Nietzsche’s Footpath in Èze – For A Contemplative Walk on the French Riviera

Friedrich Wilhelm Nietzsche’s words offer good advice: “Remain seated as little as possible, put no trust in any thought that is not born in the open, to the accompaniment of free bodily motion.”

Riviera Day Trip

In mid-September 2025, my husband and I took a day trip to the historic village of Èze. It is known as a prominent “eagle’s nest” location, hovering between Nice and Monaco, and offers panoramic views of the French Mediterranean. This was a highlight of our trip to Provence, yet hiking Nietzsche’s Footpath hadn’t risen to the top of the list.

Setting off early, we hoped to avoid the crowds. Public transportation was inexpensive, so we jostled the multitudes on the subway, then a bus ride up the hill from Èze-Sur-Mer. Early morning humidity clung to our bodies and those of fellow travellers, as the bus climbed 427 meters (1,401 feet) up to the hillside village of Èze. We weren’t the only tourists intent on an early landing.

Off the bus, we walked uphill, a short distance past artfully designed, but closed shops and restaurants. The steps required a bit of a traverse with uneven ancient roads. Our pre-travel research on sneakers served us well. The fresh sea air and the enchantment of the visual feasts of the Côte d’Azur spurred us onward.

Visiting Èze

The town was a movie set full of historical gems of medieval architecture, panning to breathtaking views. The classic movie, “To Catch A Thief” (1955) and “The Bucket List” (2007), among others, were filmed in Èze. It continues to attract filmmakers. The Old Village (Vieux Èze) offers visitors a step back in time through winding cobblestone streets. Èze is a splendour at its highest peak, with the lush greenery of the Exotic Botanical Garden (Jardin Exotique), where tourists can view succulents and other cacti varieties to nourish the imagination of gardeners and beauty seekers.

©P_MASSON Eze Tourism

If you are a churchcrawler and seek out church art, architecture, and history, you’ll find Èze home to a French Historic Monument – Basilique Notre-Dame de l’Assomption. Here is an 18th-century neoclassical church built over a 12th-century church. Another place of worship is the Chapelle des Penitents Blancs, dating back to 1306. Inside these century-old churches, I try to imagine the births, weddings, and funerals of people who lived in this mountain town high above the ocean. It humbles me to imagine the past and what kinds of lives the townsfolk led.

@Eze Tourism

If you are a history lover, there is much to read about the Roman and Moorish occupation of Èze. Beyond the historical buildings, it is all about the views. Perched high on the cliffs of the French Riviera is a vista of timeless beauty which all connects to the sea. Who can resist the shimmer of azure waters rippling in the rays of the late summer sun? It’s a sight that’s ever-changing, mesmerizing, and refreshes our spirit.

Nietzsche’s Footpath

And yet, there’s another intoxicating, possibly equally memorable experience: the path that connects Èze Village to Èze-Sur-Mer beach. After walking through the town, we happened upon and might have easily missed a sign for Chemin de Nietzsche, at the start or end (depending on your ascent or descent) of Nietzsche’s footpath. Èze commemorated the trail the philosopher walked during his stay there, from December 1883 to April 1884. It was here that he developed many of his famous revolutionary philosophies on existence, walking, God, and how to live a meaningful life. I have been seeking answers to those questions. That small sign lit a fire in me.

Time for a Walk

Instead of taking the crowded bus down, we decided to walk Nietzsche’s path, reportedly an old mule track. I knew a smattering about Friedrich Nietzsche (1844-1900), an eminent German writer, internationally famous for his influential works. My husband reminded me that Richard Strauss composed a well-known classical piece titled Also Sprach Zarasthrusa. It became a cultural beacon at the end of the movie 2001: A Space Odyssey. My recollection and knowledge of both were scant, but I vowed to learn more.

The clean mountain air energized us. The silence was sacred, visceral, and a bird sang, and our ears tuned to the scrape of our feet in the mountain gravel. The hike on Nietzsche’s trail invites you to discover French terrain and an invitation to a seminal work of fiction, Thus Spoke Zarathustra. Nietzsche’s wisdom resonates today, as we find ourselves spending too much time in front of screens that deliver other people’s thoughts. Nietzsche knew and lived in solitude for eighteen months from the summer of 1881 to the beginning of 1883. Far beyond the physical benefits, walking allows us to separate time and space to dive into deeper conversations with ourselves.

