Provence’s Artisan Treasures: Unearthing the Ceramics and Pottery Makers
Is there something in the Provencal air, in the water, or is it in the earth? Provence’s ceramics industry is a vibrant and integral part of the region’s cultural and economic landscape. It blends traditional craftsmanship with modern innovation, contributing significantly to local heritage and the economy. Below, we explore the history of ceramics and pottery in Provence, including a few of these artisans, and provide practical details for planning a visit, ensuring you’re prepared for an artistic journey.
The Right Ingredients
Provence’s Mediterranean climate and fertile agricultural land are suitable for growing olives, lavender, a wide variety of produce, and grapes for winemaking. The soil varies throughout the region, with abundant clay (argile), which is probably why the area has so many artisan ceramics and pottery makers.
Photo ©ARGILLA 2017
Craftspeople throughout the region produce unique earthenware. However, a few of the most famous centres are Moustiers, Biot, and Vallauris. These old French pottery centers and workshops (ateliers) have existed for centuries. Today, other villages scattered across the Provençal landscape produce exceptional pieces sought after for their functional use and decorative beauty. In the South of France, where the history of earthenware is long and cross-cultural, pottery has become an essential component of the French country lifestyle.
Ceramics vs Pottery
What is the difference between ceramics and pottery?
The word ceramics comes from the Greek “keramos,” which means clay. The term is used for any clay object made of mixtures of soils, regardless of the technique. But the word also suggests the know-how of artisan crafters who work with clay.
Meanwhile, pottery likely comes from the Latin verb “potus,” which means to drink. By extension, the word pottery applies to the container itself. Today, pottery refers to ceramic material, the manufacturing workshop, and even the object itself. For example, we say terracotta pottery.
Photo ©Remember Provence
Historical Context
Discoveries of clay amphoras and other terracotta objects on private and public land in Provence have been archaeologically dated. Some of these objects trace back to even before the Roman era. In Marseille, the Musée des Docks Romains has a collection of archaeological objects unearthed from the Greek and Roman eras, including dolia (large clay amphorae used to transport wine).
During the Middle Ages, expanding Mediterranean trade routes and the need for material transport necessitated a strong ceramics industry. In parallel, religious orders and monastic communities created a demand for specific objects. Ceramic objects from this period were primarily utilitarian.
However, the Renaissance period (14th to 17th centuries) heralded a demand for better materials, impeccable craftsmanship, and beautiful finishes.
Present-day Provencal ceramics, constantly evolving, are a testament to the beauty and creativity of the region. While experimenting with new techniques, glazes, and shapes, modern artists and artisans remain connected to traditional methods, creating inspiring and intriguing pieces.
Christmas Figures
Just east of Marseille, Aubagne is a hotbed of glazed pottery production, thanks to the presence of the river Huveaune. Artisan pottery workshops have existed in Aubagne for at least a century, as clay is found readily in the local soil. Some large family factories still exist, such as the Ravel pottery jars specialist or Sicard establishments, which are creators of the famous cicada. Aubagne is also recognized for the work of its local santonniers, the makers of the small clay figures that appear in Provencal Christmas nativity scenes. Every summer, a large ceramics market takes place in Aubagne.
A real santon of Provence is fashioned and painted by hand in clay. This traditional craft for the Provencal nativity creche continues throughout southern France, in a territory corresponding to the influence of Occitan culture. There is a high concentration of santonniers in Aubagne, Marseille, Aix en Provence, and Arles.
Holiday Shopping: Santons from Provence
Gorgeous Glazes in the Vaucluse
1998 Marie Pierre and Cyrille Huyghues Despointes launched their ceramics workshop, Atelier Bernex. They had a shared vision to open their ceramics studio. The slightly crazy concept was triggered one spring evening by the light of a glowing ceramic kiln. Marie Pierre and Cyrille brought to the project a passion for creation from their backgrounds in the design and manufacture of furniture.
Photo ©Atelier Bernex
Atelier Bernex designs are contemporary, and the pieces are finished with bright, customized glazes. The company sells 80% of its production to boutiques, hotels, and specialty stores in France and exports to many countries in Europe and worldwide.
Caromb Alchemy and Pottery
The village of Caromb is a place you pass through on your way to somewhere else in the Vaucluse. Caromb has a quiet charisma and, like many Provençal villages, is bathed in the dappled light of ancient plane trees. According to local legends, Caromb was once the haven of alchemists, though today, the only real alchemist is the ceramicist and potter Jean-Noël Peignon.
Joel-Noël Peignon creates beautiful, functional pottery and decorative pieces. Each piece is unique, hand-turned, decorated, and glazed in blue, green, and gold earth tones. Each piece is fired twice, meaning his pottery is heat resistant: microwave, dishwasher, and oven-proof. His workshop is as simple as his tools: clay, a kiln, imagination, and craft.
Photo ©Sue Aran @French Country Adventures
Provençal pottery was, and still is, a part of daily life, especially Jean-Noël’s. If you are lucky, he’ll guide you through his atelier, show you how he glazes pieces, possibly throw a piece on his wheel, and talk about his other artistic endeavours.
