Magnetic Aix-en-Provence is one of France’s wealthier cities, with a long history of civilization and a roster of distinguished inhabitants. However, when visiting the “city of art and water” for the first time, it’s hard to know where to start, so we have created a city guide for your visit.
Roman Aix-en-Provence
The Romans understood the need for freshwater for a settlement to thrive and survive. They abandoned the hilltop oppidum of Entremont, which was established by the Salyens, a Celtic-Ligurian tribe (180-170 BC). In 122 BC, a new community was named Aquae Sextiae, the waters of Sextius, a tribute to the highly respected Roman consul Caius Sextius Calvinus. Strategically located, this new city had access to natural water sources, including les Etuves and les Bagniers, which supplied warm water for the Roman thermal baths. The remains of these ancient pools are at the site of a modern, luxurious spa, the Thermes Sextius.
Thermes Sextius
55 Av. des Thermes
13100 Aix-en-Provence
They offer a full range of spa and beauty services.
Aix: The City of Water
Known as the city of water, Aix-en-Provence is where the Romans settled due to ready access to natural springs. As the town began to take shape during the Middle Ages, there were hundreds of fountains for domestic use. About 30 fountains remain; although beautifully ornamented, they no longer serve practical functionality. These fountains are at intersections, in squares and even in some hidden corners of Aix.
La Rotonde, the largest fountain, dates from 1860 and once marked the city’s entrance. Even today, La Rotonde is one of Aix’s most recognizable and photographed sights. It is also called the Fountain of the Three Graces because of the three marble figures that decorate the crown. The three statues represent the principal cities of Provence, Aix, Avignon and Marseille. The statues are named Justice (facing the Cours Mirabeau and the Courthouse), Agriculture (oriented towards Marseille) and Fine Arts (looking towards Avignon).
Fontaine des Augustins is in Place des Augustins, a busy plaza surrounded by restaurants with terraces.
Fontaine d’Albertas—To reach Place d’Albertas walk up Rue Espariat from Place des Augustins. This cobblestoned plaza, a national monument since 2000, takes its name from the Albertas family from Alba, Italy. The original Fontaine d’Albertas, installed in 1862, no longer worked by 1911.
Fontaine Sanglier—A fountain is decorated with a wild boar in a small enclave called La Place aux Herbes near Place Richelme.
Hotel de Ville—Constructed in 1756 and listed as a historical monument in 1905, the fountain in front of the Hôtel de Ville is known as the Four Seasons.
Food Lover’s Aix
There is a market every day of the week in Aix-en-Provence. French language teacher Virginie writes that larger markets occur every Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday morning. Shop for pottery, Provencal tablecloths, linens, food, spices, clothes and even soap at Cours Mirabeau and Place du Palais de Justice markets. Other fruit and vegetable stalls can be found on Place Richelme, next to the Post Office, which is in the old grain market. A flower market also occurs in the Place de l’Hôtel de Ville three times a week. Susan Gish shares her local’s tips for shopping at the markets of Aix-en-Provence.
Guide to Truffle Markets in Provence
Art in Aix-en-Provence
As the birthplace of master painter Paul Cèzanne, Aix-en-Provence has several museums and exhibition spaces worth visiting. A day in Aix-en-Provence would not be complete without learning about French artist and post-Impressionist painter Paul Cezanne. The 18th-century country house, Jas de Bouffan, was the Cezanne family home for 40 years. The spacious grounds include a garden with ponds, fountains, and sculptures.
Bastide du Jas de Bouffan
17 route de Galice
13100 Aix-en-Provence
Reopening in 2025
“In The Steps of Cézanne” is a self-guided walking tour developed by the Office of Tourism. Follow the bronze “C” plaques implanted into the sidewalks. They mark many places he lived, went to school, visited family, or met with his contemporaries.
Artists and art lovers tour Cezanne’s studio on Lauves Hill, above the city. During the last two years of his life, Cézanne worked every morning in this peaceful atelier (workshop). He created dozens of paintings that are now displayed in galleries and museums worldwide.
