Aix-en-Provence Our Top 10 Things to See in the City
Steeped in history, Aix-en-Provence is a captivating city in Provence with a rich past and a roster of illustrious residents. Often known simply as Aix, the city is an ideal urban base for a holiday in the region. While the city has many captivating aspects, this article covers the top 10 things to see during your visit. Aix-en-Provence boasts historical sites, elegant boutiques, gourmet restaurants, and bustling daily markets. We encourage you to meander through the streets, relax on a terrace, and admire the numerous squares and fountains. While this article only scratches the surface of over two millennia of history, we have provided links to further articles for a deeper dive.
A Bit of History
After conquering the hilltop oppidum of Entremont, the Romans, understanding the need for access to fresh water, abandoned the settlement established by the Salyens, a Celtic-Ligurian tribe in 180-170 BC. In roughly 122 BC, the Romans formed a new community named Aquae Sextiae (the Waters of Sextius), a tribute to the highly respected consul Caius Sextius Calvinus.
It wasn’t until 1481 that Aix-en-Provence officially became part of France. However, by 1555, it was a vital administrative city in the French Kingdom. Adorned with sculptured details and statues during the Renaissance, the fountains remain beautiful today.
The city blossomed into an educational hub, legal center, and a beacon of culture. Influenced by the Provençal climate and picturesque surroundings, renowned figures such as Paul Cézanne, Pablo Picasso, Émile Zola, Frédéric Mistral, and Ernest Hemingway were drawn to the city’s cafés, leaving behind a rich legacy in their paintings and writings.
1. Roman Baths
Aquae Sextiae had available natural water sources, including les Etuves and les Bagniers, which supplied warm water for the Roman thermal baths. The remains of these ancient pools are visible at the site of a modern, luxurious spa, the Thermes Sextius.
Thermes Sextius
55 Av. des Thermes
13100 Aix-en-Provence
They offer a full range of spa and beauty services.
2. The City of Water – Fountains
Initially built for domestic requirements and animal husbandry, Aix-en-Provence still has several operational fountains. Discover the fountains of Aix-en-Provence as you wander the streets of the old town. If you follow the order below, it is a walking loop. Beginning at La Rotonde, near the Tourist Office, walk through the Medieval city and the Quartier Mazarin, returning to your starting point.
Aix: Walking Tour of the Fountains
La Rotonde—Perhaps the most iconic fountain is the immense La Rotonde, with its pool 32 meters in diameter and located in the centre of a roundabout. The fountain includes beautifully crafted white marble figures depicting the city’s historical affiliation with neighbouring Marseille and Avignon. The magnificent circular fountain separates the old section from the contemporary part of the city.
Fontaine des Augustins is in Place des Augustins, a busy plaza surrounded by restaurants with terraces.
Fontaine d’Albertas—To reach Place d’Albertas walk up Rue Espariat from Place des Augustins. This cobblestoned plaza, a national monument since 2000, takes its name from the Albertas family from Alba, Italy. The original Fontaine d’Albertas, installed in 1862, no longer worked by 1911.
Fontaine Sanglier—A fountain is decorated with a wild boar in a small enclave called La Place aux Herbes near Place Richelme.
Hotel de Ville—Constructed in 1756 and listed as a historical monument in 1905, the fountain in front of the Hôtel de Ville is known as the Four Seasons.
Fontaine des Trois Ormeaux—Place des Trois Ormeaux is a lovely square intersected by three minor roads. Walk around the octagonal fountain crowned by a cluster of grapes.
Fontaine des Prêcheurs—The Place des Prêcheurs is one of the largest squares in Aix-en-Provence. The fountain between Place des Prêcheurs and Place de la Madeleine was designed by Jean-Pancrace Chastel and constructed in 1758.
Moss-Covered Fountains—Rooted in the streetscape of the Cours Mirabeau are two moss-covered fountains. Built in 1666, the “mossy” fountain – Fontaine moussue – was designed by Jacques Fossé and originally had ornate decorative elements. The Fontaine des Neuf Canons (1651) was intentionally built low to the ground to provide water for sheep from Arles to the Alps.
Fontaine des Quatre Dauphins—Located in Place des Quatres Dauphins, it was constructed in the mid-17th century in the heart of the Quartier Mazarin.
3. Aix the Market Town
One of the best things about Aix en Provence is that there is a market every day of the week! The markets take place in either Place Richelme or Place des Prêcheurs. In addition, there is a flower market in the plaza by the Hôtel de Ville.
