Liz LordRestaurant Recommendations in ProvenceTaste: Food & Drink

Options for Vegetarian and Vegan Dining on the French Riviera

Where are the vegetables?

Do you find yourself grappling with the “myth” of French gastronomy?

Vegetarian French Riviera

French Riviera Green Cuisine

Expecting to eat mightily well in France, I think the most commonly penned critique among omnivores, is the lack of vegetables. Frustrating of course, and even more so for visitors who are vegetarian, vegan, gluten-free or have other dietary restrictions.

It should be said at the outset that, even today, among French people of all ages, the concept of meat – is a slab – or other – of beef. Other flesh – be that lamb, pork, chicken and fish, may well slip onto your plate in a restaurant unless one is very clear when ordering!

Nice Liberation Market artichokes

However, there is some good news for “Happy Herbivores” in the Hexagone. As a 40-year vegetarian and long-term resident in France, I have adapted to the local cuisine and discovered ways to satisfy my need for vegetables, protein and carbohydrates.

Discover why six-sided France is nicknamed l’Hexagone.

Adapting Local Food

There is salvation however with good old “socca” (called farinata just over the border in Italy). Socca is a Nicoise speciality a pancake concoction of chickpea flour, olive oil and water, which goes down perfectly with a chilled glass of local pink wine! The good news is socca is suitable for vegan and gluten-free diets.

Click here for a socca recipe.

Nice Socca Local Cuisine

Vegetarian French Riviera Nice Socca Recipe

Let us not forget – polenta – too often served as a cornmeal sludge, under a beef Daube (local stew). A typical polenta is boiled, made like porridge with cornmeal and water. The mixture when cooked long enough to remove most of the liquid, then cut and grilled. Polenta is delicious on served with a quality tomato sauce, or with melted blue cheese and walnuts.

For a heftier snack in Nice and along the Côte d’Azur, there is a myriad of juice bars, sandwich shops, delis, and pizza parlours where you can get something more substantial. In these restaurants, you can be confident of what you are getting on your plate.

Insider Tips from a Local Vegetarian

Végétarien = vegetarian
Végétalien = vegan – although, the term vegan is becoming more common in France
Sans gluten = gluten-free
Sans lactose = lactose-free
Bio = organic
Menu non-stop = means that they serve all day long
Cru = raw

Telephone the restaurant in advance, if you can, to check that you can get something to eat to suit your diet.

Nice Liberation Market Fresh Tomatoes

Beware, it might look promising, but there is minced meat in classic Nicoise dishes such as petits farcis (stuffed veggies) and often in spinach/ricotta ravioli.

Check out recent openings as restaurant turnovers are fast moving on the Côte d’Azur.

Vegetarian French Riviera Nice Market Zucchini flowers

If the menu options do not work for you, ask for some veggies. An excellent choice is a Provencal ratatouille (tomato, onion, courgette, eggplant), or French beans, to go with a tasty courgette tourte (savoury baked zucchini tart).

Food Wine Provence Sip Taste Share

Click here for a ratatouille recipe.

There are many other speciality restaurants in Nice and along the French Riviera, many of which are listed on the Happy Cow website.

If you wish to go more mainstream, try out Lebanese, Indian and Italian restaurants where there are veggie options.

Nicoise Specialty Tourte aux Blettes

If you are on a budget, look for lunchtime specials.

French organisation for gluten-free diets: Afdiag – Association Française Des Intolérants Au Gluten.

