Winter in Provence a Seasonal Menu For Dinner with Good Friends
Winter in Provence unveils a serene, understated beauty. The villages quiet down—tourists have departed, fields lie fallow, and root vegetables are tucked away in cool, shadowy cellars. The land rests after autumn’s final harvest while the frost-kissed garrigue glimmers in the winter light. Tendrils of smoke curl from chimneys as locals transition into the colder season.
Provencal Winter Dinner
Inside, warmth radiates not only from the ancient stone hearths but also from the comforting aroma of cherished winter recipes passed down through generations. Among these, pot-au-feu holds a special place as a beloved symbol of French culinary tradition, simmering its way into the hearts of those gathered around the table.
Pot au feu’s story is a rustic one, born in the countryside where resources were few, and families relied on what they could grow or rear themselves. In arrière-pays, the ingredients varied depending on what was available; pork or salted bacon might replace the beef favoured in towns, while root vegetables such as carrots, parsnips, and turnips were supplemented with cabbage or leeks. Pot-au-feu took on a life of its own in every home, adapting to the rhythms of each family’s pantry and garden, yet it was always simmered in the same way: ingredients placed into a large earthen pot, suspended over a low flame and left to meld for hours.
Winter Menu for Friends
The Main Event
Growing up the beginning of winter was marked by when the first pot au feu appeared on our table. My mother’s version is more traditional and typical of what you would find in most homes. It is made with different cuts of beef that are slowly simmered together. The vegetables are cooked afterward in the resulting broth and then it is served all together on a giant platter at the table with cornichon, horseradish sauce, tomato sauce, and mustard.
©Francois de Melogue
Traditional Pot au Feu from Provence
Equipment
Ingredients
For the Beef and Broth:
- 3 lbs beef short ribs or shanks or oxtails
- 2 lbs beef brisket
- 1 sweet onion cut in half, studded with 6 cloves, then charred under your broiler
- 2 bay leaves
- 1 bunch winter savory
- 1 large sprig fresh thyme
- 1 tbsp herbes de Provence
- 1 tbsp sea salt
- 1 tsp black peppercorns
- 2 star anise
- 1 stick cinnamon
- 1 head garlic
For the Vegetables:
- 4 leeks white and light green parts, cut into 3-inch lengths, halved, and washed well
- 8 thin carrots halved and cut into 3-inch lengths
- 8 small turnips peeled and left whole, or 4 medium turnips, cut in half
For the Pork Broth, Potatoes, and Cabbage:
- 8 cups cold water
- 10 oz salted pork (petit salé) meaty
- 8 small potatoes
- 1/4 head cabbage use green cabbage
For the Horseradish Sauce:
- 1/4 cup breadcrumbs
- 8 marrow bones canoe-cut, or 8 slices of poached bone marrow. See notes.
- fleur de sel
- 1/4 cup fresh parsley
- whole grain mustard
- Dijon mustard
- cornichons (pickles)
- 1 cup tomato sauce Use whatever recipe you have.
Instructions
Prepare the Beef and Beef Broth:
- In a large stockpot or Dutch oven, combine the short ribs and brisket, cover with cold water, and bring to a rapid boil over high heat. With tongs, transfer the meat to a large bowl and discard the water (this is done to create a clear broth). Rinse out the pot, return the meat to the pot, and add the onion, bay leaf, savory, thyme, herbes de Provence, salt, peppercorns, star anise, cinnamon, and garlic. Add cold water to cover everything by 1 inch.
- Bring to a gentle boil over medium-high heat. As soon as it boils, reduce the heat so it barely simmers (see Notes below). Cook until the meat is so tender that a knife passes through it with no resistance, about 3 hours.
- Place a fine mesh strainer over a large bowl and strain the meat, keeping both the liquid and the beef. Discard the vegetables. Transfer the beef to a warm platter.
Prepare the Pork Broth, Potatoes, and Cabbage:
- In a saucepot, combine the water and salt pork and bring to a rapid boil over high heat. Remove any scum that floats to the top, then reduce the heat so it is barely simmering and cook for 1.5 hours. 30 minutes before the beef is done, add the potatoes and cabbage to the pork broth and cook until they are tender, about 15 minutes. Remove and keep them warm.
- Strain the meat and vegetables out, keeping the liquid for another use. Save the salt pork for another dish. Transfer the vegetables to the serving platter.
Prepare the Vegetables:
- About 30 minutes before the beef is done, wrap the leeks in cheesecloth and drop them, along with the carrots and turnips, into the beef broth. Simmer for 30 minutes or until tender. Remove all vegetables and arrange them on the platter.
Prepare the Horseradish Sauce:
- While the beef is simmering, put all the ingredients in the bowl of a food processor fitted with the steel blade and puree for 20 seconds. Taste and adjust the seasonings.
To Serve:
- Elegantly arrange all the vegetables and meat on a serving platter. Traditionally, the broth is served first with marrow toast sprinkled with parsley. Then, the meat and vegetables are passed around for everyone to help themselves. More broth is ladled over, and diners may customize their bowls as they like with horseradish sauce, tomato sauce, mustard, and cornichons.
Notes
A Sweet Finish
Because pot au feu is a hearty meal, I like to serve something small for dessert, like feather-light beignets. These rum and orange-scented beignets most likely got their nickname pets de nonne (literally “nun’s farts”) from a slight bastardization of the earlier term paix-de-nonne (“nun’s peace”). They are delicious dipped in a rich, homemade hot chocolate.
©Francois de Melogue
Nun's Farts, "Pets de nonne" (Rum and Orange-Scented Beignet)
Equipment
- hand mixer or food processor
- Dutch oven (8-quart) or large, heavy saucepan
Ingredients
- 1 cup milk, whole
- 8 tbsp unsalted butter
- 1 pinch sea salt
- 1 tbsp granulated sugar
- 1 cup all-purpose flour
- 4 large eggs
- 1 tbsp dark rum
- 1 orange zested
- 2 quarts vegetable oil
- 1 cup granulated sugar for rolling the cooked beignet in
Instructions
Prepare the Dough:
- In a large stainless-steel saucepan over medium-high heat, combine the milk, butter, salt, and sugar. Bring to a rapid boil, stirring to combine as the butter melts. Reduce the heat to medium and, using a wooden spoon, stir in the flour all at once.
- Cook, stirring constantly, until the dough dries out slightly, about 1 minute. This is important — excess moisture will cause your puffs to collapse. Remove the pan from the heat and let the dough cool for 5 minutes.
- Stir in the eggs, one at a time, until fully incorporated before adding the next. You can mix in the eggs with a mixer, food processor, or a wooden spoon if you need to get a workout in. Stir in the rum and orange zest.
Cook the Beignet:
- It is best if you can let the dough rest overnight, but if you are impatient like I am you can cook immediately. In a large, heavy saucepan, Dutch oven, or deep fryer, heat the oil to 350°F.
- Working in batches, drop tablespoons of dough into the hot oil and cook until golden brown, about 3 - 5 minutes.
- Remove the beignets using a wire skimmer and drain them on paper towels. Roll in granulated sugar and serve still warm.
Homemade Hot Chocolate
Ingredients
- 1 quart whole milk
- 1/2 lb bittersweet chocolate
- 1/4 cup granulated sugar
- 1 cinnamon stick
- 1 star anise
- 1 tsp piment d’Espelette
- big pinch saffron
Instructions
- Combine everything and bring to a boil periodically, stirring well. Strain, then serve in small cups. The hot chocolate will be thicker and richer than store-bought powdered hot chocolate.
Bon appétit!
Explore our Tastes of Provence section for more seasonal recipes, and create your own menu.
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