Located close to the Hôtel de Ville, Place Richelme is at the heart of Aix’s old town. Seven days a week, market vendors arrive early to set up their stalls and clear out by 13h (1 pm), allowing the restaurant owners to set up their tables. Visit this market for fresh, seasonal produce from nearby Aix. This market’s vendors are mostly Provence’s farmers, fishmongers, beekeepers, and cheese makers. Local chefs often frequent the Place Richelme market, selecting ingredients for their daily menus.
On Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday mornings, the Place des Prêcheurs market is bustling. Here, you can find a mix of fresh produce, prepared food, spices, linens, earthenware, and Provencal crafts.
If fresh produce is not enough temptation, discover the daily flower market in front of the Hôtel de Ville (City Hall). Select from local flowers, potted plants, and imported blossoms. Note: The market is not open on the first Sunday of the month.
4. Hotel de Ville at the Heart
The Hôtel de Ville and the busy square directly in front of the town hall date from 1741, when Aix en Provence was the capital of Provence. The building was constructed for meetings between consuls and the Town Council. Today, it remains the place where most administrative requests are made. All residents of Aix who wish to marry must do so at the Hôtel de Ville, as only civil ceremonies are considered legal in France. Read more here: Hotel de Ville at the Heart of Old and New Aix en Provence.
5. Stroll the Cours Mirabeau
The Cours Mirabeau, Aix-en-Provence’s Champs-Élysées, continues its evolution. It is one of the most popular and lively places in town. The French word cours comes from the Italian “corso,” meaning promenade. In 1651, Archbishop Mazarin, the cardinal’s brother, laid out the famed Cours Mirabeau, which divides the old town into two sections. This central road was lined with a double row of Plane trees (Sycamores), forming a beautiful leafy canopy. Unfortunately, in recent years, the city has removed trees due to disease.
Initially, there were no shops on the street, only the residences of the wealthy. Today, elegant houses, shops, and banks line the Cours Mirabeau. The side of the road that benefits from more extended hours of direct sunshine is where you find the cafés and restaurants.
6. Still Chic After all these Years
Ironically, the Quartier Mazarin was the first planned development in Aix. When the capital of Provence was bursting its seams in the 17th century, the newly appointed Italian-born Archbishop Michel Mazarin was granted permission to develop church land to the south of the existing town outside its crumbling ramparts. Architect Jean Lombard created a grid of perfectly straight streets around the Benedictine convent that later became Émile Zola’s high school, the Lycée Mignet.
The new quartier allowed the aristocracy of Provence to construct mansions in the then-fashionable Italian style, with walled courtyards and formal gardens. Over the next century, elegant hôtels particuliers, designed by the time’s most famous architects, filled the neighbourhood. One of the best examples is the magnificently restored Hôtel de Caumont, which, until recently, housed the town’s music conservatory and has become one of the most beautiful small art centres in Europe.
Unlike the old town, the streets were wide enough for carriages to pass through. Most of the wealthy inhabitants of the quartier also owned country estates. Life was lived behind high walls in town, away from the public eye.
Today, the streets of the Mazarin Quarter remain relatively uncongested. There are boutiques, restaurants with inner courtyards and several beautiful squares with ornate fountains. It is also possible to see some of these once-private homes converted to other uses, such as gallery space.
Take your time wandering through this area, which is similar to Paris’s chic residential Marais district. Stop by the Hôtel de Caumont, Hôtel de Gallifet, the Musée Granet, and the Church of Saint-Jean-de-Malte.
7. Paul Cezanne’s Aix
Paul Cézanne (1839-1906) was born in Aix-en-Provence on Rue de l’Opéra. Provence’s “Painter’s Light” guided his creative path to the threshold of abstraction. The work of Post-Impressionist French painter Paul Cézanne forms the bridge between late 19th-century Impressionism and the early 20th-century’s new line of artistic inquiry, Cubism. The mastery of design, tone, composition, and colour that spans his life’s work is highly characteristic and recognizable worldwide. Cézanne’s work influenced both Henri Matisse and Pablo Picasso. Read more about Cézanne from an artist’s point of view.
The 18th-century country house Jas de Bouffan was the home of the Cezanne family for 40 years. The spacious grounds include a garden with ponds, fountains, and sculptures. Unfortunately, the Jas de Bouffan buildings and grounds are closed due to an extensive restoration project. However, here is a short video of the grounds and the mansion.
“In The Steps of Cézanne” is a self-guided walking tour for smartphones developed by the Office of Tourism. Follow the bronze “C” plaques implanted into the sidewalks. They mark many places he lived, went to school, visited family, or met with his contemporaries.
