I first discovered Quince paste (pâte de fruit) on a charcuterie and cheese board while living in Aix-en-Provence. Since then, I have learned to make my own, to the delight of my dinner guests. To serve the pâte, cut into squares or wedges and present with Comté, Pecorino Romano, Asiago …

This quince almond tarte tatin (tatin aux coings et aux amandes) is a fall dessert that celebrates the slow-ripening fruit. It’s a bit of work to peel quince, but you will be pleased with the sweet end result.

Quince are not a pretty fruit. Far from perfectly shaped they resemble an oversized, rock-hard pear. However, once peeled and stewed with sugar, like apples for a compote, quince are versatile. You can make a quince paste, which is delicious with cheese or follow this recipe for Quince Puff Pastry Tarts …

On one of our many walking routes, there are several rows of quince trees (coing in French) which we saw planted just a few years ago. They have a lovely blossom in spring and produce large fruit, but what is interesting is their love of wet clay soil. We took …