Atelier de Cezanne
9, avenue Paul Cézanne
13090 Aix-en-Provence
Unique Château Noir: Aix-based artist Jill Steenhuis shared the following. Château Noir is a special place where one feels the presence of Cezanne. The location radiates the authenticity of Provence and its history back to Roman times. It is untouched by modern comforts and conveniences, unspoilt by tourism and expectations of how things should be – instead; it is true “nature dans son jus.” The pistachio tree in the courtyard that Cezanne painted in 1895 & 1896 is still there, and the millstones are still in place just as they were when Cezanne painted them. Read more about this inspirational location outside of Aix-en-Provence.
Visible from the Autoroute A8, the Fondation Vasarely is a contemporary glass structure with black-and-white cubes. Designed by the artist, he inaugurated the gallery in 1976. Sadly, capital building improvements were delayed for years due to a lack of funding. However, the Fondation Vasarely received funds for much-needed building infrastructure in recent years. There are 42 monumental works of Victor Vasarely on display and some smaller installations. The Fondation is well worth a visit.
Fondation Vasarely
1 Avenue Marcel Pagnol,
13090 Aix-en-Provence
Closed on Mondays and Tuesdays
Parking is available onsite
Audio guides are available for a small charge
Guided tours can be arranged in advance
Hôtel de Caumont Art Centre once a Baroque-style mansion that had no equivalent in Aix-en-Provence. It was the largest private property, the only residence with a gala entranceway and a Versailles-style private garden. Hôtel de Caumont pays homage to the legacy M. Réauville constructed, with his cursive initials “RR” found throughout the property and his family’s coat of arms on the facade. The doors to the Caumont Centre d’Art opened after 26.6 million Euros (10 million for land acquisition and 12.6 million for construction) and an 18-month restoration project. The attention to detail and historical relevance are unmistakable in each of the rooms refurbished under the direction of Mireille Pellen (Architecture du Patrimonie).
Hôtel de Caumont Art Centre
3 Rue Joseph Cabassol,
13100 Aix-en-Provence
Open daily
Buying tickets in advance is recommended
Musée Granet is a Fine Arts and Archaeological museum in the building previously used by the Priors of St. John of Malta. The museum is home to a few paintings by Cézanne and drawings and engravings, including The Bathers (1865) and The Portrait of Zola (1863). In addition to its Cézannes, the Musée Granet also exhibits 600 paintings, sculptures, and archaeological artefacts, including images from the 17th-century French school, as well as paintings by Giacometti, Picasso, Léger, Klee, de Staël, and collections from the French, Italian and Dutch painters like Rubens and Rembrandt.
Musée Granet
Place Saint Jean de Malte
13100 Aix-en-Provence
Closed on Mondays
Buying tickets in advance is recommended
Located in the quartier Mazarin, Hôtel de Gallifet dates from the 19th century. Previously a private mansion, today, it is a contemporary art centre with six (6) exhibition rooms.
Hôtel de Gallifet
52 Rue de Cardinale
13100 Aix-en-Provence
Open Wednesday through Saturday
Spend a day in Aix-en-Provence
Famous Places in Aix
The Cours Mirabeau, Aix-en-Provence’s Champs-Élysées, continues its evolution. It is one of the most popular and lively places in town. The French word cours comes from the Italian “corso,” meaning promenade. In 1651, Archbishop Mazarin, the cardinal’s brother, laid out the famed Cours Mirabeau, which divides the old town into two sections. This central road was lined with a double row of Plane trees (Sycamores), forming a beautiful leafy canopy. Unfortunately, in recent years, the city has removed trees due to disease. Initially, there were no shops on the street, only the residences of the wealthy. Today, elegant houses, shops, and banks line the Cours Mirabeau. The side of the road that benefits from more extended hours of direct sunshine is where you find the cafés and restaurants.
Throughout history, citizens have gathered in town squares or “places” to celebrate festivals, shop in markets, or dine with family and friends. There are several fascinating squares to visit on your day in Aix-en-Provence. At the Place des Martyrs de la Résistance you will find L’Archevêché, the former residence of the archbishops of Aix-en-Provence. It is home to the Tapestry Museum (La Musée des Tapisseries), a collection of tapestries from the 1600s and 1700s. In addition, each July it hosts the Aix Music Festival.
Look no further than Place Richelme for a daily food market. The Aixois have been buying their food in Place Richelme for eons: a small enclave called La Place aux Herbes was the original location of the fish and vegetable market back in 1360.
