Sanary-sur-Mer, A Gem on France’s Mediterranean Coast

It’s one of the prettiest towns on France’s Mediterranean coast and one of the country’s sunniest. But while international tourists flock to places like Nice, Antibes, and St-Tropez, lovely little Sanary-sur-Mer remains relatively undiscovered.

Sanary, as the locals call it, was founded as a fishing village in the 16th century. Fishermen still ply their trade there, and today, the town is a popular retirement destination for the French, with its bustling shops and cafés and one of the best weekly markets in France.

Sanary has a surprisingly rich literary tradition. Aldous Huxley wrote Brave New World there, and during the 1930s, several German authors and intellectuals settled in Sanary to escape the Nazi regime. Luminaries included Thomas Mann, Bertolt Brecht, Stefan Zweig and other giants of 20th-century literature.

Markets, Markets, Markets

When people think of Sanary, they usually think of its markets, especially the one held every Wednesday morning. In 2018, the French voted Sanary the country’s most beautiful, and it’s not hard to see why. With over 300 vendors strung along the port and the sparkling blue waters of the Med behind them, it is a sight to behold.

© Sanary Tourist Office

Here, you’ll find everything you want in a French market, from luscious fruits and vegetables to fresh fish and seafood to crafts and clothing. Be sure to try some hot-from-the-oven cade, a local specialty made from chickpea flour. Cade is similar to Nice’s famous socca but thicker and more savoury.

© Sanary Tourist Office

Sanary also has a smaller daily market, focused on fruits and vegetables, and a fish and seafood market every day except Sunday and Monday. Fishermen sell their fresh catch themselves in stalls along the port.

© Sanary Tourist Office

To top it off, Sanary has a daily flower market and, during July and August, a nightly craft market that runs until midnight.

Visiting Sanary-sur-Mer

Besides its many markets, Sanary is a charming town with narrow streets lined with shops and boutiques. If you’d like marvellous views of the harbour and coastline, stroll along the port and continue west along Chemin de la Colline, passing Chapelle Notre-Dame-de-Pitié. You’ll see plenty of pointus, the traditional wooden fishing boats painted in vivid colours.

© Keith Van Sickle

Saint Nazaire is a 19th-century Gothic Revival church whose patron saint the town is named after. (Saint Nazaire is Sant Nazari in Provençal, which evolved to Sant Nàri and finally to Sanary.) Nearby is the Tower of Sanary, a 70-foot-tall medieval structure that once protected the city and today provides stunning views for those willing to climb to its top.

For sun worshippers, Portissol Beach is the place to go. It is a curved, white sand beach on the west side of town, with a lifeguard station and access for those with reduced mobility.

In the Pink

Like many towns in France, Sanary has festivals throughout the year. The best known is the rosé festival, Just’Rosé, held in early May. Over 70 winemakers come to share their latest cuvées, and the town comes alive as festival goers sample their wares from stands set up along the port and the town’s streets.

Day Trips from Sanary

Sanary is next to the famous wine region of Bandol. Known for its long-lasting reds and intense rosés, Bandol is a place to taste wine or drive through beautiful rolling hills covered with vines. Set among these vineyards is the hilltop village of Le Castellet, one of the Most Beautiful Villages in France and the setting for Marcel Pagnol’s classic film La Femme du Boulanger.

© Val Van Sickle

If you’d like to explore a major maritime city, Toulon sits just east of Sanary. Once an important port for the French navy, Toulon has enjoyed a revival over the past two decades and is now known for its funky shops and city vibe. Its Naval Museum is one of the best in Europe, and the views from Mont-Faron, at a nearly 2,000-foot elevation, are magnificent (consider taking the cable car instead of driving the winding road up.)

Wikipedia, Creative Commons License, ©Florian Pépellin

For island fun, consider a day trip to the islands of Embiez and Bendor, a few miles off the coast. Privately owned by Paul Ricard, the founder of the famous pastis maker, they offer rugged natural beauty and art galleries, boutiques, and restaurants. There are also several hotels for those who wish to stay overnight.

Practical Information

Sanary Tourist Office
1 Quai du Levant
+33 4 94 74 01 04
Website

Keith Van Sickle

Keith and Val Van Sickle made their first trip to Provence decades ago, and it was love at first sight. After that, they came back every year until 2008, when they began a part-time life there, splitting their time between Provence and California.

Over the years, they’ve travelled all over Provence, seeing sights both well-known and obscure. Their French friends have introduced them to favourite restaurants and wineries and picnic spots and taught them funny local expressions (not all for polite company).

Keith now shares this local knowledge in his new book, An Insider’s Guide to Provence. Packed with the Van Sickles’ favourite things to see and do, it’s a must-have for anyone travelling to this glorious corner of France.

Keith previously published two books about the couple's experiences in Provence. One Sip at a Time: Learning to Live in Provence, and Are We French Yet?, both are available from Amazon.

You can see all of Keith’s blog posts at Life in Provence.