Vincent Van Gogh in St-Rémy-de-Provence
St-Rémy’s most famous former resident is undoubtedly Vincent van Gogh, who spent a year there as a mental patient after cutting off his ear in Arles. While in St-Rémy, he painted several masterpieces, including Irises and The Starry Night.
The place where Van Gogh was interned, Saint-Paul de Mausole, has recently been refurbished. So, you can now see it much as it was during Van Gogh’s time. It’s a must-see for visitors to the area, especially those interested in the great artist’s life.
The History of Saint-Paul de Mausole
Saint-Paul de Mausole dates back to the 11th century and was, for much of that time, a monastery for Franciscan monks. It welcomed the destitute and those suffering from mental disorders and, in 1855, received official recognition as an “asylum for the insane.”
St Paul de Mausole archives. Photo ©Keith Van Sickle
Beginning in 1866, the Sisters of Saint Joseph, accompanied by doctors and lay staff, took care of the patients and managed the establishment. They developed it into a center of expertise in mental health, including a psychiatric clinic, a medico-social organization supporting those with mental disabilities, and the Vincent van Gogh Cultural and Tourist Center.
The last of these dedicated nuns retired in 2014, and today patient care is provided by the Association Vivre et Devenir (To Live and To Become), which also manages the site.
Touring Saint-Paul de Mausole
The self-guided tour begins near the front gate. You walk down a lovely tree-lined avenue with over a dozen full-sized reproductions of Van Gogh’s paintings, and a bronze sculpture of Van Gogh carrying sunflowers. Past the sculpture is the romanesque-style Saint-Paul chapel, which has hosted religious services for a thousand years.
Gabriël Sterk Van Gogh Statue St Rémy – photo ©PerfectlyProvence
Following the “visitor route,” you come to the Sisters of Saint Joseph dining room, surrounded by portraits of them. Next is the kitchen, which was used as a set for the film “Camille Claudel 1915” with Juliette Binoche.
©Keith Van Sickle
After passing through the General Reception Hall and mounting the stairs, you will see the visitors’ lounge and dormitories on your right. These were where the destitute patients lived, with many bunk beds in each room. Those with more means, like Van Gogh, thanks to his brother Theo, enjoyed private rooms.
©Keith Van Sickle
Next is the Directorate Corridor, with the Empire-style office of Dr. Peyron, the psychiatrist who treated Van Gogh. There is also a pharmacy, the office of the Mother Superior Sister Epiphane, and the Mother Superior’s bedroom. All are decorated with furnishings and objects of Van Gogh’s time.
©Keith Van Sickle
The next room, #49, was that of Dr. Albert Schweitzer, who received the Nobel Peace Prize. After working in Gabon, he was repatriated to France during World War I and treated as a prisoner of war because of his Alsatian origins (Alsace was then part of Germany). In 1918, he was held at Saint-Paul de Mausole, part of which was repurposed as a prisoner of war camp. His former room now serves as an homage to Dr. Schweitzer.
©Keith Van Sickle
After the Directorate Corridor is the linen hallway, with lockers holding linens and the patients’ personal effects. As you walk down the hall, you can peek into one room where patients were restrained in straitjackets (as Van Gogh was once) and another room where patients received cold water shock therapy.
©Keith Van Sickle
Now we come to Van Gogh’s room, kept much as it was when he lived there. It is spare but clean, and thanks to Dr. Peyron (and Theo’s money), Van Gogh could also use two other rooms, one for painting and one for storing his paintings and supplies.
©Keith Van Sickle
Downstairs is a gallery/gift store, which includes paintings by current and former patients. Outside is an enclosed field, often with flowers in bloom, that Van Gogh could see from his window, and painted many times.
The final sight on the way out is the 12th-century cloisters, a place of peace and beauty for nearly a millennium.
Practical Information
Saint-Paul de Mausole
Chemin Saint-Paul
13210 Saint-Rémy de Provence
Tel: +33 (0)4 90 92 77 00
Open daily from 9:30 am to 7 pm (shorter hours before April and after September)
9-euro entry fee
Website (in French)
Image Credits: as noted in the photo captions.
More to Do and See in St Rémy
St Rémy de Provence is one of the most charming towns in Provence. Nestled at the foot of the Alpilles Mountains and surrounded by vineyards and olive groves, it’s a great place to spend a few days. Here are some fun things you can do while you’re there.
More Things to Do in St Rémy de Provence
©PerfectlyProvence
Walk in the Footsteps of Van Gogh
Vincent Van Gogh spent a year in St-Rémy, receiving care at Saint-Paul de Mausole and painting masterpieces like Starry Night. Visit his old room, which is kept just as it was when he stayed there. Be sure to ask the Tourist Office for information on walks around St-Rémy that show you places Van Gogh painted.
Have Your Mind Blown
Outside St-Rémy is the Carrières des Lumières, an indoor quarry turned into the world’s best sound and light show. The Carrières is described as “an immersive art experience.” During the program, hundreds of images of great artists’ works are projected onto the walls and floors of several gigantic rooms. The show is always coordinated with beautiful music. It’s one of the most popular attractions in Provence, and you have to see it to believe it.
Shop Till You Drop
Provence is famous for its outdoor markets, and the very best one may be in St-Rémy. Held every Wednesday morning, it fills the old town center, some side streets, and the ring road. It’s a great place to browse, sniff, taste, and buy souvenirs full of delicious foods, lavender, colourful fabrics and more. And there’s no better place to stock up for a picnic.
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