Why Plan to Visit Tarascon on the Rhône River in Provence

The town of Tarascon sits on the left (east) bank of the Rhône River in Provence, directly across the water from its sister town, Beaucaire. Located south of Avignon and north of Arles, it would be difficult for these two small towns to sparkle next to the larger and better-funded communities. However, for residents, that may be part of the charm. Below are several reasons why you should plan to visit Tarascon.

A Bit of History

Tarascon and Beaucaire were busy centres during the 18th century, with traffic from the industrious port city of Marseille. Goods arriving into the Provençal port from the eastern shores of the Mediterranean (Levant), the New World and the West Indies were loaded on smaller craft and shipped up the Rhône for trade. Beaucaire, in particular, held a large medieval fair for goods that included rich silks, raw pieces of cotton, and exotic spices. In 1720, greed surpassed logic and a cargo ship from Syria with a reported crew sickness aboard was allowed to enter the port of Marseille with its precious cargo bound for Beaucaire. An estimated 50,000 people died in Marseille of the Black Plague.

Tarasque the Monster

The Heart of Darkness or Niger Focus (later Nerluc) might have been an appropriate name for the hamlet located on the shores of a murky, swampy river. The muddy, opaque waters fueled rumours cultivating the nightmares of residents who asked whether the beast was:

A huge serpent?

A dragon?

A fierce half-lion?

A vicious turtle?

Stories swirled of Tarasque, a fire-breathing sea creature that had made its way up the Rhône River. The brute terrorized inhabitants of the settlement as it destroyed bridges, caused river traffic havoc and burned buildings. Legend has it that Martha of Bethany, who had arrived from Judea in 49 CE to spread the teachings of Christianity, tamed the beast. However, the townsfolk then butchered the monster in revenge. In 2005, UNESCO included Tarasque on its list of Masterpieces of Oral and Intangible Heritage of Humanity.

Tarascon has made their monster a living legend. Every year, around the end of June, the town hosts the Tarasque Festival. It is an opportunity for residents to connect with family and friends. There are events for all ages, medieval games, concerts, and a parade with dragons and other mythical creatures.

Château de Tarascon

To strangers, Tarascon’s small historical section with crooked, narrow streets looks unkempt. If you look past the shuttered windows and graffiti etchings, you can imagine what the town might have been like when the imposing walls of the Tarascon Castle (le Château du Roi René) were completed in 1449. It is a unique blend of Gothic and Renaissance architecture, and is considered one of France’s most beautiful fortresses.

The castle was built on the previous 13th-century fortifications occupied by Charles d’Anjou, Count of Provence. Located at the intersection of the land and river routes connecting Provence and Languedoc, the château played a key role in controlling the political border of the Rhône River.

In addition to its role as a royal residence, the Château de Tarascon was used as a prison from the late 15^th century until the early 1900s. Many political and military prisoners left graffiti as historical records of their incarceration.

The castle opened its doors to visitors in 1933 and is exceptionally well-preserved due to careful restoration and maintenance by architects and craftspeople specializing in historical monuments.

René d’Anjou Art Centre

In recognition of the d’Anjou princes’ passion for the arts, you’ll find the René d’Anjou Art Centre within the castle. The art centre merges the region’s history with contemporary artwork of fantasy/fantastic animals. Of course, this pays homage to the legend of the Tarasque. The Art Centre also showcases creations by modern artists such as Christian Lacroix, Françoise Pétrovitch, Christian Gonzenbach, and Dominique Angel.

Château de Tarascon – Centre d’arts René d’Anjou

• Address: Boulevard du Roi René, 13150 Tarascon
• Phone: 04 90 91 01 93
• Email: contact-chateau@mairie-tarascon13.fr

Hours:

• January – March: 09:30-12:30 and 14:00-17:00 Closed on Mondays.
• April: 09:30- 12:30 and 14:00-17:00
• May – September: 09:30- 12:30 and 13:45-18:30
• October – December: 09:30-12:30 and 14:00-17:00. Closed on Mondays.

Fees: Adults (25 and up) 8€, students (18-24) 6.50€, and youth (10-17) 3.50€. Children under 10 are free. Discounts are available for families. Various “culture passes” are accepted.

Église Sainte-Marthe

The church in Tarascon, l’Église Ste Marthe, is well worth a visit. It was built in the 11^th and 12^th centuries in honour of the Christian saint Martha of Bethany. In the Bible, Martha, her siblings Mary and Lazarus were followers of Jesus. After the resurrection, they were forced to flee the Middle East. Martha settled in Tarascon, and as legend has it, with the help of her faith, she tamed the dragon Tarasque. Martha died in Tarascon, and her tomb is in the church’s crypt.

