Le Préau Chef Antonin Wishart’s Restaurant in Rognes is a Culinary Treat
Restaurant Worth the Detour
Le Préau Restaurant is a hidden gem in the village of Rognes, just 19 km north of Aix-en-Provence. The restaurant is known for its inspired Mediterranean cuisine, which was influenced by the travels of chef/owner Antonin Wishart. I am fascinated by this restaurant because Chef Wishart creates a new menu for lunch and dinner every day.
His restaurant location was selected because he grew up near the village of Rognes, on the border of Lambesc. He also lived and trained in Avignon, Australia, Cambodia, England, the Caribbean, and Southeast Asia and has worked on private boats and yachts. His mother is French, and his father is English.
Chef’s Culinary CV
Antonin completed his chef training (CFA) in Marseille at AM par Alexandre Mazzia and under Chef David Mijoba at Restaurant Le Péron, a refined Mediterranean seafood venue perched on a cliff along the Corniche Kennedy.
Chef Wishart’s top three culinary experiences to date are:
AM par Alexandre Mazzia – Marseille, 3-starred restaurant
Restaurant L’Oustau de Baumanière, Les Baux de Provence, 3-starred restaurant
Tagine cooked over a fire by a Berber Family in the Atlas Mountains outside of Marrakech, Morocco
His cooking has been influenced by Alain Passard of Arpège in Paris.
Selecting Ingredients
The Chef selects the wine purveyors for Le Préau by attending local wine tastings. He sources fish locally, mostly from Marseille. The beef comes mainly from the Galicia region of Spain. Lastly, his produce comes exclusively from the family farm from July to September. From October through June, he also works with local produce suppliers.
Antonin’s favourite ingredient is the courgette (zucchini) flower – for its versatility and all you can do with it and octopus. Octopus carpaccio is the Chef’s signature dish. It is served with a sauce made with Greek yogurt, lime juice, fresh herbes, supreme of lime and lemon, coriander, parsley and dill. When travelling, Chef Wishart cannot live without two ingredients: fresh ginger and fleur de sel (salt).
Gastronmic Inspiration
The Chef’s inspiration for new menu ideas comes from quality seasonal ingredients with sweet, bitter, salty, umami and sour flavours. His plating ideas come naturally with consideration to colour and texture (creamy, crunchy, crispy, smooth). Chef Wishart is a natural food stylist, delicately presenting each plate.
The most fascinating part of my interview with the Chef was participating in his menu conception meeting, which happened casually at one of his outdoor tables with his Second Cuisine, Alix. Based on the ingredients, he had just purchased scallops, Meagre (fish), tuna, squid, and other items in stock, such as pears, ice cream, cheeses, ginger, and salmon roe. There was one semi-urgent call to Emily to pick up beef or pork as the beef delivery from Spain had not arrived.
Antonin and Alix effortlessly conceived a new menu in just a few minutes at 4 PM for an 8 PM service. When I share this amazing feat with my French friends, usually an argument ensues. Try this amazing restaurant in Rognes, where the Chef proposes a new menu for each service!” Often, the reply I get is, So, the Chef changes his menu often! Mais non, tous les jours, tous les services ! (But no, every day, every service). As I have worked in restaurants, this daily, creative work can only happen with a close-knit, talented team.
Le Préau Chef Antonin Menu
Here is the menu, which I was present during the conception and returned to the restaurant later to dine:
Mercredi, 27 novembre – Wednesday, November 27
Amuse Buche:
Tartare de thon et rouges fruits
Tuna Tartare made with red fruit and served with a rice crisp
Entrees:
Noix de Saint Jacques bretonnes en carpaccio, combawa, mizuna, mousse de corail au gingembre
*Breton scallops, carpaccio- style, kaffir lime zest, mizuna (Japanese mustard greens), ginger and coral mousse
Ragout de seiche, stacci toscani (pâtes italiennes), huile de l’olive de pays, persillade, Parmesean 24 mois
Squid ragout, Stacci Toscani (Italian pasta), local olive oil, parsley, aged Parmesean 24 months
Plats/Main Courses:
Maigre de ligne, velouté et tombée d’épinards, chou fleur rôti, beurre blanc aux oeufs de saumon
*Filet of Meagre velouté and wilted spinach, roasted cauliflower, beurre blanc sauce served with salmon roe
Tapilla de porc libérique grillée, pommes de terre rôties, broccolis, sauce verte
Grilled pork loin, roasted potatoes, broccoli, green sauce
Fromage et Dessert /Cheese and Dessert:
Asiette de fromages: Saint Nectaire, Comté 18 mois, Stilton, jeunes pousses-banyuls
Plate of cheeses: Saint Nectaire, Comté – aged 18 months, Stilton, young shoots-Banyuls (French red wine vinegar)
Sablé breton, poire rôtie, siphon chocolat, glace vanille, noisettes du Piemont carmelisées
*Roasted pear on a sablé Breton pastry, chocolate siphon, vanilla ice cream, carmelized Piedmont hazelnuts
My Meal at Le Préau
I ordered the highlighted items (*) on the menu above.
Scallop carpaccio served with kaffir lime zest, mizuna (Japanese mustard greens), ginger and coral mousse was a truly inspired dish.
My second course was a filet of Meagre, spinach velouté, wilted spinach, roasted cauliflower, and beurre blanc sauce served with salmon roe. The spinach velouté brought all the flavours together.
Lastly, my third course was the roasted pear on a sablé Breton pastry, chocolate siphon, vanilla ice cream, and caramelized hazelnuts, a fantastic taste sensation with distinctive textures. Each course was skillfully created and plated.
Chapeau au Chef!
Book Your Table
For a truly memorable meal, visit Le Préau. Chef Wishart aspires to pursue a restaurant project in Aix-en-Provence that could become a Michelin-starred restaurant.
Le Préau is located at 1 Cour Saint Etienne, 13840 Rognes, listed in the Michelin Guide. Be sure to make reservations in advance. All diet restrictions can be accommodated with advance notice to the restaurant. Le Préau opened its doors in 2021, offering a creative and inventive menu.
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