Colours and Tastes of Autumn in Provence

In Provence, autumn’s arrival can be subtle. Not long after the grape harvest, the vines start changing colour. Vineyards turn shades of golden-yellow and deep-red signalling that the rootstock is ready for a rest. The Plane trees (Platanes) that provided welcome summer shade drop their large brown leaves in noisy, crunchy piles. Along the roadsides, Pyracantha bushes step forward on the natural stage, showing-off their bright berries in tones of orange, red and yellow.

However, fall can also arrive with a bang. The first sound of a hunter’s shotgun, in mid-September, spirals our dog onto an emotional rollercoaster that ranges from minor trembling to pure terror. The approved hunting days are established for wild boar in each village, typically one weekday and one day on the weekend. However, the days for shooting bird, rabbit and seemingly anything else that moves appears to be dawn and dusk – every day!

Enjoy the weather, but wear bright clothing.

Autumn Dinner Menus

Fall’s arrival signals the shortening of days. The bright lingering summer light becomes more radiant, casting a golden hue across our table. The palate of colours changes at my nearby farmers market. The new seasonal produce brings a chance to explore old favourites and new dishes. Chef François offers two variations on a fall menu.  Celebrate Indian summer with a grilled calamari and radicchio salad, and lavender honey lamb chops and a Moroccan couscous salad. The other menu; a soupe au pistou and daube of pork cheek gently reminds us of the heartier fare that will soon provide comfort during the darker nights.

Fall Happenings in Provence

The cultural events and festivals listed here are annual (or bi-annual) happenings in September, October and November in Provence and on the Côte d’Azur. However, the actual dates for these events will change from year-to-year. The websites are listed below so that you can find out the current details. Please note this is not a comprehensive list of all the current events. For activities near to your location, check local newspapers, flyers at the grocery stores and tourism websites for festivals.