The Camargue is Provence’s Unmissable Wild Side

While the lavender and sunflower fields of Provence are visually stunning, the Camargue region offers a unique combination of natural beauty that makes it a must-see destination. What makes visiting the Camargue so special? This area is home to semi-wild horses, untamed bulls, a diverse population of birds, rugged cowhands, and beautiful sandy beaches. In this article, we will examine the distinctive features of the Camargue.

©Sue Aran, French Country Adventures

Where is the Camargue

France’s southeastern coastline extends from Spain to the Italian border. Nestled between the Côte Bleue (to the west of Marseille) and the Occitanie department, the Camargue is a fascinating region. The term “Camargue” originates from a Celto-Ligurian (Provençal) dialect, specifically the word “Ca-mar,” meaning “field covered with water.”

Covering over 100,000 hectares (247,000 acres), the Camargue is a unique marshland where the Grand and Petit Rhône rivers meet the Mediterranean Sea. Recognized for its ecological significance, it was partially protected in 1927 and declared a nature reserve in 1986. Now a UNESCO biosphere reserve, it is managed by the Parc naturel régional de Camargue, attracting visitors with its rich biodiversity and natural beauty.

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A Giant Watershed

The Camargue is a unique landscape fed by the Rhône Glacier in the Swiss Alps, serving as an essential water source for the Rhône River. After merging with the Saône River in Lyon, the Rhône divides into the Grand Rhône and Petit Rhône near Arles, creating a diverse habitat that supports semi-feral bulls, graceful horses, vibrant flamingos, and the occasional mosquito.

The Rhône River has a significant history as a trade route during the Greek and Roman empires, though its flooding and dangerous currents made navigation difficult. Infrastructure projects from 1885 to 1905, along with the creation of the Compagnie Nationale du Rhône (CNR) in 1933, enhanced water levels and navigation safety while supporting regional agriculture.

France, Bouches du Rhone (13), parc naturel regional de Camargue, Les Saintes Maries de la Mer, Baisse de la Blancarde (vue aerienne) ©Camille Moirenc

Getting to the Camargue

Arles, known for its rich Roman history, Van Gogh’s artworks, and an annual photography festival, serves as the gateway to the Camargue. Fortunately, the Camargue is easily accessible by car from several nearby destinations, including Marseille, Aix-en-Provence, and Avignon. Visiting the Camargue by car is a convenient option. If you prefer not to drive, please inquire about guided tours.

©Sue Aran, French Country Adventures

Arles: City Guide

Exploring Natural Camargue

The Camargue’s natural environment features brackish canals, where an array of vegetation, including seagrass, reeds, and thistles, grows. Known for its beaches, the Camargue seaside features long stretches of soft, white sand.

The Camargue is a wetland located at the mouth of the Rhône River, making it the largest Mediterranean delta after the Nile Delta. It is home to over 340 bird species, notably the pink flamingo. In the 1970s, conservationists established a program to protect these flamingos, creating an artificial island on L’étang du Fangassier to encourage breeding. This initiative has been very successful, with around 10,000 to 15,000 pairs reproducing each year.

©Camille Moirenc

Camargue Ranching Culture

The Camargue is often referred to as Provence’s “Wild West,” featuring cowherders (gardians), white horses, and black bulls. This area’s ranching culture adds an intriguing layer to the region’s natural beauty, making it a must-visit for any traveller.

The Horses: The traditional horses of this swampy terrain are notable for their striking white manes and mottled grey-white coats. The Camargue horse, recognized by the National Stud Farms since March 1978, is a loyal and sturdy working animal that lives semi-feral in the marshes of the manades (ranches).

©Perfectly Provence

Typically, multiple broodmares mate with each stallion, and foals are born with dark coats that fade after three to four years. Yearlings are branded with the manade’s symbol and separated from their mothers. At three years old, males start training, requiring gardians to earn their trust gradually.

The Bulls: The Camargue bulls, known as “raço di biou,” are as black as night and are stocky, typically standing no taller than 4 to 5 feet. Their horns point upwards, in contrast to those of Spanish bulls, which curve downward. These bulls are raised for two primary purposes: either for display in shows or for their meat.

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During summer festivals, bulls are featured in local arenas or run through village streets. This ranching culture has deep roots in the Bouches-du-Rhône, with origins in Italy and Spain, and remains highly popular.

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Taureau de Camargue meat received the AOC designation in the late 1990s. The animals are fed solely on local plants and grasses, which provide lean, organic protein.

Activities in the Camargue

One day in the Camargue is barely enough to experience its many activities, including off-road cycling, bird-watching, horseback riding, and river kayaking. A variety of guided tours also allow visitors to explore lesser-known spots. The main cities, Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer and Aigues-Mortes, are notable for their historical and religious significance, making them key stops on any traveller’s itinerary.