If you’re looking for a shady place to sit and relax, try Place des Trois Ormeaux. Named after the Consul of Aix, Bertrand Berici, this place hasn’t always been as peaceful as it is now: it was the alleged site of the hanging of Honoré de Puget, Lord of Prats in 1524.
The large clock tower in Place Hôtel de Ville was built in 1510 on Roman foundations, when clocks were rare. However, the presence of a public clock confirmed the city’s importance in the region.
Bell and clock towers are typical of Provencal architecture. The tower houses an astronomical clock from 1661, with four wooden statues representing the seasons. The four statues are moved manually at the start of each season. In Provence, the ornate wrought iron structure surrounding the bell is known as a campanile. The powerful mistral winds can blow for days here, and these structures prevent the bell from ringing randomly. The bell rings hourly, and the belfry is a passageway along Rue Gaston de Saporta.
In the same square as the Hôtel de Ville is the Hall aux Grains. Today, it houses a post office (La Poste). Constructed in 1717, it was used for regional grain trade. Throughout France, decorative building construction was not reserved for the nobility, buildings of public interest were also considered works of art. Chastel sculpted the triangular portion of the façade, which showed an older man holding an oar, symbolizing the Rhone River and its navigation. The goddess Sybille symbolizes the Durance River, with her trailing leg representing its frequent flooding. The grapes and lemons in her left hand represent food cultivation made possible by water supply and fertile soils.
The Place des Prêcheurs is primarily because it’s home to the Palais de Justice (courthouse). And just behind the courthouse is the Appeals Court. The fountain in the square is a visual highlight. Designed by Jean Pancrace Chastel and erected in 1758, it includes four lions supporting an obelisk decorated with medallions representing key figures, including Sextius and Louis XV.
For a photogenic fountain, head to Place d’Albertas. Named after the influential d’Albertas family, who migrated to Aix from Italy, the square was built at the request of Jean Baptiste d’Albertas, President of the Audit Office (la Cours des Comtes) in 1745. He wanted a better view from the windows of his home across the street, so he bought the buildings around the square and had them demolished (rational solution!). The fountain in the square was designed and built by the Ecole des Arts et Métiers students in 1912, replacing a previous structure.
Place des Quatre Dauphins has perfect proportions. Four chestnut trees surround the square, and the ornate fountain is decorated with four dolphins. The dolphins symbolize the importance of the city of Aix’s thermal origins.
Dining in Aix-en-Provence
Dining at these locations is like getting away on a mini vacation. Enjoy a relaxed meal and take in your surroundings as you will feel like you have escaped to paradise in Provence.
Step into the small Florentine Palace, Villa Gallici, a luxury hotel with gastronomic cuisine crafted by Chef Christophe Gavot. Inspired by the seasons and local Mediterranean products, the menu offers a unique dining experience. In warmer months, the terrace shaded by a large plane tree, overlooking the aqua pool and meticulous garden beds, provides a serene setting. During cold evenings, intimate candlelit spaces offer romantic seclusion, making your dining experience memorable.
18 Avenue de la Violette,
13100 Aix-en-Provence
Château de la Gaude, a stunning property just a quick drive north of the city, is a sight. This former private mansion, now a bastide, boasts a breathtaking garden and 15 hectares of vineyards under the AOP Coteaux d’Aix-en-Provence. There are several restaurants here under the guidance of a Michelin-starred chef. For a captivating lunch experience, we recommend La Brasserie K, especially if you can book a table on the terrace and soak in the beauty of the surroundings.
3959 Route des Pinchinats
13100 Aix-en-Provence
Discover the unexpected at Villa Saint-Ange, a 5-star hotel with an exceptional property within walking distance of the centre of Aix-en-Provence. With 34 luxury guestrooms and a lush, private garden, this hotel is a delightful surprise in the city’s heart. Book a table at ÂMA TERRA and savour the Mediterranean-inspired creations by Chef Pierre Gagnaire and his team, all while enjoying the unique setting.
7, Traverse Saint-Pierre
13100 Aix-en-Provence
Hôtel le Pigonnet was purpose built in 1924 on a one-hectare parcel. Le Pigonnet has been owned and operated by the same family for three generations. Plane trees contour the entranceway at this five-star hotel, a classical leafy canopy. The gardens are a feast for the eyes; a metal trellis covered in red climbing roses shades a walkway, as a small fountain trickles gently on sand-coloured stones – a cooling effect on a hot day. After lunch at this beautiful property, you may want to find a quiet garden corner and enjoy the surroundings.
