Calisson d’Aix the Sweet Almond Candy of Provence

Candy might not be the reason you decide to visit Aix-en-Provence, but don’t leave town without sampling the famous Calisson d’Aix. These sweets, made with ground, local almonds (sweet and bitter) and a fruit paste blend of melon confit (preserved in sugar) and orange peel, were officially recognized as part of the city’s heritage in 1990. Traditional calisson has three layers: thin host paper on the bottom, the fruit-almond mixture and a light coating of royal icing on top. Typically, a soft, diamond-shaped calisson has a similar taste to marzipan, although not as sweet, in my opinion.

In the words of French novelist and filmmaker Marcel Pagnol,

“le calisson d’Aix est un mélange de quatre tiers: un tiers d’amandes, un tiers de fruits confits, un tiers de sucre et surtout un tiers de savoir-faire et d’amour du travail bien fait.”

“The Calisson d’Aix is a mixture of four-thirds: one-third almonds, one-third fruit confit, one-third sugar, and mostly a third savoir-faire and the love of work well done.”

Origins, Legends and Benedictions

There are so many obvious Italian influences in the South of France (architecture, cuisine, language, religious symbols) that it is entirely believable that the calisson recipe, or a version of it, originated from Italy. A Medieval Latin text from the 12th century used the word calisone in reference to a cake made with almonds and flour. According to the World Public Library, “Among the first known references to calissons was in Martino di Canale’s Chronicle of the Venetians in 1275.”

What came first the Queen or the Plague?

Visit the statue at the end of the Cours Mirabeau in Aix-en-Provence honouring the man who was known as Good King René. Roi René of Anjou’s family lineage stretched from Sicily and Naples (his father, Duke Louis II, held the title of King of Sicily) to modern-day Spain (his mother Yolanda of Aragon). Jeanne de Laval was 21 years old when they married Abbey of St. Nicholas in Angers, in September 1454. Legend has it that calissons were served at their wedding, and the new queen (his second wife) smiled.

The problem with that story is the almond crop in Provence was established later in the 16th century. Although, it is possible that the almonds were imported as there was much trade with merchants from Italy.

Provence was ravaged by the plague several times starting in 1348, with the worst and most deadly episode occurring in 1629. To this day, in the old town of Aix-en-Provence, there are visible niches at the corners of some streets. Before the Revolution, these were spots for small statues of the Virgin Mary. One strategy to reduce the spread of the plague was to isolate the sick and restrict movement and human interaction as much as possible. These little statues allowed the residents of Aix to pray from their homes. Visit Aix-en-Provence on a Le Visible est Invisible walking tour to understand more about Provence during this era.

Calissons d'Aix

A truly enjoyable treat to make and connect with bakers long ago. Patience will be your reward if you can let them sit overnight to set. And while this is a traditional recipe, it is by no means easy to master. So even if it doesn’t look perfect, it will taste just as delicious. Served alongside afternoon tea or at the end of a delicious evening meal, these sweet delicate Calissons will be a welcome addition to your baking repertoire.

Check out this recipe

“Calissons are served three times a year – on Sept. 1, Christmas and Easter – at Notre Dame de la Seds to commemorate the end of the great plague of 1630. With its bottom layer of rice or azym, paper, the calisson replaces the host and is believed to guard against sudden death and contagion. The priest offers the sweetmeats from his chalice, repeating three times ‘venite ad calicem’ (come to the chalice). The congregation replies, thrice, with the Provencal ‘venes toui i calissoun’ (we are coming).” Excerpt, from “Provence’s Almond Calissons” (NY Times Travel ).

On the first Sunday in September, there is an annual mass celebrated at the church of St Jean de Malte to bless the calisson. The tradition began in 1630 and continued until the French Revolution. The practice was revived in 1995. The pageantry includes a parade through the ancient streets of Aix with participants wearing traditional dresses. The show is followed by a church service to celebrate the end of the plague and the blessing of this sweet candy. You can find all the details on the annual Bénédiction des Calissons d’Aix-en-Provence here.

Calissons d'Aix a Sweet Candy

This recipe takes time, but it's a fun culinary project with a sweet result. You need to leave enough time (about a week) for the fruit paste to reach the right consistency.

Check out this recipe

What is Inside?