When his mother died in 1897, Cézanne sold the Bastide de Jas de Bouffan and built his workshop north of Aix-en-Provence. Many artists and art lovers tour Cezanne’s private studio on Lauves Hill, above the city. During the last two years of his life, Cézanne worked every morning in this peaceful atelier (workshop). Many of his paintings are now in galleries and museums worldwide. Read more about the famous artist and visit Cézanne’s atelier.
Travel tip: Watch the film on Paul Cézanne at Hotel de Caumont.
8. Stop at the Cathedral
When you look at the facade of the Aix-en-Provence Cathédrale Saint Sauveur, note the different styles of architecture between the 5th and 18th centuries. The Medieval wall of the Cathedral includes stones from what was once the Roman Forum.
The main entrance is Romanesque. On the right is the section known as St. Michel, with a magnificent 16th-century Gothic doorway and walnut doors carved by Jean Guiramand. Protective metal doors cover these doors most of the time to safeguard them from vandalism.
Inside the Cathedral, look at the 5th-century baptism, when the ancient sacrament of baptism required complete immersion. The elegant and serene Cloisters, built in the 12th century, contain intricately decorated Corinthian pillars and a statue of Saint Peter. The Cloisters are partially visible. However, you can only access the space via a free 30-minute guided tour (in French).
9. Squares and Plazas
Throughout history, citizens have gathered in town squares for festivals, markets, or meetings with family and friends. Aix-en-Provence has several historical squares that remain popular meeting places.
Discover Aix’s Squares and Plazas
At the Place des Martyrs de la Résistance, you will find L’Archevêché, the former residence of the archbishops of Aix. It is home to the Tapestry Museum (La Musée des Tapisseries), a collection of tapestries from the 1600s and 1700s.
Place Hôtel de Ville has an interesting clock tower, built in 1510 on Roman foundations when clocks were rare. At construction time, a public clock highlighted the city’s importance in the region.
Take a break at Place des Trois Ormeaux. The trees provide plenty of shade, and the fountain’s sound has a rejuvenated effect.
The current Place des Cardeurs opened in 1963 after demolishing several offensive and unsanitary buildings. Today, beautifully restored homes and buildings surround the square. This plaza has an Italian feel, and on a sunny day, it is bustling as the restaurant terraces fill with customers.
10. Museums and Art Centres
Interestingly, not everyone appreciated Cezanne’s work at the time. The curator of the Granet Museum at the time and fellow artist Henri Pointier refused to exhibit any of Cezanne’s paintings even though Cezanne offered to donate them. However, after the death of Pointer, the museum (renamed Musée Granet) worked to correct Pointer’s short-sightedness and bring Cezanne’s work back to his hometown. This museum has a vast collection of compelling temporary exhibits.
Hôtel de Caumont is in the heart of the Mazarin district. It was one of the rare urban residences in Aix, with a courtyard and a garden. Built in the 1700s, Hôtel de Caumont highlighted the aristocratic status of François Rolland de Réauville, the Marquis de Cabannes. In 2015, the Hôtel de Caumont opened as an art centre to the public. Walk through the doors, and you’ll feel like you’ve travelled back almost 300 years into the past!
After a restoration project, Hôtel de Gallifet opened in July 2010. This art centre in the Mazarin district features contemporary art exhibitions. In the summer months (June to September), try the bistro menu at lunch or stop for a drink.
Fondation Vasarely, with its modern architecture and art collection, is on Aix’s outskirts and contrasts the city’s Gallo-Roman and Gothic-style buildings. The museum is home to the works of contemporary artist Victor Vasarely. He designed the building, too. Even if you have never heard Victor Vasarely’s name, you are probably already familiar with his work. Artists often refer to him as the “grandfather of Op Art,” a style of art that uses optical illusions. In Op Art, flat paintings appear three-dimensional or move as the viewer looks at them from various directions. If contemporary art is your thing, spend part of your day in Aix-en-Provence at the museum Fondation Vasarely.
Key Addresses for Your Visit to Aix
Tourism Office (website)
300, avenue Giuseppe Verdi
13605 Aix-en-Provence
Tel: + 33 (0)4 42 16 11 61
Fondation Vasarely (website)
1 Avenue Marcel Pagnol
13090 Aix-en-Provence
Hotel de Caumont (website)
3, rue Joseph Cabassol
13100 Aix-en-Provence
Tel: +33 (0)4 42 20 70 01
Open daily – hours change seasonally
Café Caumont is open daily from 11:30 am (they do not take reservations)
Lounge Bar Caumont for light bites and drinks is open until 23h
Hôtel de Gallifet (website)
52 Rue Cardinale
Aix-en-Provence
Musée Granet (website)
Place Saint-Jean de Malte,
13100 Aix-en-Provence
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