Alpilles Essentials: Top 10 Must-See While in this Area of Provence

The Alpilles (miniature Alps) run from east to west for 30 kilometres, starting at the edge of the Durance River and the town of Orgon to the western edge near Fontvieille. Although the Alpilles are not high, with a maximum height of 498 metres, they are dramatic with jagged limestone peaks. Established in 2007, the Parc Naturel Régional des Alpilles covers the mountain range and its flanks. As a protected natural area, there are restrictions on construction and park usage. In this article, we highlight our Alpilles essentials and the top 10 suggestions for must-see locations while visiting the area.

Alpilles Need to Know

Charming villages, vineyards, and olive groves surround the mountain range. Dotted with rugged trails, the Alpilles are a paradise for hikers and mountain bikers. Climbers love the craggy cliffs. A series of rolling hills offers excellent training for road cyclists looking for vertical challenges. The ridge is a jagged stone line carved by centuries of wind currents and is a magnet for glider pilots.

Visitor’s Guide to the Village of the Alpilles

A Short Geography Lesson

Provence-Alpes-Côte d’Azur (short form: PACA) refers to the geographic region of France that encompasses the entire southeastern corner of the country. It is an administrative region with six (6) departments, including Alpes-de-Haute-Provence, Alpes-Maritimes, Bouches-du-Rhône, Hautes-Alpes, Var, and Vaucluse. Within the departments are recognizable areas, such as the Rhône Valley, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Luberon, Côte d’Azur/French Riviera, and Camargue. The capital of PACA is Marseille, France’s second-largest city. Tourism and marketing agencies often refer to Provence as the région sud, southern region, which is a bit confusing as the southwest part of the country is also south.

The PACA region has a Mediterranean climate, suitable agricultural land, good transportation infrastructure with autoroutes and rail options, and two international airports (Marseille and Nice). Provence has big cities, hilltop villages, historical sites, beaches, and mountain peaks, making it an attractive region to visit and live in. Even in a lifetime, it would be nearly impossible to see the whole area, so here are a few things we don’t want you to miss in the Alpilles.

Try this Fun Car Rally in the Alpilles

Alpilles Essentials Top 10

#1: The view from Notre-Dame de Beauregard

Most people drive by Orgon without entering the village, which is unfortunate as there is much history behind the old rampart walls. Orgon is also known for its fossils, estimated at 130 million years old. The Notre Dame de Beauregard church you see today was once a Celto-Ligurian oppidum and later a tiny hermitage before becoming a convent for some time. Head up the steep hill and park by the church to see the Durance River and the Luberon massif. Local’s tip: walk through the stone wall at the end of teh parking lot and up to the table d’orientation (orientation table) for the sweeping vista of the Alpilles.

#2: Les Baux de Provence

Atop the Alpilles sits the remains of the medieval fortress of Les Baux, once one of the mightiest in France. Visitors will enjoy magnificent views—on a clear day, and you can see the Mediterranean Sea. There are demonstrations of ancient weapons like catapults and trebuchets to keep the kids entertained. You reach the fortress by walking along the cobblestone streets of the tiny village of Les Baux, which is full of interesting shops and cafés.

Built on a huge rock and surrounded by a fortified town, Les Baux de Provence is the most significant and best-known Alpilles chateaux. It offers magnificent views over the surrounding landscape. Purchase a combination ticket with Carrières de Lumières.

#3: Maussane’s Central Plaza

Maussane-les-Alpilles sits at the foot of the Alpilles Mountains, near the famous château of Les Baux-de-Provence. The area is rich with olive groves, and Maussane makes an excellent starting point for bike rides. Spend some time in Maussane’s big central square, Place Joseph Laugier, next to the church. It’s filled with tables from the surrounding cafés and restaurants, set around the central fountain. The square is the perfect place for a relaxing meal or a drink, and you’ll see people enjoying it at any hour of the day.

#4: Fontvieille’s Windmills

Located down the hill from Les Baux de Provence, Fontvieille is the closest of the Alpilles villages to Arles. Today, in Fontvieille, there is a population of roughly 3,500 residents. However, the town of Fontvieille was only officially after the end of the French Revolution in 1799.

For many years, the demand for the quarried Fontvielle limestone drove the population and economy of this town. Limestone from Fontvieille was used to construct the Roman arena, ramparts and theatre in Arles. Stone was also vital for the Barbegal aqueduct, which supplied water to Arles. Rock quarried and cut in Fontvieille was also used for the nearby Abbey of Montmajour between the 10th and 13th centuries.

St. Pierre Windmill

Inscribed in the stone and fixed to the side of the St. Pierre windmill is a quote by French writer Alphonse Daudet (1840-1897). Although he was born in Nîmes and spent time in both Lyon and Paris, it was here in the Alpilles where he described his affection for Fontvieille and its windmills.