5 Avenue du Pigonnet
13090 Aix-en-Provence
As you walk through the majestic iron gates into the cour d’honneur at l’Hôtel de Caumont – Centre of Art, let the elegant limestone façade transport you to another era. Glance through the majestic iron gates into the cour d’honneur at l’Hôtel de Caumont and let the sleek limestone façade transport you to another era. This grand entrance, unique even in the chic Quartier Mazarin, is a testament to the historical significance of this place.
Le Café Caumont
3 Rue Joseph Cabassol,
13100 Aix-en-Provence
Open daily.
They do not take reservations.
Telephone: +33 (0)4 42 20 70 01
The Hôtel de Gallifet is in the heart of the Mazarin quarter, just a few steps from the picturesque Fontaine des Quatre Dauphins.
Hôtel de Gallifet
52 Rue de Cardinale
13100 Aix-en-Provence
The restaurant is open Tuesdays through Sundays from June 1 to October 1. Weather permitting, dining is in the garden courtyard during the summer months. Reservations are highly recommended.
©Roy René
Candy might not be why you visit Aix-en-Provence, but don’t leave town without sampling the famous Calisson d’Aix. These sweets, made with ground, local almonds (sweet and bitter) and a fruit paste blend of melon confit (preserved in sugar) and orange peel, were officially recognized as part of the city’s heritage in 1990. Traditional calisson has three layers: a thin host paper on the bottom, the fruit-almond mixture and a light coating of royal icing on top. Typically, a soft, diamond-shaped calisson tastes similar to marzipan, although not as sweet, in my opinion.
Shopping in Aix-en-Provence
Bastide is a beauty and lifestyle collection celebrating Aix-en-Provence’s extraordinary artisans and terroir.” The brand’s visionaries are the talented couple Frédéric Fekkai and Shirin von Wulffen. Launched at the end of 2016, Bastide reflects their love for the region, top-quality ingredients, and expert craftsmanship. Read more about this backstory here.
Bastide
14 Rue Espariat
13100 Aix-en-Provence
©Rose et Marius
Rose et Marius is a luxury perfume house and home décor brand based in Aix-en-Provence. Founder Magali Fleurquin-Bonnard named the company after her grandmother, Rose, as a tribute to Provence. Fleurquin-Bonnard’s inspiration for the exquisitely designed product line originates from childhood memories, at the family’s country home in Puget sur Argens (in the Var), and her grandmother’s perfume. After completing studies in commerce and an MBA in luxury marketing, Fleurquin-Bonnard worked with high-end fashion brands including Piaget, Kenzo and Christian Lacroix.
Rose et Marius
3 rue Thiers,
13100 Aix en Provence
The Ouvrage boutique opened in September 2016. It is now the base for Sébastian and Agnes Krier’s architectural practice and a venue to showcase the handcrafted work of French artists and artisans. Read more about this boutique here.
Ouvrage
46, rue du Puits Neuf
13100 Aix-en-Provence
Books about Aix-en-Provence
Author M.L. Longworth, her husband and their young daughter relocated to Provence from California in 1997. Although there were some initial challenges and surprises, the family stayed and made the South of France their home. Being an expat living in a foreign language is not for the faint of heart. Longworth struggled to learn to speak French for several years until she met her neighbour and best friend. Read about this expat story and her books here.
Anne-Marie Simons moved to the United States in 1966 for one year and stayed for 32 more. From her birthplace in the Netherlands, her studies took her to Paris and then to San Francisco for journalism. They eventually settled in Aix-en-Provence. Her second book, Taking Root in Provence, shares their lifestyle and discoveries with friends.
Surprisingly, MFK Fisher’s Two Towns in Provence was written long ago. The Cours Mirabeau, the cultural center of Aix, looks much like it did when Fisher and her two daughters sought solace at Les Deux Garçons or ambled down the boulevard so many decades ago.
Office de Tourisme d’Aix-en-Provence (website)
Les Allées Provençales
300 Av. Giuseppe Verdi,
13100 Aix-en-Provence
Open daily