Regardless of the exact origin, the recipe for Calisson d’Aix is controlled today by only a handful of manufacturers (Calissonniers). The following is an excerpt from Anne-Marie Simmon’s book Taking Root in Provence:

“The Calisson d’Aix is made following a traditional recipe: almonds are ground into flour and then combined with candied local melon and sugar. The paste is shaped and spread on a paper-thin wafer, covered in whipped egg whites and sugar and baked at exactly 130°C for exactly 15 minutes. The seven confectioners operating in Aix who bake calisson must use identical ingredients for 99% of the recipe. The 1% personalized ingredient is what will make each “confiserie” slightly different from its competitors. Calisson Roy René adds 1% orange rind. Another manufacturer adds vanilla.”

Today, you can find many calisson variations for sale with different flavours and coloured icings. However, the original “Calisson d’Aix” — first created in the 17th century — are produced following strict guidelines. These include:

Location: For the manufacturer to display the official name, they must be located within the Indication géographique protégée (IGP) in one of these seven (7) communes: Aix-en-Provence, Eguilles, Meyreuil, St Marc Jaumegarde, Le Tholonet, Venelles or Vauvenargues.

Ingredients: According to Le Roy René’s website, “The calisson Aix must be manufactured from crushed candied fruit and almonds blanched complemented by sugar syrup. The blanched almonds (minimum 32% of the pulp) carefully mixed candied fruit are crushed. Candied fruits account for 30% minimum of the dough. Melon, the fruit mainly used (80% of candied fruit), is cultivated exclusively in Provence.”

Size and shape: The Calisson d’Aix is oblong and pointed at both ends. The calisson must have three distinct layers, a slightly granular texture, and no unnatural colouring or preservatives.

Calisson d'Aix

This recipe was provided by a friend, who has tried and perfected it over the years. This is her version of the traditional candy. The Feuille d’hostie or unleavened host paper, is readily available in France. In other countries, you need to go to specialty cooking stores or Amazon (gourmet food section) for wafer paper.

Check out this recipe

Who are the Confectioners?

These are the calissoniers who are members of the l’Union des Fabricants du Calisson d’Aix (UFCA) and adhere to the standards of production.

Pâtisserie – Confiserie Béchard
12 cours Mirabeau
Aix-en-Provence, France 13100
Tel: +33 (0) 4 42 26 06 78

Confiserie Léonard Parli (since 1874)
35 avenue Victor Hugo
13100 Aix-en-Provence
Tel: +33 (0)4 42 26 05 71

The factory
95 rue Famille Laurens
Pôle d’Activité des Milles – Sortie n°3
13290 Aix en Provence
Tel: +33 (0)4 42 52 19 20

Confiserie du Roy René (since 1920)
There are several boutiques in France
11 Rue Gaston de Saporta,
13100 Aix-en-Provence
Tel: +33 (0)4 42 26 67 86
Factory and Museum
5380 Route d’Avignon,
13089 Aix-en-Provence
Tel: +33 (0)4 42 39 29 90

Confiserie Bremond (since 1830)
16 Ter Rue d’Italie
13100 Aix-en-Provence
Tel: +33 (0)4 92 72 66 91

Chocolaterie Puyricard (since 1960)
Avenue Georges de Fabry
13540 Puyricard
Tel: +33 (0)4 42 28 18 18
You can visit the factory or participate in a workshop

Lou Calissoun
You can find them in the market in Aix (Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday)
9, avenue du Dr Bertrand
Quartier Loubassane
13090 Aix-en-Provence
Tel:+ 33 (0)4 42 63 11 51

Confiserie Genis
1 Rue Gaston de Saporta
13100 Aix-en-Provence
Tel: +33 (0)4 42 23 30 64

Pâtisserie Weibel (since 1954)
2 rue Chabrier
13100 Aix-en-Provence
Tel: +33 (0) 4 42 23 33 21

Confiserie Nouvelle (Hospital)
Petite Calade montée Avignon
2620 chemin Maliverny
Aix-en-Provence

Confiserie Fruidoraix (since 1880)
295 Rue Agate,
13510 Éguilles
Tel: +33 (0)4 42 52 51 80

Confiserie d’Entrecasteaux (since 1889)
40, Impasse Emeri, Pole d’Activite les Jalassières,
13510 Eguilles

NOTE: Many of these companies ship internationally.

Sweet calisson dreams!