Olives in Provence and More Fall Treasures To Discover in a Weekend

“Autumn is a second spring when every leaf is a flower.” ― Albert Camus

Fall Weekend in Provence

Late fall lacks the relaxed feel of those long mid-July days, the stress of back-to-school (la rentrée) in September, and the anticipation of the December holidays. However, it’s a great time to gather some friends together for a gourmet getaway in Provence. Here is a short itinerary for a weekend in Provence exploring the olive groves and gastronomy.

There is hearty gourmet food. As temperatures drop in Provence during autumn, restaurant menus shift towards heartier dishes. Enjoy slow-roasted meat (lamb, wild boar, bull (taureaux), rabbit, fowl) with herbes de Provence and seasonal root vegetables.

Photo: ©PerfectlyProvence

At this time of year, hiking is fabulous, biking is possible, and golfers often get an extended season. Best of all, the autumn months move at a slightly more relaxed pace for many people living in or visiting Provence. The summer crowds have departed, replaced by smaller groups of visitors and bike tours. In the fall, no guilt is involved in lighting a fire, curling up with a book, or perhaps taking a siesta.

Car Rally Idea

Friday Night in Provence

Your weekend entre amis (with friends) starts when you arrive at the Avignon TGV station; it’s a quick transfer to a rental or hotel in the Alpilles or Luberon. Settle in and enjoy a cocktail hour and then a delicious meal prepared with local ingredients.

Fall Dinner Party Idea

Photo: ©PerfectlyProvence

Provence’s Olive History

Do you like olives? Do you want to find out more about Provencal olives and how olive oil is made? Let’s find out more.

Olives grow throughout the Mediterranean basin, where the climate is suitable. The olive tree is fairly drought-resistant; many live for centuries, but productivity diminishes as the tree ages. Olea europaea and the grapevine were planted here by the Phocæans about 2,600 years ago when they founded Marseille. There are olive groves throughout Provence, as the olive tree has been a part of the landscape in the South of France for at least two millennia.

Today, olive plantations exist throughout the South of France. Since 1997, the Alpilles have been an Appellation d’origine protégée (AOP) and Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) for olive production in the Vallée des Baux. The AOP covers all the villages in the Alpilles and the olive oil production from an estimated 580,000 trees. So, if you see an AOP label on a bottle, you know that the oil contains only olives from the region. There are several olive mills in the Alpilles, accounting for 15% of the national total.

Photo: ©Perfectly Provence

Take a walk through the olive groves and visit the boutique at the Moulin de Castelas in Les Baux-de-Provence. If you’d like to taste some of the best olive oil in Provence, look no further than the Moulin Castelas, situated just below the famous fortress of Les Baux-de-Provence. Moulin Castelas is owned by Catherine and Jean-Benoît Hugues, a French couple who lived in Arizona before returning to their native country when they “fell in love with some old olive trees.” They bought the estate in 1997 and built a new olive mill in 2002 to produce the best olive oil possible.

Photo: ©Perfectly Provence

Saturday: Discover the Alpilles Olives

Our guide is designed as a driving tour to the villages of the Alpilles and the Vallée des Baux, which is renowned for the quality of the olives grown and olive oil produced. If you like olives, wine, and beautiful vistas, a driving, cycling, or walking tour around the Alpilles villages is a “must-do” while in Provence. We begin this olive-focused driving tour of the Alpilles in Eyguières on the far eastern side of the range. Follow this driving tour clockwise to Aureille, Mouriès, Maussane, and the entire Alpilles massif, ending in the village of Orgon.

Guide: Olive Producers of the Alpilles

Photo: ©Perfectly Provence

Saturday Lunch in the Alpilles:

Maussane has a big central square, Place Joseph Laugier, right next to the church. It’s filled with tables from the surrounding cafés and restaurants, set around the central fountain. The square is the perfect place for a relaxing meal or a drink, and you’ll see people enjoying it at just about any hour of the day. While there are several restaurants, L’Oustaloun is one of our favourites, and has long been an institution in Maussane. It began as an abbey in the 16th century, later became the mayor’s office, and eventually evolved into the town’s first hotel-restaurant. Marielle and Thierry purchased L’Oustaloun in 1990 and began a program of steady upgrades. Under their management, L’Oustaloun has received the French government’s Certificate of Quality Tourism, and its official hotel rating has risen from 2 to 3 stars.

Photo: ©Perfectly Provence

Dinner Plans in Provence:

If you are planning to cook that evening, stop by Jean Martin in Maussane for some of their top-quality products. Olives are at the core of the company’s history and remain a significant part of their product line. However, they offer a range of delicious prepared sauces and combinations made with locally sourced ingredients such as tomatoes, zucchini, and eggplant. There is a stringent process to become a Jean Martin supplier. The internal quality control team evaluates a vegetable grower’s methodology and growing practices, including a detailed site inspection. The vegetables in question must meet exacting criteria, and the producer must be able to provide traceability documentation. These standards also apply to suppliers of jars and packaging.

Jean Martin
9 rue Charloun Rieu
13520 Maussane-les-Alpilles, France

Sunday Drive in the Luberon

If you love picturesque villages, stunning scenery, and authentic French charm, visiting the Luberon Valley should be at the top of your travel list. This region of Provence is famous for its hilltop towns, which were initially built for defence but are now perfect for exploring and taking postcard-worthy photos. Each village is unique. From panoramic vistas and medieval castles to galleries and restaurants, here is our list of 10 must-see villages in the Luberon Valley.

The Luberon in the Vaucluse boasts many charming villages, four of which are classified as Plus Beaux Villages. Moreover, there are wooded hills with plenty of good walking, great markets, excellent restaurants and a producer of quality wines—all in this relatively unspoiled corner of Provence.

Photo: ©Perfectly Provence

If you stay nearby, do this itinerary in a day. However, if time permits, we would advise spending more time in this beautiful region. If you plan to stay overnight, you will find plenty of reasonably priced accommodation in Apt-en-Provence, Bonnieux or Gordes – in the season; it is advisable to book ahead!

Photo: ©Perfectly Provence

We invited some friends to visit us in Provence in the fall. When they agreed, we jumped into planning mode and created an itinerary that would appeal to first-timers and those who had visited before. It’s challenging to plan a holiday agenda that balances the needs of an active group who want to see the region without feeling exhausted. One of the highlights of their trip was a car rally through the Alpilles. Near the end of the week, one of the couples had a day to explore independently, and we suggested this quick driving tour of the Luberon Villages.

Coteaux d’Aix-en-Provence – Montagne St. Victoire: Full-day Wine tour from Marseille

Embark on a full-day wine tour from Marseille or its surrounding cities to the captivating Coteaux d'Aix-en-Provence, the westernmost vineyards of Provence.

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Carolyne Kauser-Abbott

With her camera and laptop close at hand, Carolyne has traded in her business suits for the world of freelance writing and blogging. Her first airplane ride at six months of age was her introduction to the exciting world of travel.

While in Provence, Carolyne can be found hiking with friends, riding the hills around the Alpilles or tackling Mont Ventoux. Her attachment to the region resonates in Perfectly Provence this digital magazine that she launched in 2014. This website is an opportunity to explore the best of the Mediterranean lifestyle (food & wine, places to stay, expat stories, books on the region, travel tips, real estate tips and more), through our contributors' articles.

Carolyne writes a food and travel blog Ginger and Nutmeg. Carolyne’s freelance articles can be found in Global Living Magazine, Avenue Magazine and City Palate (Published Travel Articles).