

Evidence from archaeological excavations, which started in 1921, confirms that Glanum was built in three phases. Glanum I, the initial settlement by a Celtic tribe, the Salyens, dates from the Iron Age, about 500 BC. Their choice of the site Glanum was deliberate, with easy access to water, building materials and higher ground offering some protection from attackers. The Celtics believed that the spring provided healing powers. Read more about Glanum and the beautiful views from this historical spot.

AOC Les Baux Alpilles Vineyards

Launched in 1995, Appellation d’Origine Protégée (AOP) Les Baux de Provence was a bold step for a group of winemakers. They joined forces to carve out a unique identity in the ocean of, at that time, mediocre Provencal wine. These wineries were previously under the umbrella of the AOP Coteaux d’Aix-en-Provence since 1972, and the les Baux vintners felt that their production was blurred in the vast volume produced by that AOP. Protected Designation of Origin Les Baux de Provence was re-established in 1995, reverting to the original appellation formed in 1956. Today, most vineyards in the Alpilles produce AOP wines that are 100% organic.

Additional read: The Lady Wine Makers of Les Baux de Provence

Photo: ©Herve FABRE

The Park and its unscathed terroir are why the vineyard owners felt their wines would be better served under the AOP Les Baux de Provence banner. Some 20+ years into the experiment, there is no question that the wines are of a quality that grabs your attention. Béatrice Joyce (she and her husband own Domaine Dalmeran) pointed out that each vineyard within the AOP is, in reality, a small universe of wine with its particular terroir and geographical aspect within the Alpilles. Unlike other wine-growing areas in France, such as Burgundy and Bordeaux, the vineyards in the Alpilles are insulated operations.

We invite you to take a wine road trip through the Alpilles and beyond, where you can sip and sample the magic elixirs crafted by these winemakers of the Vins des Baux de Provence.

Alpilles Vineyards South Side

Château d’Estoublon has had several owners and a long history of organized wine-growing, beginning with the Seigneurie du Mont Paon, who managed a large swath of farmland under the command of the Counts of Les Baux. Read the full story of “le Grand Mas” (the large house) and the reasons for visiting here. One of the largest estates in the Alpilles, this 200-hectare property has 120 hectares of olive trees (five classic olive varietals) and 20 hectares dedicated to organic grapevines. Their exquisite boutique has a collection of gourmet foods to accompany the wine and olive oil.

Château d’Estoublon
Route de Maussane
13990 Fontvieille

Mas de la Dame

Caroline Missoffe and her sister Anne Poniatowski have operated this 300-hectare property since 1995. These two ladies are the fourth generation of the Faye family to run this vineyard, which is believed to be one of the first commercially established operations in the region. A charming boutique at Mas de la Dame offers products from 58 hectares of vineyards and 28 hectares of olive groves.

Mas de la Dame
2200 Route des Alpilles
13520 Les Baux-de-Provence
Telephone: +33 (0)4 90 54 32 24
Open daily.

Photo: ©Mas de la Dame

Mas Sainte Berthe

Documentation from 1539 references a chapel (dedicated to Ste Berthe) on Lord de Mollières’ property. Mas Sainte Berthe was an old pilgrimage site where believers would assemble twice a year to drink water from the natural spring in hopes of relief from their fevers. Now, it is a gathering place for wine drinkers who wish to sample wines crafted from the vines planted in the 1950s by the David family (their first vintage was 1976). Mas Sainte Berthe has 21 hectares of vines and 5 hectares of olive groves.

Mas Sainte Berthe
Chemin de Sainte Berthe
13520 Les Baux-de-Provence
Telephone: +33 (0)4 90 54 39 01
The boutique and tasting room are open daily.
Fun tip: Take a photo of Les Baux de Provence from the wine bottle.

Domaine de Lauzières

Thirty years after their father had left the estate to the Boyer sisters in his will, the vineyard required revitalization. Partners Gérard Pillon and Jean-Daniel Schlaepfer purchased this dishevelled plantation from the Boyer family and began the regeneration process. A full-scale modernization project at Domaine de Lauzières included replacing grapevines in sections, road grading, building renovations and other restoration projects. In 2011, Gérard’s son Christophe took over the reins of the operation. The 16th-century Huguenots who took refuge in the Alpilles would not recognize this state-of-the-art winery but might have approved the organic and biodynamic wines produced from the 30 hectares of vines. There are also 25 hectares of olive groves with 4,500 trees on the property.

Domaine de Lauzières
Lieu-Dit le Destet
13890 Mouriès
Telephone: +33 (0)4 90 47 62 88
The tasting room is open daily.

