Black Truffle Season in Provence: Top Markets and More for Food Lovers

Did you know that Provence is a significant global producer of black truffles? Specifically, the Vaucluse department, which has some 500 producers. When we include the Drôme Provencal, 80% of France’s black truffles come from this geographic area. While China remains the world’s largest producer of truffles, chefs and food connoisseurs prefer French black truffles for their high quality. In the article below, we provide details on the Tuber Melanosporum (black truffle) season, how the truffles are found (hunted), truffle markets and festivals, and some recipe ideas too. Let’s discover the “black diamond” or rabasse, the Provencal word for truffle.

Learn the Lingo in French
When is Black Truffle Season?
Why Are Black Truffles So Expensive?
How Do Black Truffles Grow?
Truffle Markets in Provence
Truffles and Religion
Black Truffle Festivals
Hunting for Truffles
Cooking with Black Truffles
More Truffle Resources in Provence

Learn the Lingo in French

Truffle = la truffe (rabasse in Provencal)
A grove or plantation = la truffière
The truffle hunter = Le caveur truffière or rabassier

When is Black Truffle Season?

Brr, it’s cold outside! We were fortunate to have a sunny winter day for our truffle hunting initiation in the Vaucluse, as often searching for the precious crop takes place in the early morning hours when there is frost on the ground and bone-chilling fog. Black truffle season in Provence runs from mid-November to mid-March. While peak demand is during the December holiday season, our truffle guide shared that he feels the best quality truffles appear in January and February.

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Why Are Black Truffles So Expensive?

Like any other commodity market, pricing for black truffles varies with supply and quality. But this is no ordinary trade. The prized black truffles mature in the coldest, darkest months of the year (November-March), and regardless of the weather, truffle hunters and their dogs venture out into the fields, dedicated to uncovering these precious gems. Their work encompasses a range of tasks, including marketing, sales, packaging, planning, pruning, and a vigilant guard against predators of both the animal and human varieties.

Good quality truffles can command wholesale prices between 400 and 1000 €/kilogram, and retail buyers should expect to pay two or three times that number. With the prospect of such high returns, it’s no wonder truffle hunters guard their supply locations as a closely held secret, adding an element of mystery to the truffle trade.

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How Do Black Truffles Grow?

Black truffles require specific conditions for growth, including chalky, limestone soil with a pH of 7.5 to 8.5, ample sunlight, and suitable seasonal temperatures. Mycorrhizal fungi depend on host trees, primarily oak varieties, though they can also associate with hazelnut, pine, and lime trees. Under optimal conditions, truffles typically take 7 to 8 years to develop at the base of their host tree.

Truffle Markets in Provence

Summer truffles (Tuber Aestivum) are more commonly found in markets today than in the past. While this summer variety may share a connection with the “black diamond” truffle, its flavour is not as distinct. Additionally, there is a notable price difference between summer and winter truffles. During peak season, black truffles can sell for around ten times the price per kilogram compared to summer truffles.

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Between November and early March, there are weekly truffle markets in the following locations:

MONDAYS
Chamaret

TUESDAYS
Vaison la Romaine
Grignan
St Paul Trois Châteaux

WEDNESDAYS
Valréas

THURSDAYS
Aups
Nyons

FRIDAYS
Carpentras
Suze la Rousse

SATURDAYS
Apt
Richerenches

Market Tip:

Arrive early, as the black truffle supply is limited. These markets feature many other local products such as honey, goat cheese, charcuterie, olives, and handicrafts.

Truffles and Religion

If you are visiting Provence in January, plan to attend the Messe des Truffes in Richerenches. The truffle-centric festivities occur on the third Sunday of the month, which also happens to be the Fête de Saint Antoine. The festival has been running for over two decades; it includes a blessing of truffles in l’Église Saint-Denis. The church service gets started a little after 10 am, but don’t count on snagging a place inside. The village installs a video screen (outside) for the standing-room-only crowd.

Following the religious part is a public auction of the truffles offered by the rabissers (truffle farmers), in place of communion, to the church. The Confrérie du Diamant Noir et de la Gastronomie – an association of 300+ people passionate about both black truffles and related gastronomy – presides over the auction. The church is the recipient of the funds raised during the bidding.

Once the formal part of the day is over, it’s time for a truffle-themed lunch and a glass of local wine.

Here is a video clip of the festivities.

Black Truffle Festivals

The fourth Sunday in January, the Fête de la Truffe Noire d’Aups is a festival surrounding the black truffle. The musty aroma of black fungi permeates the village. The festival includes a truffle market along with other local Provencal culinary delights. Take time to visit the Maison de la Truffe, dedicated to all things truffle. This space includes a shop, museum and discovery area. The facility closes on Sundays, and the hours change seasonally, so please check the website. The village of Aups even has a summer truffle festival.

