Les Tours de Castillon is a Hike Through History in the Alpilles

I had been putting off packing and cleaning, so instead, I decided to hike the Les Tours de Castillon near Le Paradou in the Alpilles. This hiking route has been on my list for quite some time. It’s a short walk with minimal elevation gain, but it offers a glimpse into thousands of years of history. The hike follows the Rocher de la Pène, a small rocky outcrop in the Alpilles. Shortly after leaving the parking lot, you will see the first watchtower of the medieval village of Castillon. Lace up your shoes and join me on this adventure!

The Alpilles

The Alpilles is a mountain range that primarily extends east-west in the Provence region of France. Located in the Bouches-du-Rhône department, the Alpilles, which means “the little Alps,” features dramatic craggy limestone cliffs. Today, this 30-kilometre massif is designated as a regional park, protecting it from development and making it a haven for outdoor enthusiasts. Mountain bikers and gravel bikers enjoy the forestry roads, sharing the space with hikers and long-distance runners.

Over 125 million years ago, a shallow sea covered this entire region. As the continents formed and the water receded, much of the flat land south of the Alpilles turned into marshland. Before canals, dams, and organized drainage systems were built by the State, the Rhône and Durance Rivers frequently overflowed their banks, allowing for the cultivation of some crops and providing good fishing opportunities.

A Fortified Village

Archaeological excavations conducted between 1986 and 1991 uncovered traces of an Iron Age oppidum. In the 1st century BC, an original rampart stretched from north to south. However, the settlement was abandoned around 1 BC during the Roman era. Some of the artifacts discovered during the excavation are on display in Le Paradou’s town hall.

During the Middle Ages, interest in the site grew, partly because of its strategic location in the Alpilles. Initially owned by the Abbey of Montmajour in Fontvieille, the settlement was transferred to the lords of Les Baux in the 11th century as part of the feudal defence system.

Situated on the Rocher de la Pène, this settlement accommodated up to 200 residents across 40 households. It was fortified by an eight-metre-high rampart and featured four guard towers. The Castrum de Castillon served as an essential defensive stronghold, overseeing transportation and safeguarding access through the marshes to the Château des Baux. Today, three of these four towers remain standing.

The village of Castillon was eventually abandoned, and its stones were used as building materials for Ste-Martin-de-Castillon, which became known as Le Paradou in 1796. Runoff from the Alpilles and frequent flooding of the Rhône and Durance Rivers created an extensive marshland in this area. In the 17th century, a Dutch engineer named Jan van Ens made unsuccessful attempts to drain the marsh. It wasn’t until more than two hundred years after he died in 1652 that the marshland was finally drained in 1855.

Hiking Details

Les Tours de Castillon offers two hiking options: a short loop lasting about 1.5 hours and a longer loop of 5.6 km that takes approximately 2.5 hours, depending on your walking pace. This hike is rated easy and has no significant technical challenges. The area is also popular among climbers and features a natural ridgeline.

However, please choose the right day for your walk, ideally in cooler months or early morning, as there is limited shade and it can get very hot. On windy days, the exposed site may be less comfortable, so check the weather forecast before visiting. Here are some hiking tips for the Alpilles.

There are two parking lots for the trail: Chemin Henri Aubert and Chemin de Castillon, which is the easiest access to the climbing wall. Depending on your walking pace, completing the larger loop may take up to 2.5 hours. From the Chemin de Castillon parking area, look for blue markers indicating the trail direction. Follow the trail heading west, and you may spot climbers on your left-hand side.

There is additional information on the Alpilles en Provence website.

Alpilles Castles: A Guide

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Carolyne Kauser-Abbott

With her camera and laptop close at hand, Carolyne has traded in her business suits for the world of freelance writing and blogging. Her first airplane ride at six months of age was her introduction to the exciting world of travel.

While in Provence, Carolyne can be found hiking with friends, riding the hills around the Alpilles or tackling Mont Ventoux. Her attachment to the region resonates in Perfectly Provence this digital magazine that she launched in 2014. This website is an opportunity to explore the best of the Mediterranean lifestyle (food & wine, places to stay, expat stories, books on the region, travel tips, real estate tips and more), through our contributors' articles.

Carolyne writes a food and travel blog Ginger and Nutmeg. Carolyne’s freelance articles can be found in Global Living Magazine, Avenue Magazine and City Palate (Published Travel Articles).