Who was Nietzsche?

Nietzsche lived in Èze from December 1883 to April 1884. Historical evidence notes that his daily walks were “a most onerous ascent,” yet he developed many inspired ideas for the third part of Thus Spoke Zarathustra (A Book for All and None). His quotes reflect a love for walking and nature: “All truly great thoughts are conceived while walking.”

Chemin de Nietzsche – Downhill

Our hike down was quiet, except for occasional hikers heading up – their pleas of how much further to the top – made us realize we’d made the right directional choice. One exasperated woman wearing a long, tight, satin red dress and strappy sandals stumbled. Her hiking partners gave little notice. When we asked if she was okay, she merely nodded. Speaking might have compromised the breath she needed to keep trudging upwards. It was somewhat challenging, this long, rough 5 km path of steep mountain steps in 24 °C/75 °F temperatures. We hadn’t packed enough water or sunhats, so the mid-day heat was a mighty force. The sweat traced our backbones.

That small sign invited us to exert the body, to contemplate, to stimulate the senses, and to sharpen our thinking. We experienced a piece of literary history here. The footpath attracts tourists to the same mountain, the same path, the same environment, where Nietzsche walked. He advocated discovering the best ideas while exerting the body, and I was inspired to dive deeper into his writing and life. A hero’s journey inspires me, and it shows that a hero seldom feels prepared for the challenge ahead, just as we weren’t prepared for this journey.

Life Thoughts by Nietzsche

In the introduction to Thus Spoke Zarathustra, RJ Hollingdale, a Nietzsche specialist, wrote that Nietzsche “resolved a long-sustained intellectual crisis” and he “lived with his intellectual problems as realities.” The concepts of solitude and individuality are at the heart of this work, as are themes of joy and self-sufficiency. He led a challenging life and was influenced by great minds, such as Goethe, Darwin, Buddha, and Tolstoy. This book is evidence of a contemplative man’s life searching for truth and knowledge.

I’m intrigued by the layers of thought and discovery Nietzsche wrote into his main character, the ancient Persian prophet Zarasthrustra, who lived on a mountain for a decade of solitude, much like Nietzsche. Through the prophet, we navigate the stages of life, the dichotomy of good & evil, and the existence of God. There is a discovered reverence for the earth, life, and its eternal recurrence.

John Kaag, in his book Hiking with Nietzsche, offers us that physical hiking can be a metaphor for growth, “finding lessons in moments of struggle or ‘slipping.” At times, the gravel ground did slip out from under us. The shrubs lining the path were our guardrails, as the heat of the noonday sun wove its way through the canopy of trees. The air was thick with moisture, rolling down our bodies. My eyes tracked the bloom across the back of my husband’s t-shirt as I followed his footsteps. We hadn’t intended this hike, so we weren’t as prepared as we might have been. Dehydration is real. We learned an important lesson that day.

Nietzsche recognized life as a constant struggle and that we have to surmount difficult goals to grow. Few attribute these famous words to him: “That which does not kill us makes us stronger. “Nietzsche lived this and was reported to have had numerous health ailments, primarily splitting migraines. He eventually suffered a mental collapse (1889) and was admitted to a psychiatric clinic. But he created a masterpiece that lives on in literary circles and philosophy circles today.

Back on the French Riviera

At the bottom of the trail, you can relax on a pebbled beach, swim, and then indulge at a local bistro in fresh seafood. The history, the landscape, and the journey are part of the reward and will remain with you long after you leave. You have the highest recommendation from Nietzsche himself, who reported that Èze gave him mental and physical relief. “I slept well, I laughed a lot, and I found a marvellous vigour and patience.”

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Kathryn MacDonell

Kathryn writes creative non-fiction to give shape to the emotions of our evolving experiences. A traveller to 30 countries, she now embraces her French roots and inner French girl. She loves the ocean, museums, words, and travel adventures with her husband.