In 1197, the Romanesque church was dedicated to Sainte-Marthe. The building was enlarged in the 14^th and 15^th centuries and incorporated Gothic architecture. Over the years, it has been a place of pilgrimage for many Christians. Today, the church is a place of worship for the community and was listed by UNESCO as a Cultural and Intangible Heritage of Humanity site in 2005. The church is home to works of art from the 1600s to 1800s, beautiful stained-glass windows, ornate architectural sculptures (including the altar), and a restored Boisselin-Moitessier polychrome organ.

Presbytère de Tarascon

• Address: Place de la Concorde, 13150 Tarascon
• Phone: 04 90 91 09 50
• Email: secretariatsaintemarthe13@gmail.com

Hours and fees: There is no entry fee (donations are always appreciated), and the church is open all year round, but there may be restrictions due to religious services.

Rue des Halles

Rue des Halles was constructed in the medieval period to house Tarascon’s covered market. This narrow street is lined with archways dating back to the 14^th century. At the time, it was the centre of commerce in the city.

Today, the tourist office marks the entrance to this historic narrow street. Shops, bakeries, and restaurants line the street. It is the perfect spot to find foods produced with local ingredients and unique treasures crafted by artisans in and around Tarascon.

Hours: The street is open all year round. The hours of each shop vary, but they are generally open during regular business hours.

Musée Souleiado

The Musée Souleiado showcases the rich history of calico fabric in Provence. This type of fabric printing originated in India in Calicut (now known as Kozhikode) and has been the Souleiado family’s legacy since 1806. Visitors can explore the original workshop and traditional printing techniques. Some of these fabrics and patterns have inspired the creations of famous fashion houses such as Lacroix and Gucci. Visitors are welcome to shop in the boutique and factory outlet. The on-site tearoom is open only during the summer months.

Musée Souleiado

• Address: 39 rue Charles Deméry, 13150 Tarascon
• Phone: 04 90 91 08 80
• Email: musee@souleiado.com

Hours: April 5^th to October 31^st Monday to Saturday, 10h00-18h00

Fees: 7€ per person and free for those under 18 years old. Discount rates for group tours of 10 people or more.

Les Cordeliers – Musée d’Art et d’Histoire

The Cordeliers Museum of Art and History is located in the heart of Tarascon, only a few minutes walk from Rue des Halles. The Cordeliers, one of the oldest religious communities in Tarascon, was associated with the Franciscan order, which built a monastery in town. After the French Revolution, the property was seized and sold to different people. The city purchased part of the property in the 1800s and eventually became the museum.

The museum is home to permanent exhibits about renowned citizens throughout the city’s history, including Tartarin, a resident of Tarascon who embarked on a lion-hunting adventure in Algeria. Of course, you can also see the legendary Tarasque (described by the poet Frédéric Mistral in his book “Mireio“). It also hosts temporary exhibits of paintings, photography, and contemporary art, many by local artists.

Les Cordeliers

• Address: Place Frédéric Mistral, 13150 Tarascon
• Phone: 04 90 91 38 71

Hours:

• November – April: 9h30- 12h30 et 14h00- 17h00. Closed on Mondays
• May – June and October: 9h30- 12h30 et 14h00- 17h30. Closed on Mondays
• July – September: 9h30-12h30 et 15h00-18h00. Closed on Mondays.

Plan to Visit Tarascon

Tarascon Tourism Office

• Address: 62 Rue des Halles, 13150 Tarascon
• Phone: +33 4 90 91 03 52

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Carolyne Kauser-Abbott

With her camera and laptop close at hand, Carolyne has traded in her business suits for the world of freelance writing and blogging. Her first airplane ride at six months of age was her introduction to the exciting world of travel.

While in Provence, Carolyne can be found hiking with friends, riding the hills around the Alpilles or tackling Mont Ventoux. Her attachment to the region resonates in Perfectly Provence this digital magazine that she launched in 2014. This website is an opportunity to explore the best of the Mediterranean lifestyle (food & wine, places to stay, expat stories, books on the region, travel tips, real estate tips and more), through our contributors' articles.

Carolyne writes a food and travel blog Ginger and Nutmeg. Carolyne’s freelance articles can be found in Global Living Magazine, Avenue Magazine and City Palate (Published Travel Articles).