Côte d’Azur Dining Vegetarian and Vegan

Nice Restaurants:

Caju 
A great option for snacking
Vegan raw food, plant burgers, some gluten-free options
2 Rue Sainte-Claire, 06300 Nice
Tel: +33 (0)4 22 16 28 58
Wednesday to Sunday 11.00–17.00
Website

Daki-Daia
Fusion Greek/Mediterranean, veggie friendly
26 Quai Lunel, 06300 Nice
Tel: +33 (0)9 82 41 18 68
Summer hours: Tuesday to Saturday from 19.00
Website

Le Socrate
Lebanese cuisine, great value platters, veggie friendly
2 Rue de Suisse, 06000 Nice
Tel: +33 (0)4 93 82 24 72
Open every day 12.00–23.00
Website

Boros
Lebanese and Armenian cuisine, veggie friendly
Cosmopolitan grocery next door
4 Rue Dalpozzo, 06000 Nice
Tel: +33 (0)4 93 88 90 75
Monday to Saturday 09.00–20.00
No website

Vegan Gorilla
Vegan and gluten-free
7 Rue du Lycée, 06000 Nice
Tel: +33 (0)4 93 81 32 98
Tuesday to Saturday 12.00–14.00 and 19.30-22.00
Website

 

Vegan Gorilla Restaurant Nice

In my opinion, among the best-rated eateries in Nice is the Vegan Gorilla. The owners Willy and Camille serve home-cooked vegan food in an atmosphere which encourages human interaction at the table. This delightful spot is the first vegan restaurant in France to be awarded the Maitres Restaurateurs accolade – essentially great locally sourced food cooked from scratch – well done by them.

Gigi Tavola
Recently, recommended to me their menu is veggie and gluten-free friendly (including pizza). The first restaurant in Nice (Côte d’Azur) to be labelled by the French gluten-free association AFDIAG
5 Quai des Deux Emmanuels, 06300 Nice
Tel: +33 (0)4 93 31 72 65
Every day 11.00–15.00 and 18.00-00.30
Website

Villefranche-sur-Mer Restaurants:

Brasserie du Col
Veggie friendly brasserie – open all hours!
90 Corniche André de Joly
Tel: +33 (0)4 93 01 18 63
Every day 07.00–23.00
Facebook Page

Vegetarian French Riviera Villefranche sur Mer

You can see from this menu board from the Brasserie du Col in Villefranche – that there are plenty of options, as long as you specify what you can eat.

Vegetarian French Riviera Menu

Menton Restaurants:

Loving Hut
For many years, the Loving Hut in Menton was the tasty vegan destination restaurant on the coast and there were few other choices on the French Riviera.
Vegan with Asian leaning menu
649 Promenade du Soleil, 06500 Menton
Tel: +33 (0)4 92 07 32 57
Tuesday to Sunday 12.00-14.30 and 19.00-21.30
Website

Mirazur
Michelin quality food. If you wish to go high end, we are honoured to have the third best restaurant in the world, in Menton – the Mirazur – its gorgeous and priced as you would expect.
30 Avenue Aristide Briand, 06500 Menton
Tel: +33 (0)4 92 41 86 86
Wednesday to Sunday 12.15-14.00 and 19.15–22.00
Website

If you are looking for a walking holiday in the Alpes-Maritimes with good vegetarian food – contact Spacebetween Holidays in France.


Image credits:

Thanks to Vegan Gorilla (photo of restaurant facade)

Thanks to Lindsey Sinclair-Noble, and Spacebetween (photos of Brasserie du Col and menu board).

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Liz Lord

Liz Lord

Liz Lord and her husband Mel Jones have been living in the Mercantour National Park for the past 12 years.

Most people would already be saying “where?”, but in fact the Mercantour remains a delightfully unknown area straddling the Franco-Italian border, in the Alpes-Maritimes. Liz and Mel live just an hour North of Nice – so can enjoy the best of best worlds, their life concentrated in their home in Berthemont les Bains, yet being able to enjoy the hubbub on the coast when the need for culture arises.

Choosing to decamp from the UK (and their “normal” corporate lives!) after a chance encounter with their current home in 2001, they now earn their living by renting out their two gites, and offering walking and adventure holidays at Space Between.

With experience of an ex-pat life, setting up a small business in France, house renovation, and land and horse management!, with a keen interest in food and wine and travel, Liz has much to contribute for those interested in a new life in France or with a zest to dip their toe in the water on holiday.

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