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Enjoy the Tastes of Haute-Provence on a Scenic Culinary and Cultural Drive

Flavourful Route des Saveurs et des Senteurs de Haute-Provence

The Alpes de Haute Provence department is the road slightly less travelled but not undiscovered. With easy access to natural settings, this area is a getaway with activities for sporty types (mountain biking, hiking, horseback riding, trail running and more). Many family-run operations produce high-quality lamb, honey, legumes (lentils, chickpeas), grains, and truffles for those interested in gourmet products. The ‘Route des Saveurs et des Senteurs de Haute-Provence’ is a renowned discovery trail that combines artisanal, small-scale food products, unblemished countryside, and Provencal villages with an alpine flair. This drive is a must-visit for any food lover interested in the tastes of Haute-Provence and its culinary and cultural heritage.

Vallee du Jabron Haute Provence

Here are the highlights of this flavourful sensory route:

L’Occitane en Provence

L’Occitane en Provence headquarters in Manosque is known worldwide for quality beauty products from the South of France. Book a museum and factory tour (in advance) to learn how the company transforms botanicals and other natural ingredients into skincare products.

L’Occitane en Provence
Factory, boutique, and Mediterranean garden
Website
Motorway A51
Chemin Saint-Maurice
04100 Manosque

Eggplants Provence Markets

Amazing Markets

Like everywhere else in Provence, the towns and villages of Haute Provence come alive with daily markets. The Forcalquier (Monday morning and Thursday afternoon) and Manosque (Saturday morning) markets, two of the largest in the area, are a vibrant celebration of local culture and cuisine. They are well worth a visit for a wide selection of seasonal produce and delicacies, offering a unique and exciting experience for any food lover.

Provence Market Guide

Beehives Honey in Provence

Honey and Goat Cheese

Stop at a local beekeeper (apiculteur (m)/ apicultrice (f)) for a sweet education in honey production. Many farms have samples for tasting and honey and beeswax products for sale. Long before superhighways and trains, cow milk was not available in Provence. The traditional regional cheeses are goat (chevre) and, to some degree, sheep (brebis). There are many goat cheese farmers in Haute Provence, and opportunities to see the animals grazing in the wild and the cheese varieties to taste.

Banon AOC Le Banon Cheese

Herbes and Flowers

Close to Forcalquier, the artistic centre of the Alpes de Haute Provence, is a truly remarkable historic site just outside the village of Mane. The Salagon Priory and its gardens have over 1,700 plants. Aside from remarkable flowers and herb gardens, the chance to walk through a place inhabited since Roman times is irresistible. The site has changed through the ages from a Gallo-Roman villa (1st century AD) to a museum and historical monument since 1981. However, traces of the earliest inhabitants date to the Neolithic period, 10,000–4,500 BC.

Start your journey at the visitor’s centre. From there, you enter the more formal gardens, which include flowerbeds dedicated to Medieval plants, fragrant species, medicinal herbs, plants from around the world, and even a space dedicated to plants that existed before any North American influence. Surrounding the formal gardens are less manicured spaces with native species such as willows and white oak trees.

Salagon Remarkable Gardens Priory

Garden of modern times ©C Brau for Salgagon, musée et jardins

Salagon, musée et jardins (website)
Le Prieuré
04300 Mane
Phone: +33 (0)4 92 75 70 50
Open February – December 15, but check seasonal hours before your visit.
The suggested time for a visit is 1-2 hours.

Something a bit Stronger

Regarding pastis, Riccard or Pernod might be brand names that spring to mind. Henri Bardouin is a local distillery that produces its version of anise-forward liquor.

Lavender Fields

During lavender season in Provence, it can be challenging to find a quiet spot. However, the Jabron Valley’s (Vallée du Jabron) rolling fields are a breathtaking glimpse of Provence from a more pastoral era. In this farming community, the local population manages with Mother Nature’s moods, cultivating the land regardless of what she delivers. The area can experience annual temperature swings of 50˚C from the coldest to the hottest days, but the valley’s beauty remains constant, inspiring awe and admiration.

Lavender fields Jabron Valley

Saffron Growers

The word saffron comes from the Arab word zafaran, which means yellow – the colour imparted to food by the dried stigma of the flowering crocus. The Crocus sativus is part of the Iris family: this tiny Iris cousin, a perennial, flowers in the fall. The plant grows from a bulb to a height of 20-30cm; the purple flower itself is no more than 4cm. Each flower contains three stigmas, not much larger than the size of a thread; these are harvested and dried to produce saffron. The flowers only bloom for a remarkably short period, hours. It takes 250,000 stigmas to make just half a kilo of saffron. You can only expect to reap 2.5-3 kilos of saffron on one acre of land. A few saffron farmers are in the region, including le Moulin de Jarjayes.

