Elizabeth GabayTaste: Food & DrinkWines and Spirits of Provence

Drinking Rosé in Restaurants is it Just a Passing Trend?

By Elizabeth Gabay

I am often asked how I see rosé developing. Is it just a fashion? Will the market soon become bored of neutral pale pink ‘lifestyle’ wines, drunk icy cold by the pool and move on to something else?

My answer is yes … Pinot Grigio, simple rosé – both styles have been overdone by volume, mass appeal and lower prices. Cheap watery Chardonnay, light grassy Sauvignon Blanc went the same way.

…Continue reading here for Elizabeth’s opinion, as a Master of Wine, on whether these light-hued rosés are just a passing trend or a wine category that will endure.

Beyond the Rosé Trend

There is no question that the volume of rosé sold has been rising for several years running. The rosés that are the most popular tend to be almost clear in colour, with fruity, floral notes. Just search Instagram for #RoseAllDay, and these are the wines that are typically in the social feed.

Rosé represents a mere 1.5% of the U.S. table wine market, but sales climbed 53% by volume to sales of $258 million in the last 52 weeks, according to Nielsen. ~ Forbes Magazine, August 9, 2017.

However, the reality is that some rosés are complex wines. As Elizabeth points out in her post 353 Shades of Rosé, these wines cover a full path from the lighter end of the spectrum to deep ruby reds. Some can even tolerate time in oak barrels.  The result is wines that can be paired with a broader variety of foods. These wines should be consumed all year, not just at the poolside. One day, perhaps, there will be wine lists that match the complexity of rosé production.

Unlike the low priced pink wines favored by millennials, Morris’ article centered on rosé wines made not just for the summer closest to their release but those that may have a future—wines that can age. ~ Forbes Magazine, July 23, 2018.

Rosé Wine Experts

For a deeper dive into the subject of rosé, read Elizabeth’s book “Rosé: Understanding the pink wine revolution (The Classic Wine Library).” She spent a full year tasting rosés from around the world to write the book.

Victoria James is a Certified Sommelier in New York City. She is also the author of “Drink Pink a Celebration of Rosé” she agrees with Elizabeth that the rosé category is here to stay. Read our interview with this talented lady here.

  

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Elizabeth Gabay

Elizabeth Gabay

I first started coming to Provence regularly in the mid-1980s when, with my family, we invested in a small cottage in the central Var. I started to specialise in the wines of the area, selling them in the UK – way before Provencal rosé became fashionable. A 10 year pause in the 1990s while I worked at the Master of Wine degree, got married and had my two children before we decided to make a move to France full time. Based to the north of the wine region of Bellet and Nice since 2002, I write about the wines of south east France and Liguria (as well as other countries). I particularly enjoy the cultural and historical background to wine and some of the more obscure facts.

Visit Elizabeth Gabay MW here for covers south eastern France (and related topics).

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