Revealing the Secrets of Ice Production at Provence’s Glacières

Provence, known for its scorching summers, may not seem ideal for ice production. Yet, between 1650 and 1885, many ice houses (glacières) were ingeniously constructed in the region. This historical innovation, born out of necessity, is a testament to the resourcefulness and some royal assistance.

Chemin de Champ de Pruniers L’Agora 04100 Manosque ©Office de Tourisme et des Congrès du Pays de Manosque

Ice Production Provence’s Glacières

In the 17th century, when Provence was predominantly a poor region, ice was a luxury reserved for the wealthy. Making and preserving ice, already a common practice in other parts of France and Italy, was slowly adopted in Provence. This historical context adds to the story of ice production in the region.

Drawing of an Ice House ©Département des Bouches-du-Rhône

With ready access to water sources and the limestone massifs of Sainte-Baume, the Alpilles, Luberon, and the Vaucluse (Mont Ventoux and the Dentelles de Montmirail) providing shaded locations, the construction of ice houses (glacières) began. Encouraging the commercial production of ice, in 1642, King Louis XIII granted two Marseille merchants, Louis Roubaud and Pierre Roman, the exclusive right to construct ice houses—glacières.

Glacière du Pic de Bertagne ©Département des Bouches-du-Rhône

Near the Sainte-Baume massif, 20 glacières were constructed with stone structures covered to keep the underground section cool enough to preserve ice for up to two years. The process was not complicated but required back-breaking work. During the winter, when it can be frigid in the south, clay-lined reservoirs collected water from nearby streams, which froze and created a cold base. Once frozen, workers cut the ice into blocks, stored it in dry stone wells, and covered it with earth.

Glacière du Pic de Bertagne ©Département des Bouches-du-Rhône

Ice Donkeys

Before super highways and refrigerated trucks, ice transportation was by donkey caravan to urban centres like Marseille, Aix-en-Provence, and Toulon. These resilient animals, often carrying their loads through the night to best preserve the ice, arrived in the city centres in the early dawn hours. A testament to the hard work of both man and animal was instrumental in the success of the ice trade and of great historical significance to the region. It also began a culinary “love affair” with ice cream.

By the end of the 19th century, with rail lines from the Alps, the ice production at natural glacières was no longer cost-effective. Today, a few restored ice house buildings are near the Sainte-Baume massif and Manosque. If you are in Marseille’s 1st arrondissement, look for Rue de la Glace. Or enjoy an ice cream in the King’s honour at Le Glacier du Roi, place de Lenche in the (2nd arrondissement).

Carolyne Kauser-Abbott

With her camera and laptop close at hand, Carolyne has traded in her business suits for the world of freelance writing and blogging. Her first airplane ride at six months of age was her introduction to the exciting world of travel.

While in Provence, Carolyne can be found hiking with friends, riding the hills around the Alpilles or tackling Mont Ventoux. Her attachment to the region resonates in Perfectly Provence this digital magazine that she launched in 2014. This website is an opportunity to explore the best of the Mediterranean lifestyle (food & wine, places to stay, expat stories, books on the region, travel tips, real estate tips and more), through our contributors' articles.

Carolyne writes a food and travel blog Ginger and Nutmeg. Carolyne’s freelance articles can be found in Global Living Magazine, Avenue Magazine and City Palate (Published Travel Articles).