#5: Fontvieille’s Lavoir

Before communal lavoirs, personal washing was done sparingly by the side of rivers or using precious well water. The washerwoman was often the lady of the house or, in wealthy families, the hired help. Laundry was done sparingly, usually collected in humidity-free attics or armoires for many months.

This strenuous task was limited to a few times a year when the town’s washing was done over three days, a tradition called “la grande buée” or “la grande lessive” (the big wash). With biblical references, the three days were purgatory, hell, and heaven. Fontvieille has a beautifully restored lavoir with the typical elements, a stone basin with drainage and flowing water, and a roof providing shade and protection.

#6: Montmajour Abbey

Between Fontvieille and Arles is the Abbey of Montmajour, which is well worth a visit. This impressive Benedictine Abbey began as a humble hermitage in the 10th century, situated on Saint Peter’s Hill outside Arles. As the influence of the religious order magnified, so did the structures on the hillside—the Romanesque church and cloisters date from the 12th century. The Tower of Abbot Pons de l’Orme rose to 26 metres in height after 1369 for defensive purposes, and finally, the 18th century Saint Maur Monastery.

Much of the Abbey’s structure is in ruins today, so the scale is not apparent. However, when the monastery was fully operational, it was the largest in France at 8,000 sq kilometres. In addition, the church was planned to have five additional bays. Climb the tower for the sweeping view of the fields to the south and Arles in the distance, and you may start to understand how Montmajour was once an island surrounded by marshland.

#7: Glanum, an Amazing Site

Evidence from archaeological excavations, which started in 1921, confirms that Glanum was built in three phases. Limestone quarried nearby in the Alpilles was the primary construction material for the buildings and monuments.

Glanum I, the initial settlement by a Celtic tribe, the Salyens, dates from the Iron Age, about 500 BC. Their choice of the site Glanum was deliberate once they discovered a natural spring water source that they believed offered healing powers.

Roman authority and Teutonic military occupation punctuated the time frame for Glanum II (2nd century BC); this was not a period of expansion. In the final phase, Glanum III (1BC to 260AD), the mighty Roman influence is evident as the early colony structures gave way to grander public buildings, which included a forum and public baths. Glanum, the former Roman oppidum protected by its fortified walls, housed a flourishing community. In 260AD, the Franks destroyed Glanum, and the population was forced to resettle on the valley floor, giving rise to St Remy de Provence.

#8: St Remy de Provence Squares

St Remy’s compact, mainly pedestrian historic centre has several beautiful squares where you can relax with friends over a coffee or verre de rosé in one of the many cafes.

Inviting Place Plessier, home to St. Rémy’s Hôtel de Ville, was formerly the garden of an Augustine convent. The graceful Fontaine des Quatre Dauphins was modelled after a similar fountain in Aix-en-Provence’s quartier Mazarin.

Place Favier is a shaded square surrounded by restaurants and the Musée des Alpilles. This square is an excellent place for a light bite or a leisurely drink.

#9: Eygalières Old Village

Eygalières’ setting is idyllic. The village has one busy main street surrounded by homes and dining options. Stroll up the road into the ancient town, and you get the sense that you stepped back in time. Over many years, the town’s elected officials maintained strict controls over the exterior design of homes and building permits. Walk to the top of the old village for views in every direction. Visit the old windmill outside the rampart walls for a panoramic view of the Alpilles, Mont Ventoux and the region.

#10: At Least One Vineyard

Drive through the Alpilles and sample the wines crafted by Vins des Baux de Provence winemakers. Launched in 1995, Appellation d’Origine Protégée (AOP) Les Baux de Provence was a bold step for a group of winemakers. They joined forces to carve out a unique identity in the ocean of, at that time, mediocre Provencal wine. These wineries were previously under the umbrella of the AOP Coteaux d’Aix-en-Provence since 1972. The les Baux vintners felt that their production was blurred in the vast volume produced by that AOP. Protected Designation of Origin Les Baux de Provence was re-established in 1995, reverting to the original appellation formed in 1956. Today, most vineyards in the Alpilles produce AOP wines that are 100% organic.

Discover the Vineyards of the Alpilles

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Carolyne Kauser-Abbott

With her camera and laptop close at hand, Carolyne has traded in her business suits for the world of freelance writing and blogging. Her first airplane ride at six months of age was her introduction to the exciting world of travel.

While in Provence, Carolyne can be found hiking with friends, riding the hills around the Alpilles or tackling Mont Ventoux. Her attachment to the region resonates in Perfectly Provence this digital magazine that she launched in 2014. This website is an opportunity to explore the best of the Mediterranean lifestyle (food & wine, places to stay, expat stories, books on the region, travel tips, real estate tips and more), through our contributors' articles.

Carolyne writes a food and travel blog Ginger and Nutmeg. Carolyne’s freelance articles can be found in Global Living Magazine, Avenue Magazine and City Palate (Published Travel Articles).