InspireKeith Van SickleProvencal History & Traditions

10 Historic Jewish Sites in Provence

France has a thriving Jewish community, the third largest in the world after Israel and the United States. And while today Paris is the center of French Jewish life, this wasn’t always the case. That center was Provence for centuries, thanks to a surprising protector: the Pope. This article covers ten (10) historic Jewish sites in Provence, some of which you can visit and others with restrictions on entry.

The Pope’s Jews

During the Middle Ages, when Jews were being driven out of country after country, the Pope offered them refuge in the French Papal States. These States were made up of Avignon and the adjoining territory called the Comtat Venaissin, and Jews could live there in relative freedom. Known as Les Juifs du Pape (the Pope’s Jews), they built active communities and even developed a new dialect, shuadit, a mix of Hebrew and Provençal.

Unfortunately, over time these Jews found themselves subject to more and more restrictions. Eventually, they could live in only four cities, the Arba Kehilot (“holy communities”) of Avignon, Carpentras, Cavaillon, and l’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue. They were crammed into small ghettos called carrières, with gates that locked them in at night. The limited space forced residents to build upwards, creating medieval “skyscrapers” as many as five stories high.

Today you can visit Jewish historical sites in the four towns of the Arba Kehilot and other towns and cities throughout Provence. Most of the cities have active Jewish communities and synagogues.

Aix-en-Provence

Jewish Provence Camp des Milles

©Camp des Milles website

While not much evidence of the ancient Jewish community remains, you can visit the city’s synagogue and the next-door Darius Milhaud Cultural Center, which hosts Jewish cultural events and a Jewish Heritage tour. Outside of town is the Camp des Milles Memorial Site, a former detention camp where thousands of Jews were held before being sent to Auschwitz.

Camp des Milles Memorial Site
40 Chem. de la Badesse,
13290 Aix-en-Provence
Open daily 10h – 19h

Arles

Before being expelled during the Middle Ages, Jews lived along the Rue de la Juiverie (Jewry Street), now called Rue du Docteur Fanton. The Jewish quarter was then destroyed, and unfortunately, no vestiges remain. The Museon Arlaten, a museum devoted to folk art and traditions, displays several Jewish historical objects from the Provence region.

Muséon Arlaten
29 – 31 rue de la République
13200 Arles
Open daily from 10h to 18h
Closed on Mondays.
Last admission: 17h15

Avignon

Jewish Provence Avignon synagogue CC Marianne Casamance

©Creative Commons license, attribution Marianne Casamance

The Jewish community of Avignon goes back to the first century and the destruction of the Second Temple. The original Jewish quarter faced the Palais des Papes on Rue de la Vieille Juiverie (Old Jewry Street). Still, by the 13th century, it had moved to Rue Jacob and Place Jérusalem, where the present-day synagogue stands. This synagogue, on the site of the 13th-century original, was rebuilt after a fire in 1846. The synagogue hosts daily services and stands next to a matzo bakery.

Must-See Avignon

Synagogue d’Avignon
2 place Jérusalem
84000 Avignon
Closed on Saturdays and Sundays

Carpentras

Jewish Provence carpentras synagogue wikimedia commons Konradm

Carpentras Synagogue
France ©Konradm – Own work, GFDL, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=8100007

The Carpentras Synagogue is the oldest in France. Built in 1367, it has been designated a Historic Monument. Synagogues weren’t allowed ornamentation at the time of its construction, so it has a plain facade but a beautiful and ornate interior. The remnants of a mikvah (ritual bath) and a matzo bakery are in the basement.

Outside of town is a Jewish cemetery that dates back to the 14th century. Carpentras also holds an annual summer Jewish music festival.

Carpentras Synagogue
Place Maurice Charretier,
84200 Carpentras
Closed on Saturdays and Sundays

Cavaillon

Jewish Provence Cavaillon synagogue from museum

©Musée Judéo-Comtadin

The old Jewish quarter is on Rue Hébraïque (Hebrew Street), behind the tourist office. Its beautiful synagogue, today a Historical Monument, is no longer in use. In the museum’s basement, which once housed a matzo bakery, you will find the Musée Judéo-Comtadin. It displays Torah scrolls, ritual objects and historical documents and provides a fascinating look at French Jewish life in the region.

L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue

Little remains of the medieval Jewish quarter, although street names like Rue Hébraïque mark its presence. Original wrought-iron balconies still decorate some of the buildings of the old carrière. The Jewish cemetery can be seen outside of town.

Marseille

Marseille has France’s second-largest Jewish community, with several dozen active synagogues. The largest of these, the Grand Synagogue, was built in 1864 in a Roman-Byzantine style and is considered one of the finest religious achievements of the Second Empire. There are many mikvahs in town and a small Holocaust memorial, the Deportations Memorial, at the foot of Fort Saint-Jean.

Grande Synagogue de Marseille
Consistoire Israélite de Marseille
117-119 rue breteuil
13006 Marseille

Marseille City Guide

Nice

Jewish Provence Nice synagogue CC Jesmar

©Creative Commons license, attribution Jesmar

Nice has an active Jewish community and a Grand Synagogue with beautiful stained-glass windows. The cemetery contains graves dating back to 1626.

Additional Reading: Nice’s Cathedral the Most Russian Spot in France

St-Rémy-de-Provence

Jewish Provence St Rémy cemetery Ministry of Culture

©Ministry of Culture

Outside town is a Jewish cemetery built at the beginning of the 15th century. During September’s Journées du Patrimoine (Heritage Days), it is open once a year when there are guided visits.

Ideas for Your Visit to St Remy

Trets

The Jewish community once lived around the former Rue des Juifs (Street of the Jews), now called Rue Paul-Bert. The ancient synagogue is believed to have been housed in one of the buildings which today line that street, but its exact location is uncertain.

Further Information

More information on visiting Jewish sites in Provence, including directions for a driving tour, can be found on the official French tourism site. You can also find information about Jewish sites throughout France and Europe at J Guide Europe.

Image credits as indicated above.


Keith Van Sickle splits his time between Provence and California. He is the author of the best-selling An Insider’s Guide to Provence. Read more at Life in Provence.

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Keith Van Sickle

Keith and Val Van Sickle made their first trip to Provence decades ago, and it was love at first sight. After that, they came back every year until 2008, when they began a part-time life there, splitting their time between Provence and California.

Over the years, they’ve travelled all over Provence, seeing sights both well-known and obscure. Their French friends have introduced them to favourite restaurants and wineries and picnic spots and taught them funny local expressions (not all for polite company).

Keith now shares this local knowledge in his new book, An Insider’s Guide to Provence. Packed with the Van Sickles’ favourite things to see and do, it’s a must-have for anyone travelling to this glorious corner of France.

Keith previously published two books about the couple's experiences in Provence. One Sip at a Time: Learning to Live in Provence, and Are We French Yet?, both are available from Amazon.

You can see all of Keith’s blog posts at Life in Provence.

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