Since 1994, the Uzès Truffle Festival – Fête de la Truffe – takes place over a weekend in mid-January. The festivities draw curious crowds, gourmet aficionados, and several pigs with a strong sense of smell. Festival events kick off on Friday night with a Soirée Vigneronne (Winegrowers’ Evening ) when local winemakers present their wines. Saturday evening, la Soirée Bodega, is a chance to taste truffle dishes paired with wines from the Cuvées of the Vignerons du Duché d’Uzès in a casual setting. On Sunday morning, festival activities begin early with the whole day dedicated to the “black diamond.”

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Hunting for Truffles

While you could get lucky and stumble upon a “black diamond,” the reality is that finding black truffles requires skill and expertise. One of the clues that a hunter looks for is a lack of vegetation around the base of a tree, where the ground appears dry and almost burnt. Truffles thrive in well-drained soil with a high limestone content and a neutral or slightly alkaline PH. However, it is only the critical eye that recognizes a truffle fly and follows its flight path. These flies are attracted to the aroma of the truffles and lay their eggs in the soil above them, aiding in the detection process.

For centuries in Italy and France, both dogs and pigs have been used to find truffles. Female pigs possess an innate ability to sniff out this “black gold,” as they can detect a scent similar to a hormone emitted by male boars, requiring no special training. However, the challenge with pigs is that they often enjoy eating truffles, which can lead to competition between the pig and the rabassier (truffle harvester) over who gets to the fungi first.

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In contrast, training dogs to locate prized truffles is similar to the methods used in training K9 police dogs. These dogs are not motivated by the desire to eat the truffles; the thrill of the hunt drives them.

Operating Truffe Noire de Haute-Provence is a full-time undertaking for the couple who relocated from the Alps to southern France. We asked them about their truffle-hunting dogs. They typically have several dogs of different ages. Their training methodology uses voice and hand commands, no collars or leads. Training begins from the puppy stage, with both the human trainer and older dogs. By two, the young dog is usually ready to work with one partner in the field.

It is incredible to see these animals work; they can pick up the scent of a truffle, whether it is at the depth of a couple of centimetres or deeper. They start digging in the spot, and then back off when commanded, allowing the rabassier access to the truffle.

Cooking with Black Truffles

Since the 18th century, the black diamond (le diamant noir) has been a luxury gourmet ingredient in France. The appetite for black truffles was helped by the fact that King Francois 1 insisted that truffles be served in his court, at every meal. Try these recipes and feel like royalty, too!

Mushroom and Black Truffle Omelette

Delicious and easy a quick lunchtime meal or light dinner.

Check out this recipe

Black Truffle Scrambled Eggs (Brouillade aux Truffes)

The hardest part of this recipe might be getting your hands on some fresh black truffles. Sophie used the traditional bain-marie method for super creamy and fluffy scrambled eggs.

Check out this recipe

Truffled Devilled Eggs

Devilled eggs are really appetizers with a sightly bit old fashioned touch until you add truffles!

Check out this recipe

Poulet Forêt aux Truffe

Succulent chicken cooked in rich, deep-flavoured Madeira wine, mushrooms, and shallots in a cream sauce decadently adorned with earthy, fragrant truffles.

Check out this recipe

Risotto with Black Truffles

Risotto is a terrific dinner party dish, easy to prepare in front of your guests while they drink a cocktail.

Check out this recipe

Crushed Black Truffle Mash Potatoes

Easy to make and a really tasty side dish.

Check out this recipe

More Truffle Resources in Provence

Maison de la Truffe et du Vin du Luberon (website)
Place de l’horloge
84560 Ménerbes, France
Telephone: +33 (0)4 90 72 38 37

Musée de la Truffe du Ventoux
1, Place Jean Gabert
84390 Monieux

Maison de la Truffe (website)
Place Martin Bidouré
83630 Aups

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Carolyne Kauser-Abbott

With her camera and laptop close at hand, Carolyne has traded in her business suits for the world of freelance writing and blogging. Her first airplane ride at six months of age was her introduction to the exciting world of travel.

While in Provence, Carolyne can be found hiking with friends, riding the hills around the Alpilles or tackling Mont Ventoux. Her attachment to the region resonates in Perfectly Provence this digital magazine that she launched in 2014. This website is an opportunity to explore the best of the Mediterranean lifestyle (food & wine, places to stay, expat stories, books on the region, travel tips, real estate tips and more), through our contributors' articles.

Carolyne writes a food and travel blog Ginger and Nutmeg. Carolyne’s freelance articles can be found in Global Living Magazine, Avenue Magazine and City Palate (Published Travel Articles).