Jill BarthTaste: Food & DrinkWines and Spirits of Provence

Need to Know Côtes du Rhône Essential French Wines

France’s Rhône Valley is significant on the world stage. At roughly three times the size of the Napa Valley, the diversity of this region is staggering. It’s divided into two segments: septendrial (North) and méridionale (South).

The north is more linear: many independent winegrowers, mainly granite soil, dominated by single grape bottlings (Syrah for red, Viognier for white). The climate is moderate, continental.

The south opens the possibilities: independent growers and co-ops, diverse blends, many soils—clay, calcareous, sand and the famous galet. The climate is Mediterranean. Culturally it’s Provençal. Original blog post by Jill Barth at L’Occasion

Northern Rhône Valley

The northern Rhône Valley experiences a cooler climate, and vineyards are knitted along sharp-toothed hillsides with stony soil. The river is down there, and alongside it, the vines are up here. Vineyards are often terraced to lift out of the granite soil and gain intimacy with the sun. 

South of France’s gastronomic capital Lyon is Vienne, which is considered the official start of the Rhône wine region. Running from Vienne to Valence, the northern section of the Rhône Valley stretches 65 kilometres (40 miles). With 2800+ hectares of vines under cultivation, the Northern Rhône valley is small compared to many French wine regions, including nearby Châteauneuf-du-Pape. However, the magical combination of steep, terraced vineyards, temperate weather, and adapted grapes results in excellent wines.

There are only a few varietals allowed within the Northern Rhône appellations. Syrah is the only red wine grape with viognier, marsanne and roussanne for white wines. This section of the Rhône Valley includes eight (8) appellations d’origine contrôlée (AOC).

Northern Rhône AOCs

Côte Rôtie has the steepest slopes and sought-after syrah red wines. Jill mentioned in an earlier article that the syrah grapes love this particular sun-baked, south-facing slope.

Condrieu produces exclusively white wines with viognier grapes. The soil of crushed granite and clay, along with enough wind and sun are perfect terroir for these grapes. Some wines from this AOC are suitable for ageing, but not all. Enjoy these crisp, low-acid wines with seafood.

Château-Grillet is both the name of an appellation and the only vineyard within its boundaries. Established in 1936, this AOC estate produces white wines with exclusively viognier grapes.

Saint Joseph is the largest area with some 1,200 hectares of vines of primarily syrah grapes and wines celebrated for their reflection of the terroir. Generally, these wines are modestly priced relative to Hermitage and Côte Rotie production. The Saint Joseph appellation has expanded from just six (6) communes in 1956 to over 100 growers. Although, enthusiasts feel that the best wines come from vineyards within the original AOC footprint. These wines typically require less ageing than those from Hermitage and Côte Rotie.

Read: Pioneering Winemaker Chapoutier puts Braille on their Wine Label.

Hermitage is a tiny AOC with only 140 hectares of vineyards, but the wines are renowned for their long-lasting qualities. The vines planted in granite soil on south-facing slopes benefit from maximum sunshine and enough breeze. Syrah grapes feature predominately in the red wines, although small percentages of marsanne and roussanne grapes are permitted within the AOC regulations. It is possible to age these robust red wines for up to 30 years. Approximately one-third of the Hermitage production is a white wine with primarily Marsanne grapes.

Additional read: Northern Rhone Wines and the Allure of Hermitage

Crozes-Hermitage, located on the eastern bank of the Rhône, has a large production that eclipses the other seven (7) AOCs in the region. The majority of the output is syrah red wines with about 10% white wines. Experts generally agree that the Crozes-Hermitage wines lack the complexity of those from Hermitage to the north.

Cornas is the smallest of the appellations, with only 131 hectares of vineyards producing exclusively red wines from syrah grapes. Cornas wines are robust, bold and highly tannic, perhaps keeping with the Celtic origins of the town’s name -“burnt land.” The appellation dates from 1938. The vineyards with the best ratings sit on the hillside behind the village of Cornas.

Saint-Péray is the southernmost appellation and may not have the same name recognition as its neighbours. However, this AOC, first established in 1936, produces sparkling and white wines exclusively. Sparkling wines made following the méthode champenoise are roughly 35% of the total production.

Southern Rhône Valley

As the river valley widens and the steep slopes give way to rolling hills, you have arrived in the Southern Rhône Valley. Encompassing vast geography, the Southern Rhône eclipses the north with 95% of the total production. There are many more grape varietals grown, although each AOC dictates the types and amounts permitted within the guidelines. Except for Châteauneuf-du-Pape, most of these appellations include rosé production.

The principal of biodynamic winemaking starts with the philosophy of taking care of the soil. With that in mind, there are no chemicals used on weeds, on the vines, or the grapes. Jill visited the Montirius vineyard, which is certified by BIODYVIN. This group of almost 150 winemakers in France, Germany, Italy, Portugal and Switzerland all follow established eco-friendly protocols. Learn more about biodynamic wine in the Southern Rhône.

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Jill Barth

Jill Barth

Jill is a writer whose characters make wine, love wine, and live wine. Research for her forthcoming novel–the story of a Provençal winemaking family during the Second World War–has afforded her glorious pleasures: meetings with ambitious French vignerons, travel up and down France in bouncy Renaults, overnights in shuttered châteaux, and many hours as a student of wine with a glass to her lips. In this role, she not only enjoys her own relationship with wine but she also indulges in the life of the French winemaking family that inhabits the pages of her novel.

Jill writes about wine, travel and occasionally yoga (she’s a certified yoga instructor). Her fiction has been featured on NPR and has been published in several literary journals.

Her writings can also be found on her blog L’Occasion.

Follow along with Jill on twitter and instagram.

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