UNESCO Royal Fortresses of Languedoc: Cathars and Castles of Southern France

Who were the Cathars of Southern France? Did they build castle-fortresses in Languedoc? Let’s find out.

In the 13th century, the Pope joined with the King of France to launch a crusade against the Cathars, a heretical sect that thrived in the Languedoc region of France. It was a campaign of great cruelty that led to the death of thousands and the complete destruction of the sect. In the wake of the violence, the historical region of Languedoc was left with several fortresses.

Present-day the Occitanie administrative region stretches from the Mediterranean to the Atlantic coast. The historical region of Languedoc encompasses several departments, including Aude, where the Cathars lived.

Carcassonne – Photo credit: ©Perfectly Provence

Today we don’t know a lot about the Cathars, which has sometimes fed feverish speculation by the likes of author Dan Brown (The Da Vinci Code). What were their beliefs? Did they possess the Holy Grail? Are they still among us, but hidden?

UNESCO Cathar Castles…or Not

Today, Languedoc tourism leans heavily on its history as “Cathar Country.” Visits to Cathar fortresses, like Montségur and Quéribus, are heavily promoted. Except oops, the fortresses aren’t Cathar.

Quéribus – Photo credit: ©BlueBreezeWiki

No, it seems that after victory in the crusade, King Louis IX of France ordered a series of new castles built in the area, to protect France’s border with the Kingdom of Aragon. Today, nobody would much care about this pesky detail, but soon UNESCO will decide on whether to grant the castles their coveted World Heritage designation.

Picky, Picky

The folks at UNESCO are, it seems, sticklers for detail. So Cathar Castles is out, and Royal Fortresses of Languedoc is in. This has the locals up in arms, with a petition making the rounds, but is unlikely to change anything. A few Cathars may even be prompted to come out of hiding; who knows.

In the meantime, if you’d like to learn more about these châteaux, a good place to start is with The Five Sons of Carcassonne. These fortresses once loomed over France’s southern flank, facing Aragon, and visiting them can be like stepping back in time.

A Provençal Contrast

The châteaux of the Alpilles mountain range provide an interesting contrast. Unlike their Languedoc cousins, there is no mystical story behind them, no Holy Grail. Instead, they were mostly about cold, hard cash.

Château Saint-Gabriel – Photo credit: ©Keith Van Sickle

You see, the Alpilles lie at the center of multiple ancient trading routes. To the west is the Rhône River and to the east is the Durance River, and three different Roman roads went right by—the Via Domitia, the Via Aurelia, and the Via Agrippa. With all that cargo passing by daily, a number of châteaux were built that were essentially toll booths.

These châteaux generated great wealth for their owners, who built even more châteaux, heavily fortified and quite sumptuous. Many were built at the same time that the King of France was building the so-called Cathar castles. But they were not to last.

Troublemakers

Provence became part of the Kingdom of France in the 15th century, but not everyone welcomed the news. The Alpilles châteaux became centers of rebellion, so the king did what any good monarch would do, and had them torn down.

Château de Tarascon: Photo credit: ©PerfectlyProvenec

One that remains is the Château of Tarascon. First constructed to control the Rhône River, it has been built, destroyed, and rebuilt several times, most recently in the 15th century. Today it is a museum and cultural center, and a top sight for visitors to the area.

Châteauneuf-du-Pape Full day Wine Tour with the sommelier-guide and 3 winery visits

Discover one of the most famous red wine-producing areas of France, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, with this wine tour! You will start the day with the discovery of Châteauneuf-du-Pape and its history.

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Keith Van Sickle

Keith and Val Van Sickle made their first trip to Provence decades ago, and it was love at first sight. After that, they came back every year until 2008, when they began a part-time life there, splitting their time between Provence and California.

Over the years, they’ve travelled all over Provence, seeing sights both well-known and obscure. Their French friends have introduced them to favourite restaurants and wineries and picnic spots and taught them funny local expressions (not all for polite company).

Keith now shares this local knowledge in his new book, An Insider’s Guide to Provence. Packed with the Van Sickles’ favourite things to see and do, it’s a must-have for anyone travelling to this glorious corner of France.

Keith previously published two books about the couple's experiences in Provence. One Sip at a Time: Learning to Live in Provence, and Are We French Yet?, both are available from Amazon.

You can see all of Keith’s blog posts at Life in Provence.