When I did my equivalent of the Grand Tour of Europe (minus the stately balls) in my 20s, Nice was the place we landed after an exhausting whirlwind of cities and train rides. Broke and fatigued, my then-boyfriend and I decided to spend a few extra days recuperating by the …

Last spring, I spent five glorious weeks in Provence, first in the not-so-interesting town of Pignans, then in Saorge, the fairytale village we fell in love with. Whenever I see one of the hundreds of photos I took on that trip, I remember it fondly, though it still feels like …

After spending four weeks in a tiny town in Provence near Aix, my husband, son, and I decided for a change of scenery. We packed up our many, many suitcases into a clown car-sized Peugeot, and drove two hours northeast to the picturesque mountain town of Saorge. I’m willing to …

Before my recent trip to Provence, I didn’t know much about the area other than it was known for its lavender and pastis. It’s only 3.5 hours from Marseille to Nice, so I figured it couldn’t be that hard to find a place to stay. Despite its relatively small size …

Reading MFK Fisher’s Two Towns in Provence, you might be surprised that it was written so long ago. Cours Mirabeau, the cultural center of Aix, looks much like it did when Fisher and her two daughters sought solace at Les Deux Garçons or ambled down the boulevard so many decades …

When we travel, we usually shun hotels. Sure, there’s a lot to be said about room service and having someone make your bed every day, but with the advent of Airbnb, HomeAway, and other vacation rental websites, we’ve opened our eyes to a new way to live like locals.  Why …

At the heart of French culture — not to mention community and architecture — is the place, or square. Every town, big or small, has its fair share of places that have overseen festivals, markets, and families for centuries. Here are 6 worth finding in Aix-en-Provence. 1. Place des Martyrs de la …

The thing I love about Provence is that it’s not Paris. What I mean is: Paris is obvious. There’s the Tour Eiffel, l’Arc de Triomphe, a whole slew of “must-see” tourist destinations. But Provence, on the other hand, still has a lot of hidden secrets that the average tourist is …

Saorge, nestled on the border of France and Italy, just an hour northeast from Nice, was a surprise and delight. With a population of just 445, the town is cozy (and everyone knows your business). But winding staircases and ample hiking trails made it a place we will return again …

We hate being treated like tourists when we visit another place, and yet sometimes it’s our actions that send up a red flag that we’re strangers. Here are 5 ways you might be tipping your cards about being a tourist (and how to get a poker face). You Walk Around …