Finding My Own Provence: A Stay in Puyricard and Aix-en-Provence

Whether you visit Provence for a short stay or a longer one, settling into a foreign country with a language different from your mother tongue is rarely a straight line. In the guest article below, Karen R shared her story of finding her own Provence during her stay in the region. In the end, Provence is a personal journey.

Three years ago, I found myself staying in Puyricard, just outside Aix-en-Provence, and it turned out to be one of those trips that stays with you long after you have unpacked your suitcase.

I had rented a wonderful apartment on Boulevard Orsini, in Puyricard, and one of the things I loved most was that I could walk down into the centre of the original old village. It was quiet and beautifully French, and I soon began to enjoy the simple pleasure of having a little corner of Provence that felt almost like my own.

Photo credit ©Karen R

Provencal Arrival

My arrival, however, was not quite so serene.

I was met at the apartment by a friend of the owner who, in her very French manner, told me that everything I needed to know was in the manual. There was just one small problem—the manual was entirely in French!

So there I was, with Google Translate, working my way through the instructions for the appliances and trying to establish how everything worked. Then came the rather reassuring advice: “Just walk down the road. You’ll find everything you need.”

And somehow, I did.

Fortunately, there was also Laura, the upstairs neighbour. She turned out to be one of those unexpected people who can transform a holiday. She took me under her wing, drove me around, invited me to dinner and introduced me to parts of Provence I might never have discovered on my own.

Photo credit ©Karen R

Discivering Aix-en-Provence

One highlight was a trip to the beautiful Château La Coste, followed by dinner at a nearby restaurant. Laura was wonderful company, and suddenly my slightly bewildering arrival in Puyricard had turned into something much more personal.

Photo credit ©Perfectly Provence

Each day I caught the bus into Aix-en-Provence. I loved the journey itself, winding down through the countryside with Sainte-Victoire rising in the distance. There was something wonderfully leisurely about travelling that way, watching the Provençal landscape unfold rather than rushing from one destination to another.

Photo credit ©Perfectly Provence

Aix gradually revealed itself to me on foot. I discovered its narrow streets, elegant buildings, fountains, markets and cafés, and, thanks again to Laura’s suggestions, visited the beautiful Hôtel de Caumont. It was exactly the sort of place I loved discovering—a little bit elegant, a little bit historic and completely French.

The markets provided another memorable experience.

At one of the bakery stalls, I apparently committed the unforgivable offence of trying to skip the queue. I was quickly made aware of my mistake! Determined to show that I could manage in French, I turned around and, in my very best French, announced, “Excusez-moi!” before taking my rightful place at the end of the queue.

I could feel the looks.

I suspect I had been identified as the cheeky foreigner.

It was all rather amusing, and one of those tiny moments that become much funnier when remembered later.

I also discovered what I was told was the very first pâtisserie in the old quarter of Provence. There was something irresistible about wandering through those old streets and stumbling upon places with history attached. Of course, sampling the pastries was an important part of the research.

Photo credit ©Karen R

Touring Provence

Another day I joined a tour to Cassis, which was thoroughly worthwhile. The little coastal town was beautiful, but what really stayed with me was the water—so incredibly clear and inviting that it seemed almost impossible not to jump straight in.

Photo credit ©Perfectly Provence

While there, I met a couple from New Jersey who told me about a spa hotel they were staying at in Aix. They spoke so enthusiastically about it that, the following day, I decided to investigate.

That decision led to one of my most indulgent days of the whole trip.

I booked a full day of spa treatments and relaxation. After all the walking and exploring, it was exactly what I needed.

The spa was wonderfully luxurious, with heated pools, jacuzzis, rain showers and different levels of heated relaxation areas. I swam, relaxed and generally forgot about the outside world.

Photo credit ©Karen R

There was also a fabulous lunch—veal, jus and bubbles—which seemed entirely appropriate for the occasion.

By the end of the day I was, quite literally, completely relaxed. I had been massaged, moisturized and thoroughly pampered to the point where I felt almost stewed!

And then came the final part of the experience: I caught the bus home to Puyricard.

There was something rather perfect about that journey. After a day of complete indulgence, I was sitting on a local bus winding its way back through the Provençal countryside, completely content.

Provence Reflections

Looking back three years later, what I remember most about Provence isn’t one particular monument or famous attraction. It is the feeling of the place—the countryside around Mont Sainte-Victoire, the old streets of Aix, the markets, the pastries, the unexpected kindness of Laura, the little misunderstandings and humorous moments, and the freedom of having a small apartment in Puyricard to return to each evening.

I had arrived as a visitor, slightly bewildered by a French instruction manual.

I left feeling that, for a little while, I had lived a small piece of Provençal life.

Karen R is an Australian traveller who loves getting beneath the surface of a destination—wandering through villages, discovering local markets, trying the food and seeing where an unexpected conversation might lead. She has a particular affection for Provence, where a holiday in Puyricard three years ago left her with wonderful memories and a desire to return.

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