Luberon Ceramic Classes and More
Judith Philibert was drawn to the arts early in life. She says that she was never good at school, but the truth is more likely that she is truly an artist. After living and working in Marseille for over two decades, she returned to the countryside near La Motte d’Aigues. Located in la Vallée d’Or (the Golden Valley), it is easy to feel the inspiration that fresh air and nature provide. Down the end of a dirt road, you find Judith Philibert Ceramique with an atelier where she works and welcomes students for regular classes. Working with different clays and glazes, Judith produces lovely, practical ceramics.
Judith Philibert, Ceramique en Luberon (website)
1145 RD37, La Vallée d’Or
84240 La Motte d’Aigues
Forcalquier Artists Open Doors
The association Les Ateliers Forcalquier organizes an annual festival, “Les Ateliers Ouverts, “over a weekend at the end of July. Dedicated to art, this symbolic event in the heart of summer is an excellent occasion to discover Forcalquier and the creative, friendly spirit that is part of the town’s DNA. Every street corner will reveal a new creation in this charming town, recognized for decades as a cradle of artistic life. Artists and craftspeople will open the doors of their shops and studios, inviting you to discover their work.
Many Artistic Reasons to Visit Forcalquier
Photo ©TERRA MEA
Moustiers for Faïence Ceramics
In the 17th century, a clergyman from Faenza, Italy, introduced the art of faïence making to artisans in Moustiers Sainte Marie. This tin-glazed earthenware with intricate, colourful designs often features floral motifs, pastoral scenes, and mythological themes. Once produced for French nobility, these finely decorated dishes, pots, urns, and vases have a white-glazed base. The central production locations for faience in Provence centred around Marseille, Moustiers Sainte Marie, and Varages, another village in the Haut Var.
Head to beautiful Moustiers-Sainte-Marie, where you’ll find several artisans practicing the antique craft of making faïence ceramics.
Photo ©L’Atelier Bondil
The Bondil family has been in business since 1980. Recognized as an “Entreprise du Patrimoine Vivant” (a Living Heritage Company), the atelier has stayed true to the Moustiers production methods dating back to the 17th century. L’Atelier Bondil offers traditional faïence patterns and more contemporary styles made entirely by hand.
Vallauris for Terracotta
Provencal terracotta pottery, made of red clay, includes various products, from utilitarian kitchenware to decorative pieces. Vallauris Golfe-Juan—”city of 100 potters”—is a tourist town on the French Riviera between Antibes and Cannes. Its name (Valauria in Provencal) means “the golden valley.” The city has two parts: the old centre of Vallauris and the seaside section running from the port along the Côte d’Azur towards Antibes. The original pottery of Vallauris is traditional culinary ceramics from the Roman era because of nearby clay deposits.
Italian families from Genoa settled in the city in the 16th century following a deadly epidemic. This timeframe marks the beginning of pottery activity by individual artisans. In the 17th century, the pottery craft activity developed further, becoming a significant economic driver of the city.
Photo ©Remember Provence
The advent of the railway in the 19th century allowed the potters to organize commercial enterprises. They worked in large factories and exported their production. Utensils and kitchen containers become the specialty of Vallauris. This terracotta pottery enamelled with a clear glaze is the distinct “trademark” of the town’s pottery.
However, 20th-century modernization brought a decline in artisanal pottery activity in Vallauris. After WWII, Picasso’s settlement in the city gave new impetus to the pottery of Vallauris. Like a magnet, Picasso’s presence drew artists like Jean Marais and others.
Vallauris was fashionable from 1950-60 as ceramics developed into an art form. The Massier brothers Clément, Delphin, and cousin Jérôme prompted the trend towards ceramics as art in the late 1800s. Since then, the craft has continued, but overall, it has included decorative ceramics and tableware.
Buy Earthenware from Vallauris
Ceramics and Pottery Fairs
ARGILLA is a biennial marketplace for ceramics artists held over a weekend in August. Each year, a country is selected as the event’s thematic focus. This international pottery market and festival is open to the public, and organizers expect as many as 85,000 visitors to Aubagne during those two days.
Photo ©Mia Llauder RETRAT Aubagne ARGILLA 2017
Formed in 1986, Terres de Provence Céramistes & Potiers en Provence Alpes Côte-d’Azur now includes more than half the professional potters in the Provence, Alpes, Côte d’Azur region. It offers 120+ workshops in the region’s six departments. In addition, it organizes dedicated pottery markets on most weekends from April through October. Their website has an interactive map with workshops throughout the region.
Practical Information
Musée des Docks Romains
28 Place Vivaux
13002 Marseille
Telephone: +33 (0)4 91 91 24 62
The museum is closed on Mondays.
Atelier Bernex (website)
124 Chemin de Fanfinette,
84600 Valréas, France
Telephone: +33 (0)4 42 04 79 89
Schedule an appointment in advance.
Poterie de Caromb
2, rue de la Recluse
84330 Caromb
Telephone: +33 (0)4 90 62 39 60
You can also find his work at pottery markets throughout Provence by checking the Terre de Provence website.
Musée de la Faïence (website)
Rue du Seigneur de la Clue,
04360 Moustiers-Sainte-Marie
Musée Magnelli, Musée de la céramique (website)
Place de la Libération,
06220 Vallauris
Argilla France (Facebook Page)
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