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Hail César! A Favourite Restaurant in the Luberon

Photo credit ©Hotel Restaurant César
Keith Van Sickle · Restaurant Recommendations · Taste

Are you looking for a restaurant recommendation in Provence’s Luberon Valley? My favourite restaurant in the Luberon Valley is César, in Bonnieux. It has excellent, reasonably priced food, a lovely view of the valley, and a charming chef.

Hotel Restaurant César in Bonnieux chef Stephanie

Photo credit ©Hotel Restaurant César

A Creative Chef

This chef, Stéphanie Intem, previously ran a hotel-restaurant in the Vendôme region that was praised by several international guides. She describes herself as “a passionate, self-taught chef and an artist at heart. My restaurant reflects who I am; I created it to be unique and in my image.”

Hotel Restaurant César in Bonnieux

Photo credit ©Hotel Restaurant César

Her dishes are indeed small works of art, a pleasure to see and to eat. She changes her menu with the seasons to take advantage of Provence’s wonderful produce. But some ingredients remain constant throughout the year, like lamb, bull, sea bass, and sea bream. One of her specialties is stuffed vegetables, and her foie gras is available from April through November.

Hotel Restaurant César in Bonnieux farci tomatoes

Photo credit ©Hotel Restaurant César

My favourite is the lamb cooked with honey and spices for seven hours. But the seabass often tempts me, cooked on its skin with olive oil, sitting on a bed of fennel braised with orange and a coriander-and-ginger sauce.

Hotel Restaurant César in Bonnieux - Loup main course

Photo credit ©Hotel Restaurant César

“My strength lies in the contact with my clients,” Stéphanie says, “and the exchanges we have when I take their orders.” I can certainly attest to this, as I unfortunately have food intolerances that make it difficult to eat out. But Stéphanie always takes care of me, adapting dishes so I can enjoy them. She once made me a custom dessert that made my dining companions jealous.

Hotel Restaurant César in Bonnieux dessert

Photo credit ©Keith Van Sickle

There are beautiful views available from some of the tables, so take advantage of them if you can. And don’t be in a rush—everything is made to order, and the staff is small, so take your time to enjoy the food.

César is both a restaurant and a hotel, with recently renovated rooms. A character in several of Marcel Pagnol’s films inspired the restaurant’s name. Fans of Pagnol will enjoy the hotel’s references to his works, like the lobby’s painting of la pomponnette from the film The Baker’s Wife.

Practical Information

Hotel Restaurant César (website)
Place de la Liberté, Bonnieux
Telephone: +33 (0)4 90 75 96 35

More Restaurants We Love in the Luberon


Why Visit Bonnieux?

▼ It’s a great base for exploring the Luberon.

Kathy Wood, a part-time resident of Bonnieux and the full-time owner of European Experiences, shares the following. I love the Luberon, and Bonnieux is a perfect village for exploring this area and for longer day trips to other parts of Provence. Bonnieux has an enviable position on the north side of the Luberon mountain, spilling down a hillside where the Grand Luberon and the Petit Luberon intersect and adjacent to a long, narrow plateau, the Plateau des Claparèdes. A road crosses the plateau at the top of the village before entering a twisting mountain pass to southern Luberon.

From Bonnieux, there are spectacular views across the valley to another mountain range, the Monts de Vaucluse. On a clear day, you can see several other villages on nearby hilltops and even the top of Mont Ventoux, the highest mountain in Provence and over 25 miles away. From the top of the Petit Luberon mountain, you may even spot the edge of the snow-covered Alps in the east.

There are beautiful views from this perched village.

Perched high on a hilltop, Bonnieux was initially built by the Romans for its strategic vantage point. Today, it rewards visitors with breathtaking views of the Luberon Valley. Make your way up through the village’s winding lanes to the 12th-century Église Saint-Pierre at the summit. This spot offers panoramic views of the valley that stretch as far as the eye can see.

Roman history surrounds the village.

Provence’s Luberon is known for its beautiful ‘villages perchés.’ Many are unaware of the existence of Pont Julien, and indeed, some visitors stumble upon it while visiting the most well-known of these villages, Bonnieux. The Pont Julien originally carried the Via Domitia, the Roman Road from Italy to Spain, over the Calavon River. The bridge was built with such precision that the limestone blocks, cut from the Luberon Mountains, needed no mortar. The portals between the arches allowed floodwater through. The continued existence of this wonderful structure testifies to the genius of the Roman engineers who built it.

There are two great markets in Bonnieux.

Market days in the village are on Wednesday and Friday. The Wednesday morning market is small. On Fridays in peak season, July and August,  there can be 100 sellers selling seasonal fruits and vegetables, cheeses, honey, lavender, fabrics, clothes, art, and more.

Discover a contemporary art venue.

Fondation Blachère Art, launched in 2003 by Jean-Paul Blachère, promotes contemporary art from the African continent and its diaspora. Since then, the art centre has hosted nearly 50 art exhibitions and supported 400+ art residencies in Apt and Ngaparou in Senegal. La Fondation Blachère also includes the family’s artwork collection. After a restoration project, the one-time Bonnieux train station now houses a space dedicated to contemporary African art. Read more here

There is an easy bike path nearby.

Luberon à vélo, part of the Mediterranean Cycle Route, is a voie verte (or “greenway”), a paved route for bikers, walkers and rollerbladers. There is a network of these cycle paths in France. Many of the pathways were previously railroad tracks, making them nice and flat. Many sections are suitable for families with younger children. The Véloroute du Calavon begins in Cavaillon and goes to Apt, though it is not yet complete, so there are gaps along the way. Here’s a website with more information.

Visit an ancient stone settlement.

The Enclos des Bories, an ancient settlement of dry stone structures outside Bonnieux. Privately owned, this property is much less visited than the Village des Bories near Gordes.

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Keith Van Sickle

Keith and Val Van Sickle made their first trip to Provence decades ago, and it was love at first sight. After that, they came back every year until 2008, when they began a part-time life there, splitting their time between Provence and California.

Over the years, they’ve travelled all over Provence, seeing sights both well-known and obscure. Their French friends have introduced them to favourite restaurants and wineries and picnic spots and taught them funny local expressions (not all for polite company).

Keith now shares this local knowledge in his new book, An Insider’s Guide to Provence. Packed with the Van Sickles’ favourite things to see and do, it’s a must-have for anyone travelling to this glorious corner of France.

Keith previously published two books about the couple's experiences in Provence. One Sip at a Time: Learning to Live in Provence, and Are We French Yet?, both are available from Amazon.

You can see all of Keith’s blog posts at Life in Provence.

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