When I did my equivalent of the Grand Tour of Europe (minus the stately balls) in my 20s, Nice was the place we landed after an exhausting whirlwind of cities and train rides. Broke and fatigued, my then-boyfriend and I decided to spend a few extra days recuperating by the …

Last spring, I spent five glorious weeks in Provence, first in the not-so-interesting town of Pignans, then in Saorge, the fairytale village we fell in love with. Whenever I see one of the hundreds of photos I took on that trip, I remember it fondly, though it still feels like …

After spending four weeks in a tiny town in Provence near Aix, my husband, son, and I decided for a change of scenery. We packed up our many, many suitcases into a clown car-sized Peugeot, and drove two hours northeast to the picturesque mountain town of Saorge. I’m willing to …

Before my recent trip to Provence, I didn’t know much about the area other than it was known for its lavender and pastis. It’s only 3.5 hours from Marseille to Nice, so I figured it couldn’t be that hard to find a place to stay. Despite its relatively small size …

Reading MFK Fisher’s Two Towns in Provence, you might be surprised that it was written so long ago. Cours Mirabeau, the cultural center of Aix, looks much like it did when Fisher and her two daughters sought solace at Les Deux Garçons or ambled down the boulevard so many decades …

You can believe there was a lot of competition and jealousy among artists in Aix. In fact, the poster boy for Aix-en-Provence, Paul Cézanne, was spurned by fellow artist and curator of The Museum of Aix from 1892 to 1925, Henri Pointier. Pointier, who never excelled to the degree that …

When we travel, we usually shun hotels. Sure, there’s a lot to be said about room service and having someone make your bed every day, but with the advent of Airbnb, HomeAway, and other vacation rental websites, we’ve opened our eyes to a new way to live like locals.  Why …

At the heart of French culture — not to mention community and architecture — is the place, or square. Every town, big or small, has its fair share of places that have overseen festivals, markets, and families for centuries. Here are 6 worth finding in Aix-en-Provence. 1. Place des Martyrs de la …

For me, the purpose of traveling is to come back a little different than when I left. Whether it’s 5 weeks in Provence or a week in NYC, travel should make you thirst for more, and give you experiences you can use as brain food for years to come. Susan …

The thing I love about Provence is that it’s not Paris. What I mean is: Paris is obvious. There’s the Tour Eiffel, l’Arc de Triomphe, a whole slew of “must-see” tourist destinations. But Provence, on the other hand, still has a lot of hidden secrets that the average tourist is …