The Cavaillon Synagogue and More Historic Jewish Sites in Provence

In a previous article, I reviewed Ten (10) historic Jewish sites in Provence – the details are included below. Recently, I discovered that 2024 marks several anniversaries of the Cavaillon synagogue:  the 250^th anniversary of its construction, the 100^th anniversary of it being classed as a Historic Monument of France, and the 40^th anniversary of its restoration. Provence was the centre of this religious community in France for centuries, thanks to a surprising protector: the Pope. This article covers several historic Jewish sites in Provence, including the Cavaillon synagogue, some of which you can visit, and others have entry restrictions.

Cavaillon Synagogue

The old Jewish quarter is on Rue Hébraïque (Hebrew Street), behind the tourist office. Its beautiful synagogue, today a Historical Monument, is no longer in use. In the museum’s basement, which once housed a matzo bakery, you will find the Musée Judéo-Comtadin. It displays Torah scrolls, ritual objects and historical documents and provides a fascinating look at French Jewish life in the region.

Synagogue de Cavaillon (website)
Musée juif comtadin – ancienne synagogue
Rue Hébraïque,
84300 Cavaillon
Contact via email for guided tours: patrimoine.musees@ville-cavaillon.fr

Cavaillon: 2024 Celebrations

Throughout 2024, these anniversaries will be celebrated with tours, talks, concerts, and more. Some upcoming events are below, with further information available at www.cavaillon.fr/informations-pratiques.html.

April 7: Jewish family names from Occitanie to the Comtat Venaissin

April 14: The Jewish history of Pernes-les-Fontaines and its mikvas (ritual baths)

April 20: Understanding the symbols and rituals of Passover at Cavaillon’s Comtadin Jewish Museum

May 5: Vestiges of Jewish life in l’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue and the project to rehabilitate its Jewish quarter

June 29: Round table discussion and short film about composer Darius Milhaud, followed by a concert of his works

History: The Pope’s Jews

During the Middle Ages, when Jews were being driven out of country after country, the Pope offered them refuge in the French Papal States. These States were made up of Avignon and the adjoining territory called the Comtat Venaissin, and Jews could live there in relative freedom. Known as Les Juifs du Pape (the Pope’s Jews), they built active communities and even developed a new dialect, shuadit, a mix of Hebrew and Provençal.

Unfortunately, over time, these Jews found themselves subject to more and more restrictions. Eventually, they could live in only four cities, the Arba Kehilot (“holy communities”) of Avignon, Carpentras, Cavaillon, and l’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue. They were crammed into small ghettos called carrières, with gates that locked them in at night. The limited space forced residents to build upwards, creating medieval “skyscrapers” as many as five stories high.

Today, you can visit Jewish historical sites in the four towns of the Arba Kehilot and other towns and cities throughout Provence. Most of the cities have active Jewish communities and synagogues.

Aix-en-Provence: Synagogue and WWII Memorial

©Camp des Milles website

While not much evidence of the ancient Jewish community remains, you can visit the city’s synagogue and the next-door Darius Milhaud Cultural Center, which hosts Jewish cultural events and a Jewish Heritage tour. Outside of town is the Camp des Milles Memorial Site, a former detention camp where thousands of Jews were held before being sent to Auschwitz.

Camp des Milles Memorial Site
40 Chem. de la Badesse,
13290 Aix-en-Provence
Open daily 10h – 19h

Arles: Museum

Before being expelled during the Middle Ages, Jews lived along the Rue de la Juiverie (Jewry Street), now called Rue du Docteur Fanton. The Jewish quarter was then destroyed, and unfortunately, no vestiges remain. The Museon Arlaten, a museum devoted to folk art and traditions, displays several Jewish historical objects from the Provence region.

Muséon Arlaten
29 – 31 rue de la République
13200 Arles
Open daily from 10h to 18h
Closed on Mondays.
Last admission: 17h15

Avignon: Synagogue

©Creative Commons license, attribution Marianne Casamance

The Jewish community of Avignon goes back to the first century and the destruction of the Second Temple. The original Jewish quarter faced the Palais des Papes on Rue de la Vieille Juiverie (Old Jewry Street). Still, by the 13th century, it had moved to Rue Jacob and Place Jérusalem, where the present-day synagogue stands. This synagogue, on the site of the original 13th-century building, was rebuilt after a fire in 1846. The synagogue hosts daily services and stands next to a matzo bakery.

Must-See Avignon

Synagogue d’Avignon
2 place Jérusalem
84000 Avignon
Closed on Saturdays and Sundays

Carpentras: Synagogue and Cemetery

Carpentras Synagogue
France ©Konradm – Own work, GFDL, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=8100007

The Carpentras Synagogue is the oldest in France. Built in 1367, it has been designated a Historic Monument. Synagogues weren’t allowed ornamentation at the time of its construction, so it has a plain facade but a beautiful and ornate interior. The remnants of a mikvah (ritual bath) and a matzo bakery are in the basement.

Outside of town is a Jewish cemetery that dates back to the 14th century. Carpentras also holds an annual summer Jewish music festival.

©Carpentras synagogue website

Carpentras Synagogue
Place Maurice Charretier,
84200 Carpentras
Closed on Saturdays and Sundays

L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue: Cemetery

Little remains of the medieval Jewish quarter, although street names like Rue Hébraïque mark its presence. Original wrought-iron balconies still decorate some of the buildings of the old carrière. The Jewish cemetery can be seen outside of town.

Marseille: Synagogues

Marseille has France’s second-largest Jewish community, with several dozen active synagogues. The largest of these, the Grand Synagogue, was built in 1864 in a Roman-Byzantine style and is considered one of the finest religious achievements of the Second Empire. There are many mikvahs in town and a small Holocaust memorial, the Deportations Memorial, at the foot of Fort Saint-Jean.

Grande Synagogue de Marseille
Consistoire Israélite de Marseille
117-119 rue breteuil
13006 Marseille

Marseille City Guide

Nice: Synagogue and Cemetery

©Creative Commons license, attribution Jesmar

Nice has an active Jewish community and a Grand Synagogue with beautiful stained-glass windows. The cemetery contains graves dating back to 1626.

Additional Reading: Nice’s Cathedral the Most Russian Spot in France

St-Rémy-de-Provence: Cemetery

©Ministry of Culture

Outside town is a Jewish cemetery built at the beginning of the 15th century. During September’s Journées du Patrimoine (Heritage Days), it is open once a year when there are guided visits.

Ideas for Your Visit to St Remy

Trets

The Jewish community once lived around the former Rue des Juifs (Street of the Jews), now called Rue Paul-Bert. The ancient synagogue is believed to have been housed in one of the buildings which today line that street, but its exact location is uncertain.

Further Information

More information on visiting Jewish sites in Provence, including directions for a driving tour, can be found on the official French tourism site. You can also find information about Jewish sites throughout France and Europe at J Guide Europe.

Image credits as indicated above.

Keith Van Sickle splits his time between Provence and California. He is the author of the best-selling An Insider’s Guide to Provence. Read more at Life in Provence.