Saffron Harvest Provence Tastes Provence

Create a Tastes of Haute-Provence Itinerary

With its rich, complex history and endless stunning vistas, one is hard-pressed to pick a favourite place in France. Drive through Haute Provence’s Vallée du Jabron; you may have discovered that place. The Jabron Valley is an agricultural centre for almonds, truffles, sheep, wheat, goat cheese, honey, and saffron.

Start outside Sisteron and head westward along the D946 through tiny hamlets. The villages along the way are Bevons, Valbelle, Noyers sur Jabron, St Vincent sur Jabron, Chateauneuf Miravail, Lange, Curel, Montfroc and Les Omergues. To describe these hamlets as small is an exaggeration. These are tiny outposts in the valley along the flow of the Jabron River, surrounded by the peaks of Montagne de Lure and Mount Ventoux in the distance.

Route des Saveurs et des Senteurs de Haute-Provence (website)

Sweet and Savoury Recipes

The following recipes include ingredients you might find on your discovery of the Route des Saveurs et des Senteurs.

One Gram of Saffron Tastes of Provence

 

Saffron:

Saffron Chicken with Quince
If you want a new way to enjoy your chicken the next time you make dinner, you should try this recipe! 
Check out this recipe
Chicken Saffron Quince Recipe
Chicken Roasted with Saffron, Rosemary, and Lemon
Really, nothing could be easier to make than a roast chicken. There is very little preparation required, and plenty of time to make your sides while the chicken is roasting. Plus, the bonus is your kitchen will smell delicious.
Check out this recipe
Comfort Food Roast Chicken with lemon rosemary saffron Sunday Suppers
Shrimp Curry with Saffron and Coconut
The following was minimally adapted from the recipe by chef Vikram Vij. This curry is full of flavour but mild when it comes to heat. Once you start cooking, you can have the savoury saffron shrimp on the table in under 30-minutes.
Check out this recipe
Coconut Saffron Shrimp Curry
Saffron Panna Cotta
This dessert is easy to make, just allow enough time (3+ hours) for the panna cotta to set.
Check out this recipe
Saffron Panna Cotta Recipe
Apricot Saffron Rose Tarts
Apricot Saffron Rose Tarts is a delicious dessert created to share. The tart is made with fresh saffron that can be found at local farms in Provence. 
Check out this recipe
apricot saffron rose tart recipe

Market Honey Provence

Honey:

Tourte au Miel et aux Noix – Walnut and Honey Tart
A tasteful dessert that is made with local honey and fresh walnuts. Enjoy!
Check out this recipe
Walnut and Honey Tart Tourte au Miel et aux Noix
Lemon & Lavender Honey Madeleines dipped in Chocolate
The perfect treat to share! This recipe makes 30 large madeleines or 48 small madeleines.
Check out this recipe
Chocolate Dipped Lemon and Lavender Madeleines
Roasted Figs with Honey
The best part about fig season? Figs, of course! Enjoy these roasted figs with yogurt or a delicious bowl of ice cream.
Check out this recipe
Love Figs Easy Recipe
Pear and Honey Tart
Light flaky butter short crust pastry teeming with sweet caramel honey flavoured pear cubes topped with ice cream or crème fraiche,
Check out this recipe
Pear and Honey Tart #Recipe @MasdAugustine

Favourite Goat Cheese Recipes Provencal Goat Cheese Olives

Goat Cheese:

Watermelon Gazpacho with Olive Tapenade and Goat Cheese toasts
A recipe for a hot weather gazpacho and savoury bites that pair perfectly with rosé wine. 
Check out this recipe
Watermelon Gazpacho Soup Summer Days
Roast Beetroot and Goat Cheese Bruschetta
Try this easy bruschetta recipe as an appetizer. The delicious spread is made with beetroot and goat cheese and served on lightly toasted sourdough bread. 
Check out this recipe
Bruschetta Beet Goat Cheese
Goat Cheese and Pear Salad
Quick to prepare, this salad is a perfect compliment with the Acquiesce Roussanne and Belle Blanc wines.
Check out this recipe
Goat Cheese and Pear Salad
Stuffed Zucchini Blossoms: Goat Cheese, Sun-Dried Tomatoes, and Tapenade
This recipe is easy to prepare and delicious to eat. Serve hot with chilled rosé.
Check out this recipe
How to Stuff Zucchini Blossoms
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Carolyne Kauser-Abbott

With her camera and laptop close at hand, Carolyne has traded in her business suits for the world of freelance writing and blogging. Her first airplane ride at six months of age was her introduction to the exciting world of travel.

While in Provence, Carolyne can be found hiking with friends, riding the hills around the Alpilles or tackling Mont Ventoux. Her attachment to the region resonates in Perfectly Provence this digital magazine that she launched in 2014. This website is an opportunity to explore the best of the Mediterranean lifestyle (food & wine, places to stay, expat stories, books on the region, travel tips, real estate tips and more), through our contributors' articles.

Carolyne writes a food and travel blog Ginger and Nutmeg. Carolyne’s freelance articles can be found in Global Living Magazine, Avenue Magazine and City Palate (Published Travel Articles).

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