©Perfectly Provence

Attention, nature and bird lovers! During your visit to Provence, make sure to stop by the family-friendly Parc Ornithologique de Pont-de-Gau. Located in the Camargue near Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer, this birding hotspot offers the chance to see pink flamingos and a variety of other bird species.

Travel tip: The Camargue is home to many mosquitoes. Bring bug repellent, wear long sleeves, or visit on a windy day.

©Perfectly Provence

Culturally Unique Camargue

The capital of the Camargue, Les Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer, dates back to the 4th century and is situated among mistral-whipped landscapes and sandy beaches along the Mediterranean.

Pèlerinage des Gitans is a yearly pilgrimage for the Roma people, which takes place from May 24 to 25 to honour Saint Sarah, their patron saint. She is a small black woman resting in the crypt of Église Notre-Dame-de-la-Mer. According to legend, Sarah welcomed several Marys—Mary Jacobe, Mary Salome, and Mary Magdalene—when they arrived in the Camargue region by boat in the first century, wading into the Mediterranean to help them to shore.

©Sue Aran French Country Adventures

Aigues-Mortes, meaning “dead waters,” is the last town on the Rhône River before it meets the Mediterranean Sea near Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer. Surrounded by restored ramparts, it offers a glimpse into life in a fortified city. Don’t miss the self-guided rampart tour and the informative audio guide.

Camargue’s Gastronomy

The salt flats in the Camargue produce over two million tons of sea salt each year. From April to October, Mediterranean water fills channels and evaporation pans spanning about 60 kilometres. During the course of the summer, the salt content increases from 26 grams to over 260 grams per litre. Visit the Salins d’Aigues-Mortes, located outside Aigues-Mortes, to learn about the production process of fleur de sel. Travel tip: Buy entry tickets in advance during the summer months to secure a spot on the little train tour.

©Sue Aran French Country Adventures

Did you know that rice is grown in Provence? The Camargue region, with its Mediterranean climate and well-draining soil, has been cultivating rice since the 13th century. Today, around 180 farmers continue this tradition. In 2000, Camargue Rice received Protected Geographical Indication (PGI) certification. This rice comes in several varieties, including long-grain, round, red, and black. Learn more about Camargue rice here and in the video below.

It’s France, so there is wine too! The Camargue region produces exceptional wines known for their freshness and balance. “Sable de Camargue” refers to the vineyards from Sainte-Marie-de-la-Mer to La Mer à Sète, which thrive due to their proximity to the sea, breezes, tidal waters, and low rainfall.

Unmissable Camargue

The Camargue cross symbolizes the unique features of the landscape, combining three virtues:

• The cross for faith, represented by a three-pronged fork used by gardians (cowboys).
• The anchor for hope, reflecting the sea’s importance to the region.
• The heart for charity.

©Perfectly Provence

We hope this article has encouraged you to visit the Camargue, a beautiful region of Provence with something for everyone. For accommodation options, tours, or any other questions, please contact us here.

Practical Information for Visitors

Parc Ornithologique du Pont de Gau (website) 
RD 570
13460 Saintes Maries de la Mer
Telephone: +33 (0)4 90 97 82 62

Parc naturel régional de Camargue (website) 
Mas du Pont de Rousty
13200 Arles
Telephone +33 (0)4 90 97 10 40

Arles Camargue Office de Tourisme (website) 
9 boulevard des Lices
Telephone: +33 (0)4 90 18 41 20

Saintes Maries de la Mer Office de Tourisme (website) 
5 Avenue Van Gogh,
13460 Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer
Phone: 04 90 97 82 55

Aigues-Mortes Office de Tourisme (website) 
Place Saint Louis – BP 23
30220 Aigues-Mortes
Telephone: +33(0)4 66 53 73 00

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Carolyne Kauser-Abbott

With her camera and laptop close at hand, Carolyne has traded in her business suits for the world of freelance writing and blogging. Her first airplane ride at six months of age was her introduction to the exciting world of travel.

While in Provence, Carolyne can be found hiking with friends, riding the hills around the Alpilles or tackling Mont Ventoux. Her attachment to the region resonates in Perfectly Provence this digital magazine that she launched in 2014. This website is an opportunity to explore the best of the Mediterranean lifestyle (food & wine, places to stay, expat stories, books on the region, travel tips, real estate tips and more), through our contributors' articles.

Carolyne writes a food and travel blog Ginger and Nutmeg. Carolyne’s freelance articles can be found in Global Living Magazine, Avenue Magazine and City Palate (Published Travel Articles).