L’Affectif

This wine is a passion project of Jean-André Charial, who has been involved in his family’s Relais & Château property Oustau de Baumanière since 1967. This fantastic 5-star property was once an abandoned 16th-century farmhouse. M. Charial and his wife Geneviève have subsequently expanded their hospitality business well beyond the tiny village of Les Baux and created a luxury brand ‘Les Maisons de Baumanière.’ In his limited spare time, M. Charial might be inspecting his grapevines in the Alpilles and producing roughly 8,000 bottles of l’Affectif, his biodynamic wine.

L’AffectifMas de Baumanière
13520 Les Baux-de-Provence

Mas de Gourgonnier

This property has 45 hectares of grapevines, including roughly 20 hectares of olive groves, and has been run by the Cartier family for several generations. It is a sheltered estate in the core of the Alpilles that once served as the farm for the secluded l’Abbaye de Pierredon (now its neighbour) and provided the nutritional needs of the monks. In the 1950s, the first commercial vines were planted, and the cave was established. Luc and Frédéri joined their father, Nicolas, in the business, and more recently, Eve (Luc’s daughter) joined the team. Mas de Gourgonnier practices organic agricultural methodology and limits the wine product to 40 hl/ha to ensure top-quality wine.

Mas de Gourgonnier
Le destet, D78,
13890 Mouriès
Telephone: +33 (0)4 90 47 50 45
Open daily during the high season.

Photo: ©Herve FABRE

Abbaye Sainte-Marie de Pierredon

This property has a long history, beginning in Roman times with a settlement near a natural spring. Late in the 11th century, a church was built on a rise in the Alpilles near the earlier Roman settlement. The location has a long and, at times, violent history. The priory was deconsecrated in 1550. There have been many owners over the centuries, and luckily, the buildings have been spared from demolition and even fire. Most recently, starting in 2001, the owners restored structures, built a state-of-the-art winemaking facility, and planted new vines and olive groves. These organic wines are available for purchase at many locations in France, including several boutiques in St Remy de Provence. There is also an impressive collection of contemporary art sculptures on the property. As a note, the wine labels represent stained glass church windows from the Middle Ages.

Abbaye Sainte-Maries de Pierredon @Domaine de Pierredon
13890 Mouriès
Telephone: +33 (0)4 90 18 47 09
Make a reservation in advance for the tasting room.

Alpilles Northern Vineyards

Domaine Château Dalmeran

One of the two vineyards owned by Neil and Béatrice Joyce – the sister property is Châteauneuf du Pape. This couple is forging a strong link between all the pleasures surrounding wine – food, music, art and socializing. There is an annual cooking contest where young regional chefs are invited to marry their culinary passion with the wines of Château Dalmeran; they have one month to prepare for the event before the judging begins. Producing wine from 11 hectares of vines, the domain also has 700 olive trees, and they invite you to spend an hour, an afternoon or a jazz-filled evening at Château Dalmeran. The Domaine also has a collection of contemporary art pieces in plein air that you are welcome to visit. In addition, they have begun producing a gin and a brandy that is aged for five years in white wine barrels.

Domaine Château Dalmeran
45 Avenue Notre-Dame-Du-Château
13103 Saint-Etienne-du-Grès
Telephone: +33 (0)4 90 49 04 04
The tasting room is closed on Sundays and Mondays. It is open all year, but the hours change with the seasons. Please check the website before visiting. You are welcome to walk through the vines or reserve a ride on the domain’s electric cart for a maximum of six people.

Photo: ©Chateau Dalmeran

Domaine de Trévallon

Almost halfway between St-Rémy-de-Provence and Sainte-Étienne-du-Grès, Domaine de Trevallon is renowned for producing award-winning wine. The Domaine de Trévallon vines cover 17 hectares on the northern slopes of the Alpilles. Most of the vineyard (15 hectares) is dedicated to cabernet sauvignon and syrah grapes. Marsanne and roussane grow on the remaining two (2) hectares.

Domaine de Trévallon
13103 Saint-Étienne-du-Grès
Visits to the vineyard are limited and must be booked a month in advance.

Domaine Milan

This family-run vineyard is located just outside of St Remy de Provence. The vines are in the Alpilles, but Henri Milan is a trendsetter winemaker who continues experimenting with grape varieties and natural techniques. The wine is available online or at the boutique on-site.

Domaine Milan
Via Aurelia – La Galine
13210 – Saint Remy de Provence
Telephone: +33 (0) 4 90 92 12 52
Tastings must be booked in advance.
Closed on Sundays.

Domaine de Terres Blanches

This vineyard is so bathed in the blinding summer sun that the soil almost appears white. Located on the north side of the Alpilles, this 33-hectare vineyard focuses exclusively on organic, biodynamic wines. Noël Michelin would be impressed by the neat rows of mature vines in the vineyard he acquired in 1968. It would have been back-breaking work for man and mule to remove the scrub brush (garrigue) and pines from his purchased property. The winery building was built in 1973, and the estate has been following organic farming methodology. The property changed hands in 2012, and the new owners (from Alsace) continue the tradition of blending wines using grapes from the region – grenache, syrah and mourvèdre. In total, the estate grows 12 red and wine grape varieties.

Domaine de Terres Blanches
Route de Cavaillon RD99
13210 Saint-Rémy-de-Provence
Telephone +33 (0)4 90 95 91 66
The tasting room is open daily.

Château Romanin is pressed up against the stone cliffs of the Alpilles. Today’s view of the glider aerodrome and north-facing vista would have been strategically chosen when the 13th-century castle was built. Now in ruins, this château was inhabited by the Templars, operating as a Medieval site of “courtly love.” The 58 hectares of vines, four (4) hectares of olive groves and a sprinkling of almond trees continue to benefit from the favourable weather and solar aspects that marked the passage of time between bi-annual solstices and lunar movements long ago.

Château Romanin
Route de Cavaillon
13210 Saint-Rémy-de-Provence
Telephone: +33 (0)4 90 92 69 57
Closed on Sundays.
Visit the boutique to sample their wine. They offer guided tours of the cave that must be booked in advance.

Photo: ©Chateau Romanin

Domaine Hauvette

This vineyard faces the mistral winds head-on with its northerly aspect. It is a small 14-hectare vineyard, but the wines are exceptional, just like their winemaker’s. Dominique Hauvette owns and operates the vineyard. Her first harvest was in 1988, when she had only a few hectares of vines. A stone from the Pont du Gard marks the vineyard. It symbolizes Roman strength and engineering spirit, which parallels this award-winning winemaker’s approach to organic farming.

Domaine Hauvette
Quartier Haute Galine
2946 Ancienne Voie Aurelia
13210 Saint-Rémy-de-Provence
Telephone: +33 (0)4 90 92 03 90
By appointment only.

Domaine de Métifiot

This 20-hectare vineyard is near Glanum and Saint Paul de Mausole in St Remy de Provence. A contemporary building houses the boutique, a state-of-the-art cellar, and a production area. The owners, Benoît and Laurence Bateman, began the project in 2016 with teh intent of producing only organic products. Domaine de Métifiot produces wines that follow the AOC Les Baux criteria and a line of IGP wines. In addition, they have some interesting mono-cépage wines that are less typical of this winemaking region.

Domaine de Métifiot
Voie Communale des Carrières,
13210 Saint-Rémy-de-Provence
Telephone: +33 (0)4 90 95 94 35
Closed on Sundays.

Alpilles Eastern Vinyards

Domaine de Valdition

This vineyard, located between Eygaliéres and Orgon, is in the Côteaux d’Aix en Provence AOP. Domaine de Caldition is a large estate with 240 hectares of land where they grow grapes and olives. There are  90 hectares of grapevines, including ten grape varietals, from which they produce red, white, and rosé wines. The olive oil follows the AOP Vallée des Baux de Provence appellation guidelines. Watch for special events throughout the year and visit their boutique for a selection of the region’s gift items and gourmet treats.

Domaine de Valdition
Route d’Eygalières
13660 Orgon
Telephone: +33 (0)4 90 73 08 12
Open daily in high season (May through September); otherwise, closed on Sundays.

Reasons to Visit Eygalières

Domaine de la Vallongue

This vineyard pays homage to the long Roman road from Rome to Spain – Vallongue represents a long valley. The owners of this 38-hectare property have practised organic farming since 1985. In what was once a place for sheep grazing and hunting stands a striking winery and boutique – a place to sample their wine and estate olive oil.

Domaine de la Vallongue
Route de Mouriés
13810 Eygalières
Telephone: +33 (0)4 90 95 91 70
Open daily.

Information for Wine Touring

Les Vignerons des Baux-de-Provence (website)
AOP Les Baux de Provence
Telephone: +33 (0)4 90 92 25 01

Parc Naturel Régional des Alpilles (website)
Maison du Parc des Alpilles
2 boulevard Marceau
13210 Saint-Rémy-de-Provence
Telephone: +33 (0)4 90 90 44 00

Image credits: All photos were received from and published with the permission of ROUGE GRANIT, AOP Les Baux de Provence or as marked above.