Eating My Way Through Provence My Favourite Restaurants in Les Alpilles

If you really want to get to know a place, start with what’s on the plate. During my recent trip through Provence, I followed my appetite across markets, bistros, and white-tablecloth restaurants — and each meal felt like a little window into the region’s soul. The food wasn’t just delicious; it was rooted. Honest. The kind of eating that sticks with you — not because it was fancy (though some of it was), but because it felt deeply local. Below are a few of my favourite restaurants in Les Alpilles.

Provence: Sunshine on a Plate

In Provence, everything feels warmer — the light, the people, the food. In the majestic setting of the Alpilles, between Avignon and Arles, nestles a gem of a city: Saint-Rémy de Provence. Private mansions from the Renaissance and 18th century, beautifully restored homes, chapels, and convents line the winding streets of the historic center. Shaded boulevards, squares adorned with old fountains and the terraces of the cafés and restaurants are all invitations to enjoy the Provençal way of life.

Photo credit ©Tetes d’Ail website

In Saint-Rémy-de-Provence, I had some of my favourite restaurant meals.

Bar Tabac des Alpilles, also known as Les Comptoirs du Gigot, is a bona fide local institution, having operated since the 1950s as one of the village’s oldest eateries. Loved equally by longtime Saint-Rémois residents and travellers, it combines the nostalgic tabac and café vibe with hearty Provençal cuisine. The venue exudes a laid-back, convivial atmosphere, featuring rustic wooden beams, exposed brick walls, and an open terrace buzzing with locals of all ages. Indoors and out, the ambiance evokes the daily rhythms of Provençal life—from early morning coffees to post‑work apéritifs.

Photo credit ©Martine Bertin-Peterson

At a recent group dinner, I opted for the restaurant’s signature dish: slow-roasted leg of lamb, carved on the bone, served with gratin dauphinois and a garlicky salad. It’s a customer favourite (you can ask for seconds) – and it defines the dining identity of the place. On another occasion, I ordered the beef tartare. Served with piping-hot frites (French fries), it was slightly spicy (as requested) and absolutely delicious. I am not usually a dessert eater, but watching the passing parade of pastry tarts and pavlovas (meringue filled with fruit) made me strongly reconsider. The wine list skews to Provençal crus. Owner Patrick and his staff will offer suggestions to meet your taste and wallet. Reservations, by phone only, are strongly recommended.

Classic Bistro Fare

Nestled in the center of town, Bistrot de Saint‑Rémy offers a contemporary take on classic Provençal cuisine. The bistro attracts both locals and tourists who are seeking upscale dining with an authentic touch. After a Wednesday morning at the market, it’s one of my favourites for lunch, offering a relaxed yet stylish atmosphere. The well-priced 3-course lunch menu changes with the season. You might find a garlicky Provençal fish soup, duck breast with a lavender sauce or grilled lamb chops with ratatouille. I thoroughly enjoyed my escargot starter and the perfectly cooked cod, accompanied by tender peas and cherries. If the weather is pleasant, the terrace offers shade and excellent people-watching.

Photo credit ©Martine Bertin-Peterson

Les Alpilles Delicious

When I was ready for something more refined, I had several stand-out dinners at La Table d’Yvan. The setting alone — a courtyard tucked behind a stone farmhouse — was enough to make me stay for hours. Each evening, Chef Yvan presents a single, varied, multi-course, prix fixe meal. Diners can find out what’s on the menu when they call for reservations. The chef’s signature starter is always a trio on a theme – a trio of scallops, a trio of quail, a trio of asparagus, and so on. A main course of cod over a puree of carrots was beautifully presented and tasted like the garden had been picked that morning. Dessert is also a trio on a theme- red fruit, chocolate, and so on. I loved the trio of apricot flavours I had one evening, but the chocolate-themed trio another evening made my palate sing!

Photo credit ©Martine Bertin-Peterson

Traditional Provençal Cuisine

Tucked away just off the bustling streets of Saint-Rémy-de-Provence, Les Têtes d’Ail, a fairly recent addition to the Saint-Rémy dining scene, offers a dining experience that brings a contemporary edge to Provençal cuisine. A quirky name, which translates to “The Heads of Garlic,” hints at the restaurant’s playful approach to traditional French flavours. The small terrace offers a pleasant dining experience, ideal for savouring warm Provençal nights under the stars.

Photo credit ©Martine Bertin-Peterson

Given the restaurant’s name, I had to order the confit garlic head as a starter. My main course, a duo of grilled swordfish and sea bass, was served over a bed of eggplant, accompanied by a Parmesan tuile on the side. The dish was light, flavorful and very nicely plated. The restaurant was full the evening I dined there. Les Têtes d’Ail seems like a very popular place for locals and tourists alike; however, the night I was there, the service was a bit perfunctory and could have been warmer and more accommodating.

Photo credit ©Martine Bertin-Peterson

What Stuck With Me

In Provence, the food is sunlit — olive oil, tomatoes, wild herbs, lamb. Even the fancier meals didn’t feel overdone. They felt like someone took great ingredients, respected them, and served them with care.

I didn’t come back with recipes (yet), but I came back with a solid sense of what it means to cook and eat from somewhere. And sometimes that’s the best souvenir of all.

Photo credit ©Martine Bertin-Peterson

Address Book: My Favourite Restaurants in Les Alpilles

Bar Tabac des Alpilles (no website)
21 Boulevard Victor Hugo,
13210 Saint-Rémy-de-Provence
Telephone: +33 (0)4 90 92 02 17
Open daily
Facebook Page

Le Bistrot de Saint-Rémy (website)
12 Boulevard Gambetta,
13210 Saint-Rémy-de-Provence
Telephone: +33 (0)6 81 06 34 58

La Table d’Yvan (website)
at Mas des Carassins
1 Chemain Gaulois,
13210 Saint-Rémy-de-Provence
Telephone: +33 (0)4 90 92 15 48

Restaurant Têtes d’Ail (website)
6 Boulevard Marceau,
13210 Saint-Rémy-de-Provence
Telephone: +33 (0)4 90 92 18 72

Visitor’s Guide to the Alpilles Villages

Martine Bertin-Peterson

Goût et Voyage, LLC was founded by Martine Bertin-Peterson to bring together her lifetime passions of travel, cooking and culture. Creating unforgettable memories, Martine serves as the escort for all Goût et Voyage culinary travel adventures and serves as chef de cuisine for customized cooking classes at home in Bucks County, PA. 
 
Martine’s background and experience are as wide-ranging as her interests. She has decades of cooking experience gained through formal and informal cooking courses in the United States, France and Italy. Born in France and fluent in 5 languages, Martine has travelled to more than 50 countries across 5 continents. She has escorted travel groups throughout Europe and Latin America over the past 25+ years and for the past 5 years has focused on creating unique gourmet experiences for her clients in Provence. 

President of the Alliance Française of Doylestown, PA. Martine currently resides in Pennsylvania with her husband who, along with her NYC-based daughter, are regular and willing subjects